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ctreptow's dual 75 rebuild


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Hi All

 

It's been a while since I had time to devote to my tanks so around a year ago I decided to start over. I still had my dual 75's up and running but they where in poor shape. I moved all my stock to my 100 rubbermaid sump in the basement and started the tear down of the show tanks in the living room. For the restart I want to have 1 tank hold softies and the other hold hard corals. I don't think I will ever get good enough at this hobby to keep some of the harder to take care of corals but I love Monti's and the LPS corals.

 

The 2 tanks will sit together in an L shape sharing a common 100 gallon sump in the basement.

 

I started the rebuild by drilling the hard coral tank for side overflow and closed loop. This included 2 holes for 1" bulkheads in the side with 3 holes in the back. 1 for a 1" bulkhead and 2 for 3/4" bulkheads. The closed loop will draw from the 1" and feed back to the tank via the 2 3/4" bulkheads and 2 over the top. The next step was to get my friend to make me some custom built stands. I wanted to raise the tanks higher and cover one of the backs since it's visible from the staircase.

 

Stands were delivered a couple of months ago and boy did he do a great job.

 

gallery_339_454_385546.jpg

 

When the stands came in I installed 2 Icecap 660's running 5 t5 54w tubes over the SPS/LPS tank and PC's over the Softy tank. I completed all the plumbing for the closed loop, overflow and return.

 

The next thing is to figure out my aquascape, I am not a creative guy and when the tanks were up before I always hated the Aqua scape I could never get it to look the way I wanted. I was surfing over on Reef Central the other night and found the Foam rock aqua scape and thought this looks great. Since my tanks are narrow it will allow me to create the aqua scape and cover all the pipes and fitting in 1 swoop. So off to the store I go to get he supplies. See next post for the start of the Foam experience.

 

Chris

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1 photo not very intensive.... Just kidding. I've only seen one other tank employing foam in this club and it was a nano. Are you planning on cutting, shaving, and sculpting the foam of just spraying it and hoping for the best. Good luck!

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many more images to come.. :)...

 

No I foam arpund the rocks then sculpt and tear it away to allow more of the rock to shoe through.

 

The next post which I am working on will be the foaming and how I did it. I have 2 sections ready for resin and sanding. once they cure.

 

Chris

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Ok let the rock building begin.

 

The process to create the foam background is to build a grid system out of drop ceiling light diffuser, zip tie rock to it and foam around the live rock. Once the foam is set you need to sculpt it, cover it with 2 part epoxy and sand /crushed coral to make it look more realistic.

 

I do realize that this is a real risk to do. The long term effects of foam and epoxy off gassing are not known and how long the foam will hold together is also an unknown. I just really like the look and feel of them and as I said before my aqua spaces have always been just a pile of rocks. I wanted something different.

 

To start the project I needed to create the grid for the liverock to attach to. I need to build the back in 3 sections. one to the left middle and right.

 

Left grid with rock attached

 

gallery_339_454_32062.jpg

 

The hole in the middle is where the closed loop will come through the wall.

 

Center Grid

 

gallery_339_454_544400.jpg

 

The center grid covers the closed loop intake. and one of the over the back closed loop returns.

 

Center grid reinforced

 

gallery_339_454_90792.jpg

 

I learned real fast the I need to reinforce the grid before I put the rock on and foam. These extra grid pieces are removed once the foam sets.

 

Center Grid with rock installed

 

 

gallery_339_454_288979.jpg

 

Some of these rocks are really big the grid was straining

 

Center Grid foamed

 

I then added the foam to the grid

 

gallery_339_454_120997.jpg

 

As you can see the foam really expands around the rocks.

 

 

Left and center in tank to check fit while I measure for the final grid.

 

gallery_339_454_541280.jpg

 

You can see I started to sculpt the foam

 

I also made big holes near the bottom for water flow and hiding places

 

gallery_339_454_15674.jpg

 

More to come as I continue this project.

 

Chris

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The 3 pieces are rocked and foamed. Here are some pictures of the test fitting.

 

From the front

 

gallery_339_454_20041.jpg

 

From the side

 

gallery_339_454_251358.jpg

 

Next steps

 

I am going to let the foam cure for the next few days before I epoxy and sand cover the black parts,

 

Then I will put the pieces back in, foam the joints in place and sculpt the wall as a whole.

 

Epoxy and final sand and we are ready for water..

 

Chris

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The expoxy will help to keep anything from leaching out of the foam. Just make sure that you coat the foam well. With the addition of the sand it will pretty much look like dark rock. Very nice build and can't wait to see it up and running.

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The epoxy will also help protect the foam for breaking down. I did use pond foam that is more water resistant then the insulating foam from HD but it stall may break down over time.

 

I just see all the possibilities. I can just stick my frags in the foam. No more looking for that perfect place on the rock pile.

 

Chris

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AAhhh but that just sort of happened, I always wanted a hard tank and soft tank and since it was easy to access the basement from this location the L was a natural fit. My creativity comes in with the Fish bridge I wanted to build that would allow the fish to swim between tanks. But that was much too expensive to implement.

 

Chris

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The epoxy will also help protect the foam for breaking down. I did use pond foam that is more water resistant then the insulating foam from HD but it stall may break down over time.

 

I just see all the possibilities. I can just stick my frags in the foam. No more looking for that perfect place on the rock pile.

 

Chris

 

When you stick the frags in the foam, doesn't that break the epoxy of of the DIY rocks? Exposing the rock to UV?

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It could.

 

It's my understanding that the UV breaks it down over time. I figure that the small break in the epoxy should be covered by coraline or the coral before any breakdown occurs. I also used the black pond foam which is less prone to UV problems.

 

Since there are really no long term tests, The longest I have seen is Tiggy's on RC going about a year, I am going in with low expectations figuring maybe I can get 2 years out of it. That way if it's still going in 5 years I can rejoice...

 

 

Chris

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It could.

 

It's my understanding that the UV breaks it down over time. I figure that the small break in the epoxy should be covered by coraline or the coral before any breakdown occurs. I also used the black pond foam which is less prone to UV problems.

 

Since there are really no long term tests, The longest I have seen is Tiggy's on RC going about a year, I am going in with low expectations figuring maybe I can get 2 years out of it. That way if it's still going in 5 years I can rejoice...

Chris

 

Gotcha, I built a big one myself but haven't put it in my tank yet. How did you do your epoxy? I liked the idea too of putting a frag anywhere, but was afraid of exposing the foam.

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(edited)

I am doing the epoxy in 2 ways. 1st I put a very heavy coating of epoxy on the foam. This really seems to help harden the foam as well as stiffing up the structure. While the epoxy is still wet I covered the whole piece with a sand crushed coral mix. I also mixed a large bowl of epoxy and poured the sand mix in the epoxy to create a cement type mixture. I use this to cover some of the gaps between the rocks and foam. The cement is rock hard when it dries and looks fantastic.

 

I epoxied the last 2 parts this evening and will have pictures of them by this weekend. Once I put them in I will foam and epoxy the joints in place and be ready for water soon after.

 

I just ordered my sand and salt for the tank and hope to be filing them early next week.

 

 

 

Yeah algae in the bridge would be a pain. I have a hard time getting my Mag float to get it off the front let alone through a bridge..

 

I was also looking at maybe doing a 4" PVC pipe between the 2 tanks that would allow the fish and water to flow between the 2. That way I would have the sump return on 1 tank and the drain on the other. Water would flow between the tanks and would be very cool. I didn't like the idea of cutting 4 1/2" holes in my tanks and the long term effects on the fittings and glass were something I wasn't ready to experiment with because I like my floor the way it is and 150 gallons of water leaking through the floor into my basement wasn't a happy thought

 

Chris

Edited by ctreptow
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Just curious, I like your design very nice. I also like the way your going to protect the foam form the UV and the cool shelfing design. But I was wondering the foam has a S.G. less than saltwater, aren't you worried that the whole thing is going to float and if so how will you keep it secure?

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Researching others on the web I have found that they just siliconed them to the back.

 

The rocks attached are heavy. The 2 large pieces weigh in at about 10 to 15 lbs and a great deal of the foam on them has been removed. I also have grid extending out from the bottom past the foam.

 

I am water testing each piece by putting it in my saltwater storage trash can and it seems that piece number 1, the corner piece, needs about 10 lbs of down force to keep it down. I haven't tested the other 2 yet. They have much less foam and much more rock so they should be close to sinking.

 

My 3 prong approach to securing it.

 

1st I will silicone the back pieces to the glass, the silicone will bond to the glass and fill in the open grid pieces from behind to act like fingers holding it.

 

2nd I will have sand and loose rock work in the front that will sit on the grid holding it down.

 

3rd I am going to foam and epoxy the seams and across the top top of the back so the foam will extend above the waterline. I am hoping the foam will adhere to the glass and fill in under the trim at the top. This should act like a keystone the holds the top in and down.

 

 

 

 

Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

 

Chris

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I have 2 types that I am using, I got the 2 part finishing resin from HD and Iwill use the ZAP finishing resin for the in house work. Zap is odor free.

 

Chris

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Researching others on the web I have found that they just siliconed them to the back.

 

The rocks attached are heavy. The 2 large pieces weigh in at about 10 to 15 lbs and a great deal of the foam on them has been removed. I also have grid extending out from the bottom past the foam.

 

I am water testing each piece by putting it in my saltwater storage trash can and it seems that piece number 1, the corner piece, needs about 10 lbs of down force to keep it down. I haven't tested the other 2 yet. They have much less foam and much more rock so they should be close to sinking.

 

My 3 prong approach to securing it.

 

1st I will silicone the back pieces to the glass, the silicone will bond to the glass and fill in the open grid pieces from behind to act like fingers holding it.

 

2nd I will have sand and loose rock work in the front that will sit on the grid holding it down.

 

3rd I am going to foam and epoxy the seams and across the top top of the back so the foam will extend above the waterline. I am hoping the foam will adhere to the glass and fill in under the trim at the top. This should act like a keystone the holds the top in and down.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

Chris

 

 

I was thinking the same thing. Sounds like you had all this planned from the get go. Good luck and I hope to see more photos.

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