monkiboy's 450g display + 250g fish room

[AlanM]

Also, if number 5 is adjustable between 8 and 15 inches, then it's setting the water level in the rest of the sump once you exceed 10.5 inches. 

 

Number 3 is only doing anything if the height of number 5 is between 8 and 10.5 inches. 

 

The highest point before the return pump sets the water level.

[AlanM]

Ah is number 4 for structural rigidity?  I just read Eric's post before mine. 

 

That makes sense that it isn't really a different chamber, just a way to support those 1.5" bulkheads and keep the whole thing from bowing out on the sides.   Anyway, the point about adjustable number 5 still stands.  It would only serve to adjust the water height in the center chamber a bit unless you're ok with the water height in the return section going way up as well if you increase it above 10.5 inches. 

 

I don't know if you need even need adjustable height for the center section given that your skimmer is external?  It doesn't hurt anything, but you probably won't mess with it much if ever once set up.  Those ABS screws in adjustable sump baffles seem to soak up water and are impossible to turn once installed anyway.   

 

It won't change the height in your return pump chamber either way since that's set by the total amount of water in the system and will be where your ATO sensor will go.  It's nice to have a relatively small volume of water in the return pump section because it makes the ATO more sensitive.

[monkiboy]

9 hours ago, howaboutme said:

I hate it, redo.  Just kidding. Well thought out, of course.

 

Love the videos, by the way, keep it coming.

thank you. 

videos are tough for me and a new form of content creation so I appreciate the support with it. I digest video better and it allows for more understanding for many so I will try to keep it coming.

 

 

8 hours ago, ArmyVetReefer said:

I need you to come and aquascape my new design! Looking good man!

have you posted up a build on here I can check out? Link me and if not, then post up and share the goodness man. We all want to see!

 

 

[monkiboy]

5 hours ago, WheresTheReef said:

What will go in the section between baffle 3 and 4? Have you considered combining it with the “skimmer” section to have more of an open sump feel? That would give a nice 30”x24” section that provides a ton of flexibility. Not sure if baffle 4 and its top brace are needed for structural reasons? If that section is a potential fuge if the sump is sold, then baffle 4 might need more height.

 

probably a frag rack. not sure. 

yes, it will have one lid for the section between three and five. currently design shows it as two lids. 

baffle four is for structural integrity, yes, you are right. 

good note on potential fuge. 

definitely concerned about potential to grow chaeto/keep nutrients up even with the large fish load i have planned. between the large skimmer but especially the efficiency of the mrc infinity/rollers in general removing food real time vs letting it break down, i have read and hear the water stay low in nutrients and one needs to add. the skimmer being oversized may have been a big oversight that turns into a co2 reducer, only. we shall see. 

if i run a fuge for export, i really like the pax bellum line utilizing a reactor to keep things neat and tidy and ultra efficient.

 

 

 

5 hours ago, AlanM said:

The sump layout looks really well thought out.  Panel number 6 seems redundant, but doesn't hurt anything and prevents food from the feeder from going back into the large chamber where you would put a fuge or reactors or whatever.  What is the space between 3 and 4 doing and what is the purpose of number 4 since it's pretty wide open?

 

Will you feed the external skimmer from a manifold coming off the return pump since you aren't drilling any holes in the sides?  I assume that's the plan.  Where will the return from the skimmer go?  Into one of the 1.5" bulkheads or into the 9" space between 3 and 4?

 

I like the bulkhead openings on the tops of the sump for the really clean install possibility, but I'd spend some time thinking about how you'd use them in practice.  I assume they'll all be facing down so the "inner" surface of the bulkhead faces up.  They don't need to be watertight connections since that top surface isn't holding water.  They're really just install points for piping to go through. 

 

For the Abyzz return pumps, will the bulkhead be facing down so you'll glue PVC into the bottom of the bulkhead and then the rest of the return plumbing will insert into the bulkhead?  I assume the Abyzz has a union on it's output?  If it has a union that will work great.  The plumbing lines will be nice and stable inside the sump because of the pipe coming down from the bulkhead and you'll swap it right out if you ever need to replace it. 

 

If you swap it for something else in the future you'll have to cut off the bulkhead after unscrewing it, but you'd do that without bulkheads anyway. So the bulkheads add a nice look and stability and also some extra rotational freedom when you're doing the install to get things lined up right.  You can do all of the in-sump plumbing in the sump independent of the rest of the plumbing job and have it ready to go to insert lines into the inner parts of the bulkheads which is a big benefit.  I talked myself into them I guess. 8)

thanks for the prompt reply my friend. 

i really don't like bubbles and adds a bit more rigidity to the build so that's baffle six.

answered above about the 9" section between baffle 3 and 4 - rigidity. 

yes, you got it on skimmer being fed from manifold. 

the mrc infinity has 4 - 2" intakes one of which will be from skimmer or perhaps that is redundant "cleaning" and it can go to one of the 4 intakes between panel 1 and 2.

 

on bulkheads, yes, some thought will need to be done as I am not sure I will have a ton of room to work with between top of the a400 and the bulkhead. 

 

i was thinking of custom bulkheads or just cleanly cutting much of it's length so that the bulkhead tapered/round/finished side could be mounted on top of sump with typical long end below with just enough length to fit a barb fitting and some silicone. i might even need to trim the barb spigot fitting if a400 is too tall. but want to get some silicone tubing if I can find in 2" for isolation. 

 

wow, the union. forgot about that off the pump but not a deal breaker with an internal pump. likely will have a true union valve coming off of sump? thought? no room for that above pump but I have to look at specs of pump again. 

 

yes, all pump and alignment is coming ready to go from builder based on CAD specs but need to figure out plumbing and where unions and if able to source 2" silicone tubing or just go hard. 

 

i will be using 2" flexible pvc all the out to reduce pressure and head in bends, through the UV (all the return water) until the tank upstairs and reduce to 1.5" to the four sea swirls. 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, AlanM said:

Also, if number 5 is adjustable between 8 and 15 inches, then it's setting the water level in the rest of the sump once you exceed 10.5 inches. 

 

Number 3 is only doing anything if the height of number 5 is between 8 and 10.5 inches. 

 

The highest point before the return pump sets the water level.

 

also very good catch - yes, that's accurate. panel 3 will be reduced, again unlikely to affect me, but IF i do choose I need a lower water level for some reason and just to future proof. 

 

 

1 hour ago, AlanM said:

Ah is number 4 for structural rigidity?  I just read Eric's post before mine. 

 

That makes sense that it isn't really a different chamber, just a way to support those 1.5" bulkheads and keep the whole thing from bowing out on the sides.   Anyway, the point about adjustable number 5 still stands.  It would only serve to adjust the water height in the center chamber a bit unless you're ok with the water height in the return section going way up as well if you increase it above 10.5 inches. 

 

I don't know if you need even need adjustable height for the center section given that your skimmer is external?  It doesn't hurt anything, but you probably won't mess with it much if ever once set up.  Those ABS screws in adjustable sump baffles seem to soak up water and are impossible to turn once installed anyway.   

 

It won't change the height in your return pump chamber either way since that's set by the total amount of water in the system and will be where your ATO sensor will go.  It's nice to have a relatively small volume of water in the return pump section because it makes the ATO more sensitive.

yes panel four is structural. 

 

right the adjustable baffle is only for future proofing. external skimmer, yes. 

will only potentially MAYBE need water height to have frag tanks covered but light is fully adjustable so I dont see any issues.

 

i dislike ABS/nylon screws very much so we are using titanium screws everywhere. super smooth and easy operation forever and no gnarled up wet fingers. 

 

even on all my reactors i use the slide-loc quick release levers - they are amazing.

have you seen them? - https://reefbuilders.com/2022/03/16/slide-loc-quick-release-lever-will-transform-reactor-maintenance/

 

yes, thank you for the reminder on small volume of water in return section for ATO sensor sensitivity. 

[AlanM]

1 hour ago, monkiboy said:

i dislike ABS/nylon screws very much so we are using titanium screws everywhere. super smooth and easy operation forever and no gnarled up wet fingers. 

 

That will be awesome.  The plastic ones are terrible.  I think I still have nerve damage in my right thumb from trying to grab one hard enough to turn it, heh.

 

I say pull the trigger on the sump.  It looks awesome.

[monkiboy]

1 hour ago, AlanM said:

 

I say pull the trigger on the sump.  It looks awesome.

and..... done!

[ArmyVetReefer]

On 4/22/2022 at 6:31 PM, monkiboy said:

thank you. 

videos are tough for me and a new form of content creation so I appreciate the support with it. I digest video better and it allows for more understanding for many so I will try to keep it coming.

 

 

have you posted up a build on here I can check out? Link me and if not, then post up and share the goodness man. We all want to see!

 

 

Not yet man. I finished my new scape tonight and I’ll be cementing tomorrow most likely. 

[monkiboy]

8 hours ago, ArmyVetReefer said:

Not yet man. I finished my new scape tonight and I’ll be cementing tomorrow most likely. 

Get a build thread going and share the process. Just toss some photos up and it’ll help you stay accountable and inspire ideas of your own and in other members. 
best of luck finishing the scape!

[cpeguero]

This looks awesome! Eager to see how the a400’s work. I have a reeflo hammerhead running my system from my basement fish room to main floor display. Works great, but would love to have something a bit quieter…. Haven’t talked myself (or my wife) into spending that money though.

I saw you’re using 2” flex pvc. Sounds great. If you need some 1.5”, I have a bunch left over from my build. Have it listed somewhere on the forum, but can let it go for cheap. It’s taking up space in my garage now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[monkiboy]

Made some holes… three for bean drains going from overflow straight down to filtration room in basement and one for conduit to run extensions of vortech drivers and other things that will be mounted on filtration room equipment panel and two more for two returns from UV to sea swirls. 

[monkiboy]

On 4/24/2022 at 8:36 AM, cpeguero said:

This looks awesome! Eager to see how the a400’s work. I have a reeflo hammerhead running my system from my basement fish room to main floor display. Works great, but would love to have something a bit quieter…. Haven’t talked myself (or my wife) into spending that money though.

I saw you’re using 2” flex pvc. Sounds great. If you need some 1.5”, I have a bunch left over from my build. Have it listed somewhere on the forum, but can let it go for cheap. It’s taking up space in my garage now

ok, will definitely keep it in mind - thank you!

[scott711]

finally getting around to check out the thread, but of course my work blocks the pictures. 

 

The biggest thing I can recommend is make sure whatever you do, create enough room for moving things around and removing equipment. You don't want to be cursing yourself for not leaving enough room to remove a skimmer cup, or pump and it gets stuck. 

 

Make sure you add unions to piping - makes it easier for repairs

 

LOTS of ventilation - humidity/salt= corrosion. 

 

Always stick to the KISS method (keep it simple). The easier something is to do, the more likely you are going to do it. 

 

I know I have mentioned the  reef brite XHOs. I would forgo those and get something different (if price is a concern). There are comparable LED's that are a lot less money.

 

Oh- for the sand bed, I did an mixture of sand and epoxy to create a life like sand bed. The benefit is once you place the rocks in the bed (has to be done at the same time), there won't be any places for detritus to get trapped. You can always add more sand to create a bed for wrasses to bury into.

[YHSublime]

On 4/22/2022 at 9:03 PM, AlanM said:

 

That will be awesome.  The plastic ones are terrible.  I think I still have nerve damage in my right thumb from trying to grab one hard enough to turn it, heh.

 

I started using pliers at one stage on these. I have lots of plastic threads that need to be tapped out on a various pieces of equipment. 

 

On 4/24/2022 at 11:14 PM, monkiboy said:

Made some holes… three for bean drains going from overflow straight down to filtration room in basement and one for conduit to run extensions of vortech drivers and other things that will be mounted on filtration room equipment panel and two more for two returns from UV to sea swirls. 

 

I don't know why, but holes in the floor feels like the ultimate commitment. Steady forward!

[monkiboy]

7 hours ago, scott711 said:

finally getting around to check out the thread, but of course my work blocks the pictures. 

 

The biggest thing I can recommend is make sure whatever you do, create enough room for moving things around and removing equipment. You don't want to be cursing yourself for not leaving enough room to remove a skimmer cup, or pump and it gets stuck. 

 

Make sure you add unions to piping - makes it easier for repairs

 

LOTS of ventilation - humidity/salt= corrosion. 

 

Always stick to the KISS method (keep it simple). The easier something is to do, the more likely you are going to do it. 

 

I know I have mentioned the  reef brite XHOs. I would forgo those and get something different (if price is a concern). There are comparable LED's that are a lot less money.

 

Oh- for the sand bed, I did an mixture of sand and epoxy to create a life like sand bed. The benefit is once you place the rocks in the bed (has to be done at the same time), there won't be any places for detritus to get trapped. You can always add more sand to create a bed for wrasses to bury into.

Thank you for checking in, Scott!

 

I think I have all my bases above covered except for the sand bed. I kind of wish I had done something like that to be able to keep all the high flow with a majority of the sand bed in epoxy and small areas shielded by structures sans epoxy for the wrasses. 

 

I worried that my wrasses in the larger footprint might not find it before doing too much damage to their mouths and secondary bacterial/physical damage and worry about sufficient surface area for the nitrifiers but who knows. too late for me any way as everything is wet and cycled haha!

[monkiboy]

6 hours ago, YHSublime said:

 

I don't know why, but holes in the floor feels like the ultimate commitment. Steady forward!

because it's pretty darn serious. got to get plumbing going already. working on filtration room now.

 

working on panels for equipment and deciding how crazy I want to get. the more fun I can make the set up the more likely I am to want to do it. but that means $texas. we shall see. 

 

more photos coming soon.

[monkiboy]

custom sump is cut and going together.... 

[Salty Rambler]

Looking good! Have you planned out the aquascape yet?

[Salty Rambler]

1 minute ago, Salty Rambler said:

Looking good! Have you planned out the aquascape yet?

Gah! My device didn't load the whole thread at first, so I missed your aquascape posts -- but I stand by the looking good comment.

[monkiboy]

1 hour ago, Salty Rambler said:

Gah! My device didn't load the whole thread at first, so I missed your aquascape posts -- but I stand by the looking good comment.

Thank you so much. Really appreciate it!

[monkiboy]

sump is coming together...

 

[YHSublime]

I think your sump is bigger than my new display. Excellent. 

[monkiboy]

5 minutes ago, YHSublime said:

I think your sump is bigger than my new display. Excellent. 

I think so. right around 160 gallons or so. i wanted space for working around and volume. 

[monkiboy]

does anyone have a system that is very well integrated with neptune products and have a list of all the neptune products in use on their system they could share?

 

I need to buy a whole new system and peripherals of neptune gear as I gave away, sold, donated all I had in the last two years and don't want to just go willy nilly buying everything but know I will miss some awesome efficiencies and uses if I can't review how this stuff is used outside of the main components. 

 

Thank you!

[monkiboy]

starting to lay out the wire management wall...

 

[monkiboy]

more sump progress...goodness this thing is beautiful...