zygote2k October 29, 2012 October 29, 2012 The sump will have an anti gurgle/splash/salt creep feature which will eliminate some of the plumbing. Keep the return pump close to a side or back and route drain and return plumbing as close to sides as possible. Sump only needs to be 16" tall. Dosing pumps can be mounted up high and containers can be tucked away into a corner. You probably don't need gallon sizes yet either. All of the reactors and lockers can be attached to the top of the sump or even inside of the sump if you don't enclose 1 end. The chaeto fuge can also be incorporated into the sump and baffled accordingly. That super designed sump could give you an edge in the competition for RC tOTM.
Incredible Corals October 29, 2012 October 29, 2012 The sump will have an anti gurgle/splash/salt creep feature which will eliminate some of the plumbing. Keep the return pump close to a side or back and route drain and return plumbing as close to sides as possible. Sump only needs to be 16" tall. Dosing pumps can be mounted up high and containers can be tucked away into a corner. You probably don't need gallon sizes yet either. All of the reactors and lockers can be attached to the top of the sump or even inside of the sump if you don't enclose 1 end. The chaeto fuge can also be incorporated into the sump and baffled accordingly. That super designed sump could give you an edge in the competition for RC tOTM. +1 that would look sick. Get it made with a black or white bottom and white sides. You could also do black acrylic between the refugium area to prevent algae growth in other places of the sump.
zygote2k October 30, 2012 October 30, 2012 This is a rough idea of what I came up with. Anyone can build this sump. If you have all of the same size reactors and locker, it will work much easier. This design keeps plumbing and electrical separated and all components within easy reach of the front doors. Only 2 pumps and the rest is powered by manifold off of the return. I suggest using a Mag 18/24 because they are powerful and reliable submersible pumps. One less hole to cut in the sump too. We're trying to keep water INSIDE the sump... This design also makes you use all of the available space inside the stand for accessories like the doser and APEX components. Shelving is needed in the correct places. No more salt creep, no more rat's nest.
Coral Hind October 31, 2012 October 31, 2012 I would do the 1 1/2" drain with the two 3/4" returns. I don't think a single 1" drain would be enough.
Ryan S October 31, 2012 Author October 31, 2012 I would do the 1 1/2" drain with the two 3/4" returns. I don't think a single 1" drain would be enough. Well, it's already drilled. It has 2 1" holes in the back corner.
Ryan S November 1, 2012 Author November 1, 2012 (edited) I swapped out the mag 9.5 return pump for a mag 18 return pump, and added a 1/3 HP JBJ Artica Chiller to the setup. It's quite a bit louder than I was expecting, but very powerful and cooled the tank down very quickly (which means it won't run very often I hope). I set the heater to run from 76-78, and the chiller to run from 80-78. Edited November 1, 2012 by Ryan S
trockafella November 1, 2012 November 1, 2012 You should have some kind of gap between the chiller and heater. Right now it seems you have it so one of the 2 is always on. Set you heater for 76 and chiller to 80, then you have some separation. Or am.I just misunderstanding what you wrote?
Ryan S November 1, 2012 Author November 1, 2012 You should have some kind of gap between the chiller and heater. Right now it seems you have it so one of the 2 is always on. Set you heater for 76 and chiller to 80, then you have some separation. Or am.I just misunderstanding what you wrote? 76.0 Heater on 78.0 Heater off 80.0 Chiller on 78.0 Chiller off There is a gap.
Ryan S November 1, 2012 Author November 1, 2012 It still sucks though. Should've gone T5 and not needed the chiller at all
trockafella November 1, 2012 November 1, 2012 It still sucks though. Should've gone T5 and not needed the chiller at all Yep.. You probably also have heat issues because your right next to the windows/door.. My tank is on the opposite side of the room from windows etc. But not much you can do about that now.
Ryan S November 1, 2012 Author November 1, 2012 I am waiting for someone to tell a 200g DD so I can upgrade anyway. Already got permission from the misses.
Der ABT November 1, 2012 November 1, 2012 but then when you replaced your bulbs you woulda said i shuolda jsut bought a chiller as the price of bulbs i just replaced is the same......just saying there are 100 different ways to do things.... im still suprised the fan didnt work, im sure you could made more than one fan work (sump and tank or something) but too late now, you already have the chiller. So how are the corals/colors coming along....your still running a 10k bulb right
Der ABT November 1, 2012 November 1, 2012 o cmon, why go 200, just skip to a 300 and tell her its a 200.
Ryan S November 1, 2012 Author November 1, 2012 That jason fox piece is still STNing, half gone now. Can't seem to stop it. Could try fragging 1/2" frags off the tips I suppose. The rest of the coral are growing very nicely. A lot of growth. The bulb is 14k. Going to switch it out for the 20k bulb after 6 months.
Der ABT November 1, 2012 November 1, 2012 that stink man, wish i had some better advice for you. i really like that tort and its been pretty hardy for me (ill have another piece for ya especially whenever i get my transfer done)
Ryan S November 6, 2012 Author November 6, 2012 I like the 400w MH, and I plan on getting a 20k Radium at Christmas, which I am sure will be great. The growth is good, the penetration is good, and the chiller handles the heat without any issues anymore. But... I am not getting complete coverage. The reflector, even at 15" off the water, is meant for a 24"x24" square, not 36"x36". So the 4 corners of the tank are darker/less lit than the middle of the tank. I want complete coverage. What can I do to achieve that? Raising it higher isn't an option because the PAR is going to start sucking because it's so far from the surface of the water. I am thinking that I can: Plan A) Get a different MH reflector that's bigger and can cover a 36"x36" square better than the lumen bright reflector I have? Any suggestions on which reflector would work the best? This one from BRS, the Lumen Max SE Reflector, might be worth a try? Plan B) Get a 10x39w ATI Powermodule. The fixture is 36" long by 22" wide. When I measured this over the tank with a measuring tape, it would cover most of the tank, even just being mounted on legs, and not from the ceiling, and I'm thinking it would provide complete coverage corner to corner, of the tank... Or 2 6 bulb ATI fixtures would work too, though a single fixture would look better.
surf&turf November 6, 2012 November 6, 2012 Just leave it alone and save those areas for corals that need less light. Monti's, Chalices, etc.
trockafella November 6, 2012 November 6, 2012 Just leave it alone and save those areas for corals that need less light. Monti's, Chalices, etc. +1... I thought you were gonna leave that bulb in for a year, or 6 months, or til christmas now. I think your coverage is fine. Its ok to have some lower light areas, as mentioned above its a good place for other corals. If you feel the need to change reflectors you should take the time to build a canopy or box to go around it. Some reflectors even have that vent on them, which you could add a fan and draw some air out. I would make the canopy just big enough to cover the reflector and make it a "floating" canopy. Personally I dont like the look of the reflector just hanging there. Unless your living room has the industrial look, the light kinda looks funny hanging there. You could build a box cover for it for probably $30-40 .. I think it would make it look a lot better IMO. Why do you want to change it so bad, other than it just being you. What are you trying to grow in the corners anyways.?
Incredible Corals November 6, 2012 November 6, 2012 The edges would be great for acans and other lps that color up better in low light.
trockafella November 6, 2012 November 6, 2012 The edges would be great for acans and other lps that color up better in low light. Im sure Incredible Corals could help you fill those corals in.. Ive heard some chatter that theyre going to have some sick stuff.!!
Ryan S November 6, 2012 Author November 6, 2012 I am not changing bulbs. I am sticking to the 400w MH. I just think a square reflector (vs the octagon one I have now), that is bigger, with more coverage, would be better for my tank, that's all.
ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B) November 6, 2012 November 6, 2012 Im sure Incredible Corals could help you fill those corals in.. Ive heard some chatter that theyre going to have some sick stuff.!! Ryan, from pictures your sandbed around the tank edges doesn't look very dim....are you basing this on PAR figures or does it present differently in person? Are you just trying to improve the "appearance" of light on the edges or are you trying to legitimately increase the PAR figures there as well?
Ryan S November 6, 2012 Author November 6, 2012 I will take a few photos tonight. From the front and sides. Maybe they will demonstrate the problem. I can see the shading visually. I have SPS pieces in the corners, but they are brown and grow the slowest. The pieces in the center of the tank have doubled in size in the last month and have excellent colors. So I guess the answer is PAR and appearance.
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