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Acrylic Work


Mattiejay6

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So I have been reading some Acrylic 101 threads between reef central and reef 2 reef and I think I want to make my own 2 part dosing containers and my own ATO tank.. Does anyone here have any advice, like your favorite source for ordering the acrylic from?

 

It seems like its actually not that complicated and should be a fun project!

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Well, from what I've read, I would recommend that you try something small first......like a lookdown box or something like that.  Then move up to something a little bigger.  I would ask Adam from Artfully Acrylic.  He seems to know what he's doing! :biggrin:

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sounds like you are covering all the bases with the research.  I made sure I read everything I needed to know before gathering all of the necessary tools.  You'll need a table saw with a high tooth count blade for acrylic, a good router for edging.  You can get away with the razor blade method for doing your edges, as long as its a smaller size box that you are making, but since my end game for learning how to do this was a 100gal 8' long frag tank, I opted for the router.  and most importantly, get scraps for practice, you'll want to practice the pins method a few times before "going for it". 

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I would start with something that is not expected to hold water first and move up from there. 

 

I made an acrylic box for a fish trap.  Based on those results, I stopped there... :unsure:

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Thank you all for the advice! If I tried to clean the edges with no router what's the sanding / planer recommendation?

 

I will probably order precut... But I will probably end up getting a router.. I've always used my dremel and dremel trip for routing so never needed a dedicated one... But I like the idea of playing around with this.. It's finicky and requires practice but not overly complicated!

 

The reef central thread is crazy with info!

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Thank you all for the advice! If I tried to clean the edges with no router what's the sanding / planer recommendation?

 

I will probably order precut... But I will probably end up getting a router.. I've always used my dremel and dremel trip for routing so never needed a dedicated one... But I like the idea of playing around with this.. It's finicky and requires practice but not overly complicated!

 

The reef central thread is crazy with info!

a planer I here is better for edges than a router, but way more expensive.  Just CL yourself a decent router, and google good router bits for acrylic.  I tend to forget details like router bit types after I've made my purchase...

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This is the probably the best instructional video I have seen on buuilding an acrylic tank.

 

 

Hope it helps you too.

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Oh ya, the final... and most important thing I learned was that you need an EXTREMELY flat surface to work on.  Obviously if you are making smaller things its not so important.  But if you are making 4' to 6' tanks, It makes things much easier.

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This is the probably the best instructional video I have seen on buuilding an acrylic tank.

 

 

Hope it helps you too.

 

 

Rubbish.  I'm glad you didn't try this yourself Enkay and that you had me build your tank for you instead ;)  For large display tanks, the methods used in this guys video set will result in a generous helping of bubbles in your seams (looks ugly), but more importantly....his method doesn't produce a very strong bond between the panels (not enough contact time and not 100% solvent coverage).  That can be risky down the line.  For much smaller tanks like a small sump or an ATO Box these methods will almost certainly work if you put in the efforts to get the pieces all right.

 

If you want cleaner and much stronger seams then as OhaverD said, pins method is your best route when using a solvent based bonding process.

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Well, from what I've read, I would recommend that you try something small first......like a lookdown box or something like that.  Then move up to something a little bigger.  I would ask Adam from Artfully Acrylic.  He seems to know what he's doing! :biggrin:

 

Thanks Steve =).  You better hope I know what I'm doing....your basement floor depends on it ;).

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Rubbish.  I'm glad you didn't try this yourself Enkay and that you had me build your tank for you instead ;)  For large display tanks, the methods used in this guys video set will result in a generous helping of bubbles in your seams (looks ugly), but more importantly....his method doesn't produce a very strong bond between the panels (not enough contact time and not 100% solvent coverage).  That can be risky down the line.  For much smaller tanks like a small sump or an ATO Box these methods will almost certainly work if you put in the efforts to get the pieces all right.

 

If you want cleaner and much stronger seams then as OhaverD said, pins method is your best route when using a solvent based bonding process.

Yes and as someone who has had you (Adam) build me a sump, and have also gone through the learning process of it (just for fun mostly).  I will always just recommend that someone goes to Adam, rather than learn how to do it themselves lol.  Its too much time, effort, and skill, not to mention the countless dollars it takes to aquire the proper tools.  But that being said, it was fun learning how to do it.

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Overall, it seems like an informative series, though.

 

From discussions that I've had with Naga (Jeff) in the past, the seams on larger tanks such as this one really require more solvent soak time to soften up the acrylic before bringing the two pieces together. He uses two techniques for these bigger tanks: The first is the pin method which he uses to keep the two acrylic panels separate and to flow in a little more solvent. The second is to slightly alter the chemistry of the solvent so that it evaporates a little slower and gives him more time to work. The capillary method shown here (as I understood it) doesn't draw in much solvent which, in turn, doesn't soften much of the acrylic and may compromise the joint integrity some because you think you're getting a uniformly solid joint and it's possible that you won't. Adam's post seems to imply the same.

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No way was I going to try and build a 120 gal tank myself. Maybe I will try my hand at a 12 gal but I would rather leave the heavy lifting to the pros when it comes to that.

 

 

Rubbish.  I'm glad you didn't try this yourself Enkay and that you had me build your tank for you instead ;)  For large display tanks, the methods used in this guys video set will result in a generous helping of bubbles in your seams (looks ugly), but more importantly....his method doesn't produce a very strong bond between the panels (not enough contact time and not 100% solvent coverage).  That can be risky down the line.  For much smaller tanks like a small sump or an ATO Box these methods will almost certainly work if you put in the efforts to get the pieces all right.

 

If you want cleaner and much stronger seams then as OhaverD said, pins method is your best route when using a solvent based bonding process.

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