F&Fmgr

lol

I have, for real....

dosing lanthanum chloride into a 33 long 4'x1'x1' about, with the ball valve trurned toa trickle at about 30-40 gallons per hour going through the tank, ive been dosing 10 mLs per hour into the tank. I started with 5.0 + mg/L , ,i am doqn to about 3 mg/L. so faqr so good

im here most everyday, except sunday. sometimes i run out to grab things for the store, buit if you tell me what day you'd come by I'll be sure to be here. Sean

gobies that have similiar coloring will usually fight for space. i would change the sleeper gobies dwelling area if it keeps being a bully. Usually with soime sort of change in landscape will change the behavioral dynamics of the fish. Works great for tangs, and pretty much any other fish that becomes territorial, change the territory and the fish will re-assimilate. Hope that helps Sean

see HERE. They also have a dual stage controller that can control both a chiller and heater. Tyhe gold standard in temp control.

i think youre right Josh.... drain the tank and redo the plumbing, you'll sleep better.

numbers look good, except the alk. If youre dosing ionic forms of alk,calcium, and mag, then you will most likely experience pH shifts when the alk gets below 8. I'd reccommend adding a little bit baking soda and soda ash to the tank. I like to mix 10 parts baking soda: 1 part soda ash. Mostalkalinity buffers are exactly that with a lil added borate. Try adding a tiny, i mean tiny, like a teaspoon per 5 gallons, of kalkwasser to your top-off water. This will bring your alk and calcium up together, and also binds with PO4 and gets skimmed out. Sean PS... if you have a tupperware or other container that would hold about 2liters or half gallon, feel free to pop into the store and i can mix some up for you. However strong or weak you would like it

You guys better watch Doug....

goldeneye ATL, got mine from there 4-5 yrs ago. Sean

I have hired more than half a dozen people from pet department stores that wanted exactly that....to be able to CARE for the animals. Each and every one of them has described a "room" in the back where the sick animals were placed for "observation" . they all said that pretty much w/e went in that stayed in the room until, well, you get the idea. one of my customers used to work at a Pet dept. store, and they would tell me about how animals would go in, their shift would end, only to come back the next day or two to find the animal gone. AGAIN, THIS IS NOT FACT. I DO NOT KNOW IT TO BE TRUE. I AM SIMPLY RESTATING OTHER PEOPLES WORDS.....THAT OUGHTA HOLD OFF TROCK AND THE MAN

Avast sells it

hey Jan, Have you thought about teeing offof your return line into the UV? you could have flow rate control, and achieve higher sterilization rates if needed. just a thought

just a couple ? Glad JOhn could help you out Shaun. One of the advantages of having a few good places w/i driving distance

both of them clog very quickly IME. I would go with an Avast reactor. See here

I know it's a haul for you Frank, but i try and give you several excuses to come visit! Glad the eel is doing so well Tony! I still have the other one which eats from tweezers now. Anybody want to give a snowflake eel a good home? the eel is 19.99 less the WAMAS discount. Check this out: google search for "snowflake eel for sale" As always guys and gals, Thank you for your continued support!!!

+1 I couldn't agree more. I had almost the exact same problem. I decided to buy an alk meter hanna, and man, i think all test kits can be misleading or down right wrong. if you can afford them, I would at least get the alk checker b/c i dont think there is any hobby grade test better than that. A word of advice, along with what rocko said, if things are going wrong in your tank and your test kits say everything is ok, I would have a friend test with their sets, bring it to an LFS that has abetter means of testing or can calibrate probe testers etc. my problem was more with high alkalinity. As soon as I had the checker(which I tested against a standard to w/i 5ppm) i was able to stabilize my system because i was getting consistent readings. W/O accurate readings from the testers and monitors/controllers that we use, we might as well be guessing. I believe John @ BRK stocks the checkers

] I actually started using Chaeto as a main component of my filtration and I love the results. I could never get it to grow fast enough to starve microalgae. What am i doing different? no socks,or if you want to the mesh socks works great. The felt/poly socks trap TOO much dirt and can turn into a nitrate factory if not cleaned at least weekly. The advantage of the Chaeto using the "dirt" instead of the sock cathcing it, is that you will see tons of pods repopulating like mad right where that food is. if your using rubble that works, but try finding a bunch of empty shells; they provide an excellent sanctuary for pod larvae and other microfauna. the other good way to get the detritus out of there if it does accumulate is to put a small prop pump in your fuge....it will kepp the chaeto tumbling so that all sides are exposed to light, and it will keep the detritus in suspension which will(should unless the skimmer is weak) be skimmed out. If you want to use filter socks, Eshopps makes nylon 200 micron socks which don't clog as easy and they are certainly easier to clean; just flip inside out and rinse. i use these because they require less changing as they dont clog up like the thicker ones. See HERE[/url I have I have I have....everyone knows youre a beast when it come to natural filtration! in | | out Like Rocko said, putting one 90 or even two 90 deg elbows | | |---| like that. Sorry for no drawing. BUt basically if you add to 90s together so that the water comiong from the drain does a 180 you will see a drastic reduction in air bubbles.

i'm pretty sure Gloria said he was eating lil IQF krill from her fingers. Looks great Travis, keep up the goood work!

are your flatworms the red planarian type? if not the medication may not kill them at even 3x the dose might not kill the lil brown ones or the clear ones. unless you have some sort of media or pad pulling some of the med. out, thats all i can think of.

+1 aka slimer

why? Giz... if youre curious to find out what it is then scope it. i've seen dinos short long bubblyh and not. If you want to fix the PROBLEM then definately raise alk and adde some carbon. If you maintin water chemistry and siphon as much as possible, it will subside. Icreased water movement is a control for pretty much any algae IME Oh and like firecracker said macro is the best thing to outcompete these pest algaes.

can you even get a positive reading on a chelated chlorine molecule? I thought the chlor had to be seperated from the amine first. ive always used a pool test kit for total chlorine and free chlorine to measure the chlorine and chloramine. Any chemists out there that can shed a light?

this place is great. 2 thumbs up

Honestly, i've been using a bunch of the WATER BLASTERS from octopus and they are sweet.