Scubaguy January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 (edited) Built a stand that is bar height.. Tank and Sump will be delivered Mid Feb so i am in the process of getting everything set up and ready. Stand is 104" x 30" Tank is 96" x 24" x 24" Sump is 64" x 20" x 20" Thoughts?? Edited January 19, 2015 by Scubaguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 Will you be able to remove your skimmer cup and all items in your sump comfortably? Will you have to slide your sump down the side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 19, 2015 Author Share January 19, 2015 (edited) Will you be able to remove your skimmer cup and all items in your sump comfortably? Will you have to slide your sump down the side? Hey .. Yes.. The sump will have to be slid down one of the sides then closed up. One of the ends will be a panel for the electronics.. facing outwards.. from the floor inside to the top is 32 1/2 inches.. I hope i have enough space to clean the skimmer cup.. should be a few inches of wiggle room. Im going to prime the inside tonight.. and mount some LED rope lighting this week.. Then, I will be at a stand still till the sump and tank is delivered. till then Im looking at boxes from BRS in the corner piling up.. Edited January 19, 2015 by Scubaguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 I like full access to my sump, anything less is a pain for the life of the tank, so glad you're ok with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 19, 2015 Author Share January 19, 2015 I like full access to my sump, anything less is a pain for the life of the tank, so glad you're ok with it! Will have four doors in the front that will open for access.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 I would just mock up the sump inside the stand and make sure you can get to everything as Isaac said. The more posts in the way the more detailed the planning needs to be. It is more out of convenience and function. IMO you may want to reconsider the carpet under the tank stand. Now would be a great time to remove the carpet and add tile so when you spill (yes when, not if) you are able to clean it up a little easier. If you where able to frame the tile in with some type of threshold it would also give you a slight dam to keep the water on the tile. Add the tile 1'-2'+/- past the stand as a splash zone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 I like that you over built the dim. of the stand so you have places to put items, like a counter Another consideration would be to build a "tray" inside the bottom of the sump, and or line it with pond material, or caulk the heck out of the joints so any water that spills in the stand will stay in the stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCReefer1964 January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 (edited) I like that you over built the dim. of the stand so you have places to put items, like a counter Another consideration would be to build a "tray" inside the bottom of the sump, and or line it with pond material, or caulk the heck out of the joints so any water that spills in the stand will stay in the stand.+1 on the rolling tray. Love my PVC tray in my DSA stand. Edited January 19, 2015 by DCReefer1964 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 19, 2015 Author Share January 19, 2015 I like that you over built the dim. of the stand so you have places to put items, like a counter Another consideration would be to build a "tray" inside the bottom of the sump, and or line it with pond material, or caulk the heck out of the joints so any water that spills in the stand will stay in the stand. I was thinking about lining the entire bottom of the sump. I did buy the leak detection module as well for the APEX. Since I have a month of waiting, You may have talked me into it .. as a precaution.. Will give me something to do this weekend. after the meeting of course.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 I was thinking about lining the entire bottom of the sump. I did buy the leak detection module as well for the APEX. Since I have a month of waiting, You may have talked me into it .. as a precaution.. Will give me something to do this weekend. after the meeting of course.. The Apex would be a great way to tell you it is leaking.........The liner will actual help it from becoming a flood that you know about, but can't do anything about when you are not home. Which is when all floods happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 19, 2015 Author Share January 19, 2015 The Apex would be a great way to tell you it is leaking.........The liner will actual help it from becoming a flood that you know about, but can't do anything about when you are not home. Which is when all floods happen. Of course.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 following along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 I'd ditch the center brace for ease of access Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Ford January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 Yep. Youll thank yourself down the road. Looks solid! I'd ditch the center brace for ease of access Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos January 19, 2015 Share January 19, 2015 Yep. Youll thank yourself down the road. Looks solid! I didn't want to say anything since he already built it. But now would be better then later. Great craftsmanship. Noticed the counter sunk screws on all corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangspeed January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 I'm not a fan of using 4x4 nor the way the top braces are relying on screw shear strength. Sorry to be the downer. -- Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L8 2 RISE January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 Warren said exactly what I was thinking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottiep33 January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 I just built a similar stand yesterday for my 55 Gallon. I also work construction and we can use 2x4s to support entire houses. That being said, it is incredibly difficult to crush a 2x4 so use that to your advantage. Looks great, and I'm sure it will work just fine, but for all that weight on the screws could effect longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PK3 January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 Wangspeed and L8 2 Rise are exactly right. It's not always just about the size of the wood, but the way they are put together such that the load is transferred properly down to the ground. I think you might be alright given that you have 5 4x4 posts running the length; however, I'd be nervous about this design with how much weight will be on top of it. And regarding the suggestions to ditch the center post, I would suggest the same but only if the 2x6's (or 2x8s?) were sitting on top of the posts, not under the current construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 you could also just put a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 ply on top and add ALOT of stability (basicaly skin the top) and drill holes as necessary for plumbing.....would also help distribute the weight on the legs agree with the 2x6 or 8s but i think you would be fine loosing 1 or so legs for the sump though im still a little confused at how the legs tie into the base Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangspeed January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 Here's one to contrast against. Another 8 ft tank stand using well known RocketEngineer's (yeah, actual rocket engineer for NASA) plans. If you look in the thread, there are tons of examples, and a whole mess load of math to optimize open span lengths. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13191174&postcount=689 I can't find pics of the completed frame, but that picture should give you some ideas. He still has to put the front-to-back spans and cap in place in this picture. I think it might be missing 4 2x4 in the very corners that don't take load, but help stability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyGeos January 20, 2015 Share January 20, 2015 I don't see where he says if the tank is glass or acrylic (in this thread), which matters. Glass needs to be supported on the outside edge. Acrylic need a perfectly level surface with a neoprene or rubber cushion. My go to is engineered lumber (PSL), larger spans, open spaces, stronger then wood. You know he is going to have to knee on the top when he works on it, might as well make it strong enough to stand on that 6" shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 20, 2015 Author Share January 20, 2015 Here is the stand.. I did add the 3/4 board to the top.. Just forgot to add the picture to the original thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 20, 2015 Author Share January 20, 2015 I'd ditch the center brace for ease of access I thought about that.. but left it for the support.. .. the doors are 24 by 31.. pretty big openings. the counter is 41 inches high. Now im re-thinking it.. crap..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaguy January 20, 2015 Author Share January 20, 2015 (edited) I don't see where he says if the tank is glass or acrylic (in this thread), which matters. Glass needs to be supported on the outside edge. Acrylic need a perfectly level surface with a neoprene or rubber cushion. My go to is engineered lumber (PSL), larger spans, open spaces, stronger then wood. You know he is going to have to knee on the top when he works on it, might as well make it strong enough to stand on that 6" shelf. The tank is glass. The counter top is level all the way around. Edited January 20, 2015 by Scubaguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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