Question about ATO

[howaboutme]

I'm doing some research on ATO's and looking at your product. I have a few questions. I currently have a 29 standard w/ no sump that I'm starting out with. I want to have an ATO for it. I do plan on a future, bigger tank w/ a sump in the future. I want to buy 1 ATO and not go backwards but add on to it as necessary. With that said:

 

- Can you tell me the dimensions of the magnet mount (standard) and what clearance you need for it to work. The reason I ask is because my current tank has that black top trim that you see on most tanks. It returns in to the tank for some small dimension and because DT water line is usually pretty close to the top, I'm concerned about room. Can the pressure tube work with minimal distance between the water line and the lip, assuming the magnet is mounted just below the black trim and all tubing can securetly wrap around the trim? I wonder if I need to lower my water line?

 

(At this time, I'm not interested in the nano because I want to use this same system for my next w/ sump build but may reconsider if dimensions don't line up.)

 

- Since I don't have a controller and don't plan on having one until the next build, do you sell the digital outputs separately since I will only be buying one w/ a standard pump outlet first?

 

- I've heard that F & F sells your products. Is this still true? I'd like to see an ATO in person.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Incredible Corals]

I'm putting an Avast ATO on a sump tonight. You are welcome to come by and check it out and take some measurements to see if it will clear the black trim. Highly recommend their ATO. It’s the only one I trust on our tanks.

 

I have a couple standard tanks with black trim we can use to see if it would clear your tank.

[howaboutme]

I'm putting an Avast ATO on a sump tonight. You are welcome to come by and check it out and take some measurements to see if it will clear the black trim. Highly recommend their ATO. It’s the only one I trust on our tanks.

 

I have a couple standard tanks with black trim we can use to see if it would clear your tank.

 

I'd love to take a look and I still have yet to step foot into your place. It's on my list, though family is keeping me busy these weekends. Not enough weekends, will need to switch to 4 day on, 3 day off work weeks in the future. I'll try on Sunday, if not then maybe next Sat. It would be super helpful to see it in action. I appreciate the offer.

[ctenophore]

Hi Jack

 

It seems that Tom covered all your questions perfectly in the other thread

 

There is currently no way to convert a standard switchbox to a digital output version; the two are very different inside.

 

I use a digital version on this little 29gal nano tank. There is no sump, so the sensor sits just under the frame exactly as you are describing. I will try to get a photo but the magnet holder is a very old model, one of the first we ever built. But it would work exactly the same in your case, and if you did the hole-drilling method that Tom described, you can keep the water level a bit higher.

[howaboutme]

Hi,

 

Re: The digital output and switch boxes.

 

I was asking if you sell (or will eventually sell) the digital output devices separately for when I need it? I kind of figured that the switch box cannot be changed into a digital output. Your website doesn't have the digital output devices for sale separately. It sounds like all I would have to do is switch out the switch box w/ a digital output to get it to work w/ a controller? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Re: the sensor:

 

Yes, a picture would be informative, though I will try to head to Incredible Corals sometime in the near future to view your ATO since they offered. Regardless of that, does F&F carry your products?

 

Thanks again!

[armydoc]

You may want to consider keeping the older non-digital version for other uses. I have a sensor in my display tank to indicate if the water level get's too high from a clogged overflow. Using the non-digital version plugged into your return pump is a surefire controller-proof way to keep a flood from happening. You may find when you add a controller the outlets start to add up. Instead of buying another power strip you can use these for simple on/off applications.

[howaboutme]

You may want to consider keeping the older non-digital version for other uses. I have a sensor in my display tank to indicate if the water level get's too high from a clogged overflow. Using the non-digital version plugged into your return pump is a surefire controller-proof way to keep a flood from happening. You may find when you add a controller the outlets start to add up. Instead of buying another power strip you can use these for simple on/off applications.

 

I agree with this 100%.

 

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

[sachabballi reef]

so does that mean that you CAN buy the digital version by itself to swap out at a later date if you already have the original non-digital version?

[howaboutme]

I'm putting an Avast ATO on a sump tonight. You are welcome to come by and check it out and take some measurements to see if it will clear the black trim. Highly recommend their ATO. It’s the only one I trust on our tanks.

 

I have a couple standard tanks with black trim we can use to see if it would clear your tank.

 

Ok, I went to your place this afternoon to check things out and to see the ATO. Thanks to (is it) Adam (?) for chatting and helping me. The sensor is much bigger than I have envisioned it and it looks like you guys even have the nano mount in the sump next to that gigantic skimmer. I can see Tom's suggestion and I think it could work. I just couldn't mount the top off water line in the nice holder since the mount will most likely be under water and cause a back siphon. I need to think about this a bit more.

 

ctenephore, if you have a close up picture of how you did it on your 29G Nano, that would be extremely helpful.

 

Thanks!

Edited April 6, 2013 by howaboutme

[ctenophore]

Hi,

 

Re: The digital output and switch boxes.

 

I was asking if you sell (or will eventually sell) the digital output devices separately for when I need it? I kind of figured that the switch box cannot be changed into a digital output. Your website doesn't have the digital output devices for sale separately. It sounds like all I would have to do is switch out the switch box w/ a digital output to get it to work w/ a controller? Correct me if I'm wrong.

You are correct. You can get the switchbox separately here:

http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/replacement-parts/Pressure-Switch

 

Re: the sensor:

 

Yes, a picture would be informative, though I will try to head to Incredible Corals sometime in the near future to view your ATO since they offered. Regardless of that, does F&F carry your products?

 

Thanks again!

F&F does carry our products. Not sure what Sean has in stock at the moment though.

 

I will try to get a pic of the sensor in the morning.

[howaboutme]

I will try to get a pic of the sensor in the morning.

 

Thank you!

[ctenophore]

Sorry this took so long. Hopefully it still helps. The sensor magnet in this photo is I think the second one we ever made. They have evolved significantly since then but the nano mount does basically the same thing, except with two compression fittings to hold both the sensor tube and the fresh water tube from the ATO pump.

[howaboutme]

No worries. I'm trying to be patient w/ purchases like this.

 

This picture actually answers most of my concerns. Assuming the latest magnet mounts are similar in dimension when measured from edge of tank to the inside edge of sensor holder (horizontal dimension) and I allow the sensor to stick up above the rim (like the picture), there is absolutely no need to mod it w/ the holes as Tom suggested in order to change the water level? Am I correct in this assumption? My biggest concern was that I needed to put the entire sensor and mount below the black lip but this picture proves that it is not necessary.

 

Please advise and I may be closer to an ATO! Thanks.

[Origami]

If your water level is sufficiently below the trim to allow for the magnet mount to still hold the sensor securely with about 1/4" or so below the water line, you don't need to drill the holes. That distance between the water surface and the inside edge of the trim is probably close to 5/8-3/4" or so.

[Der ABT]

another trick is to allow some water in the tube by tilting it or by removing the airline so that the mount can stay below the trim and the water level inside the acrylic tube is raised slightly. this will move the activation point a little higher in the tube and allow the magnet the clearance it needs/acrylic the extra length into the water.

[howaboutme]

If your water level is sufficiently below the trim to allow for the magnet mount to still hold the sensor securely with about 1/4" or so below the water line, you don't need to drill the holes. That distance between the water surface and the inside edge of the trim is probably close to 5/8-3/4" or so.

 

Bingo. I believe I have this as I just measured the other night. Very good to hear.

 

another trick is to allow some water in the tube by tilting it or by removing the airline so that the mount can stay below the trim and the water level inside the acrylic tube is raised slightly. this will move the activation point a little higher in the tube and allow the magnet the clearance it needs/acrylic the extra length into the water.

 

I think I understand this concept though it will probably be easier to grasp when I have the equipment in hand. It's good to know there's a few ways to adjust.

 

I was concerned w/ modding because I don't want to void any warranties if I can help it.

 

Glad I didn't jump the gun and get something else, research is coming together. Thank you!

[Der ABT]

yeh its alot easier when you have it in your hand, basically the acrylic tube controls the on/off switch.

if you need to submeger the tube more without turning the ato On....for my cube tank the trim is int he way of the magnet so i have to have the acrlic tube to the extreme top of the magnet mount....in justins pic the acrylic tube would sit alot higher in the mount and is more prone to turning over if the airline is pulled or nudged at all.

if you allow the water in the tube a litte higher before you connect it to the on/off switch box then the waterline/on off point sits futher in the middle of the tube like justins pic

if you still dont get it ill try to take some pics tonight to demonstrate.

 

Im a big fan of my avast ato, i have the tunze and its old but great (bought it used) but it still messes up from time to time with just the optic sensor (i know the new one has a pressure switch too.

 

 

you just really need to make sure where the soft tubing goes into the switch box that you have a REALLY good connection so no air can escape.

Edited April 17, 2013 by Der ABT

[howaboutme]

Very good explanation. With that said, if you absolutely do not have any other obligations tonight and you remember, a pic would be nice. It's good to know others have used it directly in the display successfully.

 

I was very close to choosing the tunze nano but glad I am holding off.

 

Thank you!

 

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

[ctenophore]

It is very difficult to void the warranty on nearly all of our products. Drilling holes in the sensor tube or similar mods certainly would not affect the function of the switchbox. Besides, we encourage alternative or clever uses of our products. As long as you don't attempt to put the switchbox itself under water or plug a 5hp shop vac into it, you should be fine.

[howaboutme]

It is very difficult to void the warranty on nearly all of our products. Drilling holes in the sensor tube or similar mods certainly would not affect the function of the switchbox. Besides, we encourage alternative or clever uses of our products. As long as you don't attempt to put the switchbox itself under water or plug a 5hp shop vac into it, you should be fine.

 

Thanks for the clarification. It definitely helps.

[NateCamReef]

Just bought an Avast ATO and I'm installing it tonight. Can't wait to test it out. Have heard great things!

 

- Jack I'll give you an update of my install if you like.

[Chad]

Hey Justin,

 

I was thinking about this yesterday and this thread reminded me. Will the use of a peristaltic pump, or other positive displacement pump that doesn't really have a shut off head, overcome the mechanical float valve backup device?

 

Thanks!

[howaboutme]

Just bought an Avast ATO and I'm installing it tonight. Can't wait to test it out. Have heard great things!

 

- Jack I'll give you an update of my install if you like.

 

Yeah, definitely let me know though I'm pretty much sold on the Avast. I just need to get off my butt and find time to buy one and then install...

 

Are you going w/ an aqualifter or peristaltic?

[Chad]

I already went with a peristaltic... I like the slow flow and reliability.