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i have the reef keeper elite controller. this is my first time using a controller and my first serious reef tank. with that said i need some advice from the more experienced reefers on wamas. thanks in advance for the help.

what should be hooked to the 8 outlets i have on the controller and maybe a brief description as to why?

my equipment list is as follows:

2 radions

when all said and done 3-mp 40 wes

avast skimmer with skimate locker

uv light

tlf gfo and carbon reactors

return pump

triple doser(not using yet not enough demand curently for my tank) but eventually 2 part only

avast deluxe ato

 

Eric

Yeah. Forgot that, a heater.

If there's a feed cycle and you so choose, then your main pump and your skimmer pump if the skimmer is sensitive to the level in the sump.

I have an RKL and I have the following plugged in.

 

#1 - lights

#2 - Heater #1

#3 - Heater #2

#4 - lights (second plug)

 

Second Strip

#1 - Light for frag tank

#2 - Fuge Lights

#3 - Fans for ATI frag light

#4 - Light for frag tank (second plug)

 

I have my power heads, skimmer, top off, and other odds and ends on a 8 plug DJ switch. Since its easier to shut that stuff off when I am doing a water change or service. I use the controller for the timer function mostly. if you had a calcium reactor you would want the PH plugged into the controller.

It is the avast Cs1. Not sure on sensitivity as its new for me. I'm sure it has a feed cycle. Can you explain the purpose for the feed cycle?

Lights are radions that are programmed so shouldn't have to put those on. I like the dj switch idea. I think that's the next investment. I guess what I'm really looking for is, is there anything that is an absolute must put on a controller if you have one and why.

It is the avast Cs1. Not sure on sensitivity as its new for me. I'm sure it has a feed cycle. Can you explain the purpose for the feed cycle?

Some people use the feed cycle to shut down the main pump to keep food from flowing out over the overflow and into the sump. This causes the water in the sump to rise and, if a skimmer is sensitive to the level of the water that it's sitting in, this higher level can cause the skimmer to overflow the skimmer cup, dumping skimmate back into the sump. Recirculating skimmers are less sensitive to this in general.

It is reciculating. And I notice when I shut the pump down for water changes and the level in the sump rises the bubbles in the skimmer actually go down. So I'm guessing that won't be an issue. So that's 2 plugs. One skimmer pump and one return pump. What's the idea on the heater?

the heater can be controlled via the temp probe. You program what temp you want it to turn on, say 77 degrees and have it shut off at 78 degrees. that way the controller turns on the heater, not the internal heater thermostat. You just need to remember to set the heater to around 81 degrees on the dial.

the heater can be controlled via the temp probe. You program what temp you want it to turn on, say 77 degrees and have it shut off at 78 degrees. that way the controller turns on the heater, not the internal heater thermostat. You just need to remember to set the heater to around 81 degrees on the dial.

Awesome.

Awesome. This is the info I'm looking for. Keep it coming. And thank you

Thanks origami.

Thanks origami.

glad to see you use your RKE. Wait until you use your web interface & email alerts.

glad to see you use your RKE. Wait until you use your web interface & email alerts.

I will add that module later. I'm gonna have a hard enough time figuring out how to program what I have. Let's just say programmimg is not my strong point. Been making pizza for 22 years.

you need to set a delay in the restart of the cs1 skimmer. when the main pump goes off, it should also turn off the feed pump of the skimmer. this will prevent volcano action of the skimmer. not a big deal unless the cup is full of concentrated poo.

you need to set a delay in the restart of the cs1 skimmer. when the main pump goes off, it should also turn off the feed pump of the skimmer. this will prevent volcano action of the skimmer. not a big deal unless the cup is full of concentrated poo.

Are you saying for example when I shut down the main pump and powerheads that I need to shut down the skiimer because it will go crazy? Currently when I do a water change I kill the return pump and powerheads, close both valves for return and intake, the sump level raises about two inches but I've always left the skimmer running. When I do that the bubbles in the skimmer actually drop about 3 inches then when I power back up it goes right back to normal.

I use mine to control my 3 tank lights, frag tank light, refugium light, 2 heaters, fan for cooling on my tank, CO2 solenoid for my calcium reactor. I do like the idea of a feed cycle so I may do some reading on that and move my return pump to a timer since I do see food in my overflows when I feed.

You can get away with having your main pump, skimmer, and GFO on wall outlets if you don't plan to turn them off when feeding (I don't turn mine off). You can also get away with two dosing pumps (Calc and Alk) and manually dose Mag once a month. I would think your UV light as well, but I don't know much about them.

If your skimmer doesn't overflow when you shut your main return pump down for a feed cycle, then you probably don't need to shut the skimmer pumps down. This is done more often to keep the skimmer from overflowing.

 

I'll be honest, I'm not religious about using the feed cycle if I'm using food that sinks, or for the most part stays out of the overflows. However, if I'm feeding my corals with something like Reef Roids, I shut the main pump down so the food stays where the mouths are.

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