Fishie

I guess it depends on the personality ... I have a smaller tank at just 3 feet and have a yellow wrasse , leopard wrasse and the flame and I only see the yellow do a very minor chase after the flame on occasion ... If I cud do a list again I wud go at least 4 flames so colorful and mine eats from my hand very unusual for a wrasse I think

Maybe get some flame wrasses they will look so nice in that tank ... Can't wait for u get this going

cool did not know that

could a single flame wrasse turn from female to male.. i have 2 lyretail anthias that i see the flame occasionally flash in front of. I also have a yellow wrasse and leopard wrasse.. don't know if that means anything tho. the color has changed from reddish to half red and half yellow which is why I'm thinking its turning to a male.

try an keep 2 heaters running...temp swings can cause a lot of issues. here is what i do get my temp at 78-79 all the time 1) set both heaters to about 80-81 2) set apex to turn heaters on at 78 and shut at 79. how this helps 1)if 1 heater dies the other can compensate 2) if apex temp malfunctions and decides to make it hotter the heaters will auto shut off when they hit 80-81 so I'm not gonna overheat things. 3) if apex stays always on for heater again i am protected since heaters will shut off at 80-81

ok ill just get my inverts from you at our next meet or maybe sooner...we are lucky to have such a great resource

Hey guys I need to refresh my cleaning crew....I've usually just gotten them from a lfs or online without any issues. but I want to make sure that I am not introducing any coral eating parasites that hitchhiked with them. should I QT them with a bayer kind of mx or dewromer or just simply dip them in revive I don't want to take any chances of introducing red bugs or anything else.

Ok that makes sense it being on the edge and having radions... I may have to increase my lighting intensity or try adding some supplements

Hey Wamas Can someone help me identify what's causing this colony to start dying The damaged area is located towards the lower middle area with the least light now that the top is growing It started off near the middle and has spread outwards over time The pinkish spots are holes where the polyps existed running right through I have no red bugs and this is the only coral that has such damage Everything else is growing fine in the tank and so is this on the top layer

after about 5 months now of running biopellets I am not seeing anything that would indicate it is having a large impact for the good on my system. I did see such results much quicker when I tried vinegar and vodka...so I am now trying a hybrid solution the theory is that with my biopellets established the addition of vodka provides more place for the beneficial bacteria to grow in the reactor .. I have started with just 1ml per day of vodka I am not using any vinegar this time...only vodka as for coral growth everything is growing well...but not all are coloring up well. here is a list for SPS good growth and good color - setosa, rommels watermelon, red planet, ora pearlberry, tyree TDF, JF psunami, Red Dragon, gard bonsai, Oregon Tort, Purple Monster good growth and Poor color - pink lemonade more brownish, Shock Tart should be dark green/purple and red but is all pale green currently , cc needle in a haystack light pinkish atm, ultimate rainbow light purple/brown i have a strawberry shortcake that at times shows good color /growth then flips to the reverse so haven't locked that down yet. most of all i think they need stability which with all my experimenting im not sure i have provided...although its getting there and i don't expect to be making any more drastic changes. KH 8.5 ( working on lowering this to around 7) CA 420 MG 1370

i have an update on this the revive bath didn't really wipe them out cause they were probably still there elsewhere in the system like my sump /sand bed etc...they did come back on a few frags again so I went ahead and got interceptor spectrum large tablet from canadapetcare with the intention of treating the entire display this is what I did. Its very EASY 1) mashed up half a tablet to treat about 150Gallons of water 2) mix in warm ro/di water 3) removed shrimp and as many hermits i cud see (i don't plan to bring the hermits back though due to small chance of reintroduction) 4) turn off UV 5) remove GAC 6) disconnect air line for skimmer (water still needs to run through it). 7) at night i added the mixture in 8) waited 12 hours and introduced GAC 9) turned on skimmer 10 ) did water change of 20gallons not much really 11) checked for Bugs ...they were ALL GONE huzzah! I checked again at night to see how some corals were reacting and i saw PE on my pearl berry for the first time...i guess the bugs annoyed it before and it did not open I am not done yet though i will be doing another treatment 7 days later and then a third (just an extra precautionary treatment ) another 7 days after the 2nd treatment all the fish are absolutely OK....the corals are better or not impacted at all.

i did that maroon bells hike with my kid piggybacking last year....was epic!!!

I have carribsea arag live in one tank and special grade in the other ...if you wanna stop by and see both side by side. here are my thoughts on both 1) carribsea arag live looks fantastic but if you have fish that like to stir the sand or powerheads that may blow it around it can be messy. otherwise it looks really when the other 2 aren't an issue also due to its fine grain size I haven't had algae issues growing on it. 2)special grade. I first saw this at the display tank in marine scene and really liked it. I got myself some and it did great initially. later on I had an issue where I somehow picked up this really bad algae called turf algae from a frag I think. it was like a wire red and next to impossible to remove...ugly and invasive it even grew on my special grade sand bed because the grain size allowed it. I found that turbo snails were the only ones who ate it from LR but they didn't go out on the sand so it remained there...I went through a few months of taking sand out (drying it so the algae died) and reintroducing it again...painful annoying process but that didn't help cause over time that algae would come back again...I finally wiped it out by increasing my tank water changes, using coral snow from zeovit and increasing my magnesium to around 1500-1600.....I don't know which ones of these fixed it but it did...due to all the stirring and cleaning I had dino and algae blooms which seemed to really like the special grade sand...I went lights out for 3 days and got that a little under control... finally after being consistent with my tank maintenance (water changes) and the addition of carbon dosing I have the sand bed looking like it should. I have very little brownish film left and that is slowly going away as my pellets mature. so if you stay on top of your tank and maintain it then special grade will work great...but I wouldn't recommend it for anyone who ignores the basic maintenance tasks (which I had done with no water changes for close to a year).... I also feel that carbon dosing has helped it if I had to do it all over again I would still pick special grade because I plan to stay on top of maintenance ...oh also my wrasse sleeps well in it

I've been using a hydra aquatics fr45...i also removed the sponge since it would clog over time. it is getting flow from my return pump and the output goes directly to my skimmer

I used vodka /vinegar and it seemed to have an impact very quickly on algae BUT I also got a bacterial bloom (white stringy stuff everywhere) about a month into it and some places say it was to be expected...but I got scared and quit liquid carbon dosing I have since switched to biopellets...(leave and forget once tweaked) but so far (2 months in) it has no where close to the impact that liquid dosing had...I am still documenting it and the jury is still out on biopellets I have seen some positive signs in the last week..but still too early to confirm cannot comment on ca reactor cause I use 2 part and like it....

full recovery and encrusted on the sides too =)

nice...220 is a great size and looks like ur in good hands with ERC helping out...will be fun to watch this built

o wow this is so awesome....nice job

Wow this is gonna be epic ... [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

just thought i would share this incase anyone else might face this. I got an alarm saying my temperature had dropped below my set threshold for my apex. i don't know what caused it...but both my thermometers had changed from a heater config to a light config and we set to come on for a time frame rather than a temperature range... i was able to catch it quickly but i don't know what made the config change and wanted to give you guys a heads up incase u something weird like this too.

nice thx for sharing

its staying the same ...and not spreading so i think it will recover...PE is still good everywhere

to connect from outside you would need your public IP address. Did you ever use anything like no-ip.biz to control a dynamic public IP address also with apex fusion you don't even need to do any of this since you can just browse to the apex fusion site and connect to you controller. that way the app isn't needed anymore...i still use the app at times as a 2nd way to get to it usually from my phone when i want to control something

it did happen to one of them...tierra del fuego of all ...shrug...and it was doing very well and had gotten brighter colors than when i got it.. but it has retained the base and i do se PE on the naked part...so i am crossing my fingers and hoping it makes a full recovery.

hey all, i was cleaning my tank today and didn't think i could do this ...but i pumped my turkey baster a bit too hard over one of my corals and it blew the slime coat off...the coral frag was very healthy so i don't think it was dead tissue...it just blew off... the base of the frag still has all the slime/tissue on it... will this heal...anything i shud do ?