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YHSublime

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Everything posted by YHSublime

  1. Doing the reverse of what I did, I started with a MP10 on the back wall, then as the need grew HAD to add the MP10 on the "front." By the time you get rock and heavy sand in there, you'll have both running. FWIW, I was able to keep a heavily stocked mixed reef, including acro for a few years before adding the additional MP10.
  2. Depends how high up the water line is on the 40 cube. Whatever you have right now that would drain in if there was no power, plus whatever would drain out of the 40.
  3. At first blush, I'm thinking you're going to want to make sure your sump can handle the additional overflow from the refugium if you lose power. Based on the way you've drawn this though, I'm presuming return pump goes into the display, drain passes through the refugium then into the sump? I did this on my old 150 in "Two Tanks, One Room." IIRC, I used the same sump, but two separate return pumps. I only added a 20L, so didn't need a ton.
  4. Most times. If you get anything outside of the free shipping parameters that does require overnight, then you have to pay it. For the most part, everything has been OK, with the occasional losses. Over covid times I know John had trouble with delivery's getting delayed, and when I did have a pretty big loss due to it, he refunded. He also advised me that I should pay for the overnight shipping. That's when I started trying other companies for CUC, as most others will ship overnight free if you spend up to a price point, but I haven't found anything that matches RC's quality of product yet.
  5. The pitho will eat bubble algae. Emerald crabs are more common. I don't think it's the gender of the crab, I have used reef breeders for about the past decade I think there's something to do with the size of the spores/size of the bubble algae and it's ability to spread, there was a discussion on it a long long long time ago. I had a purple tang that loved bubble algae, was great! I have never experienced this myself. correlation does not equal causation. All speculation on my end, so with a grain of salt, but I'd be more inclined to believe that the crabs are going after algae on the coral, or stealing food out of it (ever tried to feed LPS with shrimp around?!)
  6. honestly, natural remedy is starting to work
  7. Are you using the mag 5? I think you'll be fine. I found the loudest piece was the skimmer pulling air.
  8. Ya'll are out here using cheater bars on your RO's?! Do I need to be taking creatine or something?!
  9. I do, never found it to be an issue. But if you do, your longer handle is a great solution!
  10. I take my RO out/over the sink when I replace the filters
  11. It’s already starting to look cleaner than my build! Love to see it
  12. i dilute with fresh water, been doing it for the whole summer now for outside, still figuring out fit inside, as it doesn’t smell great.
  13. Thanks. I just did the plugged bulkheads. You can order them on BRS. i don’t know how old the tank was, but I didn’t have to reseal.
  14. I guess I should say coral and rock. That photo is the frag tank. It’s also in the display. There is coral on that frag tank rock pic, not visible from the angle snapped. It’s growing fine, despite the cyno around it. also to note, its only sticking to what it came in on. Like I mentioned, it might slowly just resolve itself. I have cleaned everything off in a bucket with NSW, and it heads back pretty quickly.
  15. Yeah, it looks to have accomplished a bit of filling in:
  16. It’s pretty big. It’s like 7 years ago when you used to get the big 8” maxima’s from Dr. Mac. It’s easily 8”+. I’ll have to look at old photos of my PEA 3” maxima grab and see if it’s grown any over the years!
  17. If you can, I'd go with option #2. If you have space for the livestock/rock/corals, etc, and can get it dry and cleaned up, I would absolutely do that. I'd make sure of a few things first, like making sure the glass isn't tempered. I'm of the opinion that most tanks should be done this way, those old school overflows take up so much space, and option #2 is soooo much cleaner looking. I recently did this, but with a tank that was dry and I was not in a hurry to get setup. I took my Deep Blue 80g rimless, and pulled out the internal overflow. I plugged the holes with bulkheads with the intention of aquaspacing over them so they were not an eye slight. I drilled the side of the tank (wanted to run a peninsula style) and used a Fiji Cube overflow. The original tank format: Cleaned up, drilled, plugged: [/url] Nobody ever notices the plugs:
  18. Hello WAMAS, I've picked up a couple of pieces of coral over the past few months that came from a tank that had a huge green cyno issue. Against my better judgment, I put the rock and coral directly into both of my tanks. I'm not terribly concerned, as it remains exactly on the rocks or corals it came in on, and has not spread anywhere else. It is, however, and eyesight in the places where there does not seem to be progress, which is really just a few spots. I'm not going to use chemiclean, but have been considering adding another bacteria to out compete. I was considering using Microbe Lift, but it all feels a bit like snake oil. Does anybody have any thoughts or experience in this department? FWIW, I believe that over time this will remedy itself, I am seeing very (emphasis on very) slow progress with it's dissipation. Here is a picture of the frag tank, with the rock that is the absolute worst out of anything that was covered in it. It has not spread to anything else, just what came in with it.
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