F&Fmgr

99 times out 100 with the reeflo pumps it is a bearing/ seal issue. the impeller and shaft typically will always move, but if there is too much resistance the pump will eventually seize and burn out. see here for more tips. I would definately give them a call : Toll Free Phone # 877-378-6798 M-F 8am-5pm (Mountain time) E-mail: Sales@reeflopumps.com Owners E-Mail: Chris@reeflopumps.com

the bearing is propably gone. Take the pump apart to check inside the volute(front end casing) to make sure nothing is stopping the impeller.. secondly, call the manufacturer to get a replacement bearing and seal. there is a really good place in fairfax that replaced mine for very little. in the mean time I would place submersible pumps in the tank to keep water moving.

was it eating? any external marks? Mouth open when it died? gill flaps flared when it died? swimming normally? did it die in the morning, day or night? were you monitering ammonia? were you monitering Salinity and alk? All that said i think you would be much better off with at least mechanical filtration, or even better mech and bio. I wouldn't use LR because of the possibility of having to medicate the tank. sponges work well to have to make sure to rinse them tho. Hagen biomax or Eheim substrat are fantastic bio bedia made from quartz/glass so they are fine to use with pretty much any meds hope that helps Sean

how long did you have the fish in QT before it died? For future reference, I wouldn't ever dip a fish right after acclimation that has been in transit for longer than a couple hours. After you did the 1.5 hour dip did you re-acclimate? If the pH and temp changed in the dip water during that period, then the fish may have died from shock. IME if you use preventative chemical dips on newly arrived specimens that have been in transit for a while, you will lose a decent amount of fish. their gill tissue is almost always irritated from NH4 in the bag water. A dip, the day after acclimation will allow the fish to.... ACCLIMATE.

just out of curiousity, do you rinse the pads after folding them. IME(well other people's) if you bend, cut, wring out, or anything else that could possibly release the media from the pads, then you should properly rinse the detached media off of the pad. JUst had a customer last week that nuked their tank with a carbon pad; they rinsed then cut and the GAC particles were ingested by some of his corals. PO4 pads usually use the white aluminium media...and boy will that stuff F-up a tank. just food for thought

i think any fish breeder would have to make sure proper precautions are taken when introducing new brood stock. centralized UV sterilization is really the only thing besides chlorine that really truly kills viruses. several companies have tried to make products but they are therapeutic at best. Observational QT should be done for at least two months IMO with newly acquired wild Banggais. I think tank bred is the ONLY option. I don't think they'll be affected or infected for that matter if proper precautions are taken

from one of my vendors.... "Due to a recent outbreak of a highly contagious and untreatable iridovirus among wild-caught Banggai Cardinals (Pterapogon kauderni), we will no longer be importing or selling these fish. Symptoms of this virus include listlessness, reduced appetite, and sunken stomach. Reports indicate a mortality rate of over 50% among infected fish within 4-6 weeks. More information about the Iridovirus: * The virus has only been found in wild-caught Banggai Cardinals imported into the US * It appears that the virus is species-specific; there have been no known cases of this virus being transmitted to other fish * The virus has only been isolated from wild-collected fish so it is unclear at what point in the supply chain the fish are being infected or whether it originates in the wild and is amplified by the stresses of shipping, etc. What you can do: * Discontinue carrying imported Banggai Cardinals until more is known about this virus and its potential effects * Advise your customers to exercise caution when buying new fish—adding a wild collected cardinal to an established, healthy group of Banggais puts the whole group at risk of infection. * Because of the extended incubation time of the virus, infected fish may not show symptoms for over a month, if at all. This makes standard quarantine procedures much less effective at screening out unhealthy fish. "

both

double check your connections to make sure there isn't a short. taht can cause the lights to fire on then off.

i know somebody out there

nice grab, LMK if I can help. Sean

how large is large? let me know if i can help, I could at least help load it.

i'm game

lets not turn this into a BB vs DSB conversation. I think what Frank was getting at is that crushed coral is generally really good at 1 thing, trapping dirt. a properly agitated sandbed whether deep or shallow with the right grain size will be very conducive to the proliferation of microfauna. PLus< generally speaking, smaller grain sand tends to have more surface area for bacteria which means better decomp of the waste in the tank( or sandbed).

+1

yeah but tell that woman that calls from your house in the middle of the night to stop calling! enough of the silly talk, can you pm me your number, I have a favor to ask.

Ive let a few members borrow some books over the summer, some as far back as the beginning of the year. Would you please return the book(s) you have borrowed as soon as you are able. Thanks Sean

just remember long term... pathogens can be introduced through nearly every specimen you add to your tank. IE snails, new fish, echinos, live rock , live sand, coral with ANY substrate(cc, arag, ceramic, rubble, shell). the main thing is to maintain proper water chemistry, which is somewhat challenging given the unrelaible accuracy of some fundamental tests especially kH. make sure that you are always testing your tests against a calibration standard when things don't look right and test kits say other wise. Also, i think running your fuge in reverse light cycle will have added benefits like a more steady pH w/o alot of chemicals. LMK if you have any ?'s Sean

poggiPJ, if you've never been to a social i suggest you go. I know John keeps healthy stock, and has a system adequate for receiving, observing, treating and isolating any fish that they get. What i don't understand is, yeah it might take some extra effort to preventatively treat incoming fish, but its worth it. some stores/people don't have the resources to QT or hold fish for observation, but im my mind there is no other way to condition fish to be as healthy as possible before going into a tank with several hundred dollars worth of other fish... its your dime.

who's jeremy?

looks like it to me

nice tank! what lighting do you have?

NICE

how did the Prazi work for you? positive results yet?