Wrench

I am doing two courses of copper treatment on all fish in addition to PraziPro and antibiotics.

Even if I had no fish to worry about I doubt I'd do 6 months. I haven't seen any evidence to support a theory that more than 12 weeks is beneficial. The corals and other inverts are doing fine in the main system. Some acros have become a little pale due to the lack of nutrients but overall they're ok. My biggest worry is the fish. Even 10 weeks is a long time for a fish to be housed in a relatively sterile, unnatural environment.

I plan to go 10, even that is going to be tough. I have four QT tanks going with all of my fish in them.

What's the recommended fallow period to eradicate ich?

So after running this pump for almost a week now the only complaint I have is the noise. It's got a nice hum to it running at about 50%.

You're welcome any time. Just text or call me. Too soon to tell how the corals will respond, but so far so good.

First impressions after a couple of days: Overall excellent material quality. The fit and finish is great, no cheap plastic. Everything fits tight and has a nice feel in the hand. A+ The controller sits in a nice holder which you can secure to any smooth, hard surface. It's easily removed from the cradle and easily snaps back into place. Once again, great quality and fit and finish. The controller is made of a rubberized plastic (like many cell phone cases) and just feels like a quality piece. The buttons have a nice, firm feel and the control dial is easy to operate and isn't sloppy. The electrical connections between all of the components are very tight. Between the controller and the pump is a threaded connection sealed with a rubber o-ring. Very nice. It wasn't an issue on my system but I could see that on larger tanks, and depending on location of your components, that the cables may be too short which may limit where you can place your controller. The user interface is very easy to use and intuitive. Another A+ Pump mounting is great. The magnets aren't too strong like previous pumps but they are more than adequate to secure the pump to the tank. My glass is 1/2" thick and I'm sure this would work on at least 5/8" if not more. I like the design of the magnets because they don't require fiddling around to get them lined up. Functionally they're perfect and once again fit and finish is great. I can't find anything wrong, another A+ Now onto the pump's performance! These things move some water! My tank is 60x36" and I can't see the need to crank this pump past 60%. I've been running it on constant speed mode and it creates a nice, even gyre which covers the entire footprint of the tank which is very impressive. The only downside, and I can't say I didn't expect this, is that the area directly in front of and below the pump lacks a great deal of flow. This is where I see there may be a need for two pumps opposing one another. The pump is made of two "cages", one left and one right. They can be aimed independently of one another to direct the flow in different directions. I may be able to eliminate most of the dead zone by playing around with adjusting the cages. Overall water flow is very even. My pump is currently set up to create a counterclockwise gyre. There's a large hammer coral on the bottom left of the tank and the polyps are blowing strongly from left to right. I can clearly see that water on the bottom half of the tank is being pushed through the caves and crevices of the rockwork. I have been unable to identify and dead spots. It's still too early to make a judgement but so far I'd give it an A.

PM sent to Mike and Matt.

That's the plan. Was going to try to alternate gyres using timers until the advanced controller comes out which hopefully will allow multiple pumps to sync. Have also thought about putting both on the back glass facing forward. Playing around with it this week to see how I like it.

Welcome anytime.

Does the tank have a rim around the bottom (like an AGA tank) or is it flat? If it's flat it needs to be on foam. Rimmed tanks should not be placed on foam because it can cause pressure points which will lead to premature failure.

Just a tease for now. I installed two of these on my 240g tank on Monday. WOW they're amazing! I'm thinking one may be enough. I will post some videos of them in action as soon as I get a chance.

I like the Coralife Luft pump. Ran it on an Ozotech for several trouble free years. My current setup is an Ozotech Poseidon which has a built-in pressure rated pump. I prefer this design.

If it died of starvation it would have been very skinny and obvious. Drip acclimation is good but we can't be sure that every link in the chain of custody took the care to do so properly. I wouldn't rule out the potential for cyanide poisioning or mishandling either. The bottom line is that if you acclimated it properly, placed it into a stable environment and it wasn't the victim of aggression then you did everything in your power. Chances are that it would have died even in QT.

Do you QT? Fish can live a month or more without eating so I doubt it starved to death. Death could have been caused by a number of things considering it's only been a week. Collection, handling, acclimation or general stress could all contribute. Some fish simply don't acclimate well to captivity.

Male laboutei wrasse Male lineatus Mystery wrasse Longfin/Social fairy wrasse Radiant wrasse Naoke wrasse

Yo Sel! Where you been hiding?!

Man, that is one badass looking stand!

1 1/2" square tubing, 1/8" wall thickness.

What fish do you plan to QT in a 20g? I've found that 30b and 40b tanks work well because the extra water volume helps with stability. For larger fish like tangs I use a 55g tank which helps keep the stress levels down. Medication can get costly though, which is the only downside. The larger tanks also work for multiple fish. A 20g would suffice if you're treating small fish.

LOL my two new favorite quotes: "I bet the Neanderthals thought they knew everything until they were taken over by Liberals." "... that is usually internal bleeding and the fish rarely, if ever recover and Obamacare won't save them. " Thanks for the laughs!

If the fish is treated for the proper amount of time and copper treatments are administered at the proper levels for the correct amount of time then there is no way for ich to make it into the display. The key that many people don't realize, and what leads to re-infestation of the DT, is that everything wet must be QT'd. Anything that's wet has the possiblity of introducing ich back to the system.

My point was that just because looks healthy that doesn't mean it's free of pathogens. It could be carrying any number of things that aren't visible to the naked eye or it could have a very mild case. These pathogens will remain in the system until a more succeptible fish or stressor is introduced, at which point it can wipe out an entire system. Internal parasites and gill infestations are prime examples as the fish will look 100% healthy on the outside. That's why the more reputable retailers and hobbyists treat all fish prophylactically. Additionally, it's very difficult to QT on a retail level and still remain competitive in the market. Let's assume that wholesale fish are truly quarantined properly. Once they enter the retailer's system all that QT goes out the window and IMO is unethical for the store to advertise these as QT'd fish. If you want it done right you've got to do it yourself.

I'll bite. Lets assume the OP takes your advice and drops his new acquisitions into the display tank with no QT or treatment. What if they're carrying a pathogen but not showing symptoms? Now that pathogen is inside the display tank and can and will infect new additions in the future whether they've been QT'd or not. I've followed this advice in the past and it cost me a lot of fish. I've QT'd quite a few sensitive species and don't feel that a properly set up and cycled QT tank is more stressful than any other tank transfer or introduction. It's certainly less risky and more ethical than dropping new additions into an established tank and putting all other livestock at risk.

I'd replace that rock with an air driven sponge filter. They make good biological filters in a QT tank and help with oxygenation and gas exchange.