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Plumbing thought, want to bounce some ideas


YHSublime

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So recently I picked up a Peacock Mantis. Meet Rupert:

 

 

As tempted as I am to throw it in my display, I want to take precautions and actually give it a bit more space, just so I don't end up keeping it in my sectioned off sump area. I have some ideas that would bring a 20 or 30 gallon right about eye level by the couch, and plumbed into my current system, score.

 

My system is setup like this:

 

photo1_zps9aa8ce0b.jpg

 

Essentially the right overflow has two drains, the left has one drain, which is plumbed into one of the drains from the right, resulting in two drains into my sump. On the right, there is only one return, run off a check valve, right by the sump.

 

What I would like to do is this, does it make sense?

 

photo2_zps741b716d.jpg

 

If I build a stand above my sump, I can place "X" size tank on it, and on the right side I can drill and add a bulkhead at the bottom. I split the return pump into the DT, and have it pump tank "X" up with water (possibly adding another check valve.) On the other end of the tank, I add a bulkhead at the top, this connects back down into one of the other drains, in turn, pumping all the water that goes through my sump up into tank "X" and back down into the sump again, while it also cycles back into the DT.

 

Now I know you're looking at it thinking it would make more sense to run the return line high, and let gravity do the work on the drain side. however, if my pump cuts, that means no more water pumping in, and it all drains out, killing all inhabitants.

 

So these are just a few quick thoughts, but I wanted to see what the more experienced had to say. I'm trying to keep this as clean as possible, because it is visible, so keep that restriction in mind!

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Just a question, but why not have a separate feed pump and drain system for the "X" tank?  In my setup I basically have two totally separate tanks utilizing the same sump.  In the setup you've created in the second pic, you would be bleeding off gph from your display tank which could adversely affect your DT i.e. flow/head pressure.  Now I personally haven't seen your tank so I'm not sure what physical constraints you have, but that's my two cents.  Looking forward to how it turns out!

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I agree with Swimboy on using a separate pump for the second tank.  Other thoughts are that both the return and the drain lines should be high.  You never want to put a hole lower down on the tank for anything other than an overflow box or a closed loop.  When the pump shuts off you'll lose all of that water into the sump.  Even with a check valve, check valves ALWAYS fail.  

 

 

On the drain line, I don't like connecting drain lines together.  In order to be truly redundant and effective, they should be plumbed completely separate all the way to the sump.  By putting two drains into one pipe, you make it possible for one snail or fish to clog two drains.  You also cut the amount of flow that will be able to move through the overflow.

 

Just my .02

Edited by L8 2 RISE
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Just a question, but why not have a separate feed pump and drain system for the "X" tank?  In my setup I basically have two totally separate tanks utilizing the same sump.  In the setup you've created in the second pic, you would be bleeding off gph from your display tank which could adversely affect your DT i.e. flow/head pressure.  Now I personally haven't seen your tank so I'm not sure what physical constraints you have, but that's my two cents.  Looking forward to how it turns out!

 

That's a great idea, guess I was trying to keep from utilizing another pump in my sump, but it makes the most sense I suppose.

 

I agree with Swimboy on using a separate pump for the second tank.  Other thoughts are that both the return and the drain lines should be high.  You never want to put a hole lower down on the tank for anything other than an overflow box or a closed loop.  When the pump shuts off you'll lose all of that water into the sump.  Even with a check valve, check valves ALWAYS fail.  

 

 

On the drain line, I don't like connecting drain lines together.  In order to be truly redundant and effective, they should be plumbed completely separate all the way to the sump.  By putting two drains into one pipe, you make it possible for one snail or fish to clog two drains.  You also cut the amount of flow that will be able to move through the overflow.

 

Just my .02

 

 

+1 on the check valves and the drains.  one d*mn snail could really ruin your day for both tanks.

 

Got it, so separate pump, and separate plumbing, just above the sump.

 

+1 on separate pump if possible definitely both drain and return high. Any particular reason you were looking for it to be mounted low?

 

I wanted it mounted low so it was viewable from the couch level (my DT is actually really low as well, like from the couch level.)

 

Or you could also go with a nice sleek all-in-one!

 

I really would like to use the water, and equipment from my DT. I don't want to have to setup a whole new system.

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i would think you could take one of those drain pipes and have it feed the mantis tank. ...as long as the intake of the drain is higher than the tank it should still syphon into the mantis tank...that would save you a pump....then just make sure the mantis tank overflow can handle the water plus some...

 

aka if the drain entry point on the right side of your schematic is higher than the mantis tanks top, you should be able to route one or both of them up and over the mantis tank since the water will still be flowing down.....i would put a T and some unions so the tank can be taken offline and some ballvalves to shut off water flow if needs be etc.

so it would just be plumbing work....i could be wrong

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i would think you could take one of those drain pipes and have it feed the mantis tank. ...as long as the intake of the drain is higher than the tank it should still syphon into the mantis tank...that would save you a pump....then just make sure the mantis tank overflow can handle the water plus some...

 

aka if the drain entry point on the right side of your schematic is higher than the mantis tanks top, you should be able to route one or both of them up and over the mantis tank since the water will still be flowing down.....i would put a T and some unions so the tank can be taken offline and some ballvalves to shut off water flow if needs be etc.

so it would just be plumbing work....i could be wrong

 

Almost had it right. Unfortunately, it will sit higher than the drains, the DT is low already, and tank "X" will be at the same level as the DT, most likely.

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what about the nano you have? why not utilize that one? Is there a reason you want to add another tank to main system?

 

The nano is too small. Adding another tank to the main system will allow me to use all the equipment on two tanks (one room ;))

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I wanted it mounted low so it was viewable from the couch level (my DT is actually really low as well, like from the couch level.)

 

 

I think he was asking why you want to put the hole so low in the tank (the one on the right side)?  At least that's what I was asking...  Is there any reason you wanted to do that?

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i agree with most of the earlier advice but weren't you considering upgrading your return anyway. if you're sticking with your current design then why not upgrade that pump now, run a manifold like you said you wanted, remove all those other pumps while you're at it and run the mantis tank off the manifold as well and keep the display flow unchanged or increase it.

 

plan and assume that the check valve will fail. those rubber flapper ones fail exponentially more than the george fisher wye piston style but both should be planned around as suggested above with a higher return as possible with the sump being able to take in the extra water volume. can it currently and will it take the extra tank's water once plumbed in assuming the check will fail?

 

in regards to the design, i can't tell exactly but maintenance on the sump looks not fun. please remember to allow sufficient height for skimmer cup removal and installation with ease, siphoning detritus out, changing filter socks, maintenance on pumps, cultivating cheato, you need to be able to get a hose comfortable in their and move around, likely.

 

good luck and keep us posted!

Edited by monkiboy
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I think he was asking why you want to put the hole so low in the tank (the one on the right side)?  At least that's what I was asking...  Is there any reason you wanted to do that?

 

Yes, at the time, I thought it would be good idea to use with a check valve in order to fill the tank up. My thoughts were as the water pushes in, it pushes out on the other end. I was considering a check valve a fail safe as well.

 

I don't have much experience with plumbing, which is why this post is up, a lot of you have way better, and easier solutions to my query.

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Don't worry, you can pay us in frags!!!  :tongue: :clap:

 

Haha, I have to grow them out first, I'm playing catch up!

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  • 1 month later...

I have opted to place a 20 gallon on top of the sump, with a drain and return down into the first chamber of my sump. I will feed off a mag 5. Looking for overflow boxes for a 20 gallon. Or considering DIY with glass.

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Maybe just drill a couple 1" bulkheads and then stick a couple street elbows in them with screens on them?  Then you can tilt them to set the water level too.  If you want it to be quieter you can drill the elbow on the outside of the tank and put a piece of tube in it like the glassholes overflows use.

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Maybe just drill a couple 1" bulkheads and then stick a couple street elbows in them with screens on them?  Then you can tilt them to set the water level too.  If you want it to be quieter you can drill the elbow on the outside of the tank and put a piece of tube in it like the glassholes overflows use.

 

I was thinking about that. Just a rigged upside down 90 degree elbow. There wont be much to clog it, and it is the poor mans route. I also had some questions for you about the stand I'm building and integrity of it. because of space on the side of the sump against the wall, I was planning on using a sheet of plywood on that side connected into a bottom front brace, a top front brace, and then a back top brace, all against a 2x4 square on the other side. I'll try and get a picture up to see if that will make better sense.

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I should come see your setup and bring some 80/20 and a hacksaw with me.  We could get something nice over that sump to hold Rupert's new home and you could stick some paneling to the front of it with a magnet and call it done without much fuss.

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I should come see your setup and bring some 80/20 and a hacksaw with me.  We could get something nice over that sump to hold Rupert's new home and you could stick some paneling to the front of it with a magnet and call it done without much fuss.

 

I know it should be super easy, and my plan is to throw a nicely done magnetic paneling to the front, I've worked myself into a corner (quite literally) with the space limitations. I plan on putting a sheet of plywood over the top of that structure on the top, and then just drill 2 holes for the drain and return to run through into the sump, and be done with it. If you can get the time to be around this way you're more than welcome.

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