Mattiejay6

way to go!!!

I was wondering the same thing… dang. However last I checked it was a ghost town on that site.

Is there a discount code?

you could use a piece of flat ceramic tile as well..

You should not need a permit for this project. Unless the city has some weird rule. I would avoid the sump crock and utilize the method you have drawn. (No worries about failure and much less cost) It will def suck getting around your HVAC equipment, but since you have the appropriate drop in drainage line, seems like the better path to take. The studor vent would be a much easier option and less plumbing to run, so I would vote for that.

Nope! They are easy! 5g bucket, air stone. You probably already have the routine down from the other cultures.

Look up vossen aquatics larval trap

Oh my! I want one of those!! Wow

Haha tung and chris Tran got awesome tanks! love the bounce blasto!

yup.. they disappear.. haven't seen a yellow watchman in awhile either

I received mine and really love the concept! my only gripe is I wish the 3d printing was a little cleaner.. inside my food storage area, there is alot of loose filament.. just bugs my OCD

Gryphon all the way!

looks great to me!!! good job!!!

Awesome! Welcome!!!

Tropic eden reef flakes and or carib sea Fiji pink are usually the most used sand. tunze ATO is good. Nice choice

Found an interested DIY over at Reef2Reef some on here might be interested in trying! https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-auto-frozen-food-feeder.753039/

Welcome back!!

@epleeds can offer really good advice on lights!

Welcome! Nice tank!! 1.) can’t help ya on that.. never used those lights and haven’t seen them in awhile. 2.) problem with using water from tap is chemicals such as Chlorimines, and second is TDS. You can remedy the chloramines with a product like seachem prime. The TDS well.. probably slowly decrease it with water changes when you start using RODI water. This will lead to algae problems. 3.) I recommend the Avast ATO, or Tunze Osmolator. 4) I like ordering from Marco Rocks or Reef Cleaners. Google them. 5.) you should look into getting a protein skimmer. If you are a member of WAMAS there is some for sale in their like a NYOS 120 that would be great for your set up!

Welcome!! Have fun!!!

How did it go with the build?

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cheap-tiny-effective-pico-nano-algae-and-media-reactors-now-available.748632/ Anyone with an AIO tank looking for a cool HOB style reactor or a chaeto reactor, this post was put up today over on reef2reef and seems like a pretty awesome gadget! I have not used one personally, but seems to be the tried and true reactor style in a sleek form factor.

It is Ich on both fish.

A RODI unit and its component are based off your water supply. Are you on a well or city water etc.. Do they treat the city water with certain chemicals etc.. below is a good breakdown of the BRS RODI units. 4 Stage Value RO/DI Systems - Perfect for city water that is treated with low amounts of chlorine, or well water with very minimal contaminants. Four stage RODI systems are a great solution if you only connect your RODI system temporarily or have little space to dedicate to storing a RODI system. 5 Stage Premium RO/DI Systems - Our most popular systems handle common impurities found in well water along with most types of city water treated with chlorine including small amounts of chloramines. 6 Stage Deluxe RO/DI Systems - If you are not sure what is in your water, or it contains excessive amounts of TDS or hard to remove contaminants like chloramines, phosphates, nitrates, silicates, etc. The BRS 6 Stage systems are designed to effectively treat any water your home may have prior to using it in your aquarium. The Dual DI stage helps with the hard to remove ions like ammonia, phosphates, silicates, etc. 7 Stage Pro RO/DI Systems - Perfect for almost any water condition, but if you have contaminants that use excessive amounts of DI resin, the 7 Stage RODI system is the ideal choice. It uses cation and anion single bed resins that give you added control and cost savings over traditionally used mixed bed resins. Most water supplies tend to exhaust either the positively or negatively charged resin more quickly than the other, and by separating the standard mixed bed resin into single beds, you are no longer throwing away good deionization resin. Here is the link to the 4 stage unit which may be a great place for you to start. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html Also in terms of a mixing station, a 20g Brute trash can is a great place to start with a first time mixing station. Also fairly cheap for less than $30 and you can get a wheel dolly for it too.