Neto

LOOL, that was a good one.

I have been keeping reef tanks since 2002 and from all the years of experience ive had reefing i have never been able to keep a BTA... I tried twice, the first time was that it got stuck in the powerhead and the second time it got deflated and died... Any advice from BTA experts here in the forum?

I think there is a zeovit additive that kills them.

You are right but leds can still provide good color & growth under the right conditions. Sometimes the transition from one type of light to another can have a negative effect on corals, specially if they are very sensitive such as SPS.

http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/137-tank-of-the-month

chucelli's tank was TOTM on reef central and he only has whie & blue cree LEDS.

yeah, I know. I might stop by this weekend.

Welcome, im in Urbana, md, not far from you.. I like your avatar!

looks great, very natural... What are the dimensions of this tank?

I will try to stop by this week, jeez im so far away!

Where did you purchase these from?

Great, thanks I will PM them lol, sounds like they did their job already and are gone maybe?

Before ordering online I want to see if there is anyone in the community that breeds berghia nudibranches.. anybody?

What about fish? should I keep them all together without rocks? or should I put them separate in buckets with rocks?

I started doing that but currently I am only doing a water change every month and it will take me forever to remove it all. I would also need to remove the rock layout to get the sand below the rocks... Setting up the layout again is not a problem since its a nano.

I have a shallow 22 gallon tank and I decided to remove the sand bed because it is a pain the the butt to clean, I have too much flow and sand blows everywhere. I only have maybe 1/4" - 1/3" in some areas. Strategy: Since I have such small tank, I would like to quickly transfer all water, rocks, coral & fish to a 10 gallon (will sit on floor) and some 5 gal buckets. After doing that, I will scoop all the sand from the tank and vacuum any remaining sand.I will then rinse the tank with saltwater and make sure there is no more sand. After that I will re-use the old saltwater (in buckets and 10g tank) with 4 gallons of salt water (premixed), add rocks, coral & livestock back to the tank and start sump, skimmer, etc.. Do you see any problem with my process above? The house will remain at 77 degrees so temperature will not be a big issue.

wow I like that one, and that one, and that one, and that one lol

thats not crystal clear, this is

I think that a lot of problems that people are having is that they either have too many or too few leds over their tanks. Also the transition from a type of light to another, corals will most likely change and stop growing until they get used to it.. I have had frags that come from MH and T5 tanks and when I place them in my tank, they stay very small and dont show growth at all untill months or even a year after... I have been able to keep all types of coral with leds for years now and they all have very good color. My major problem is keeping water quality the same all the time since I have a nano and having soo many corals in one small box, parameters are changing all the time. Everyone will have some problems with their tank and they will probably blame it on LEDS..

I would recomend a splash guard over the leds because they will get corroted fast (it happened to me).

Hey Alan, how are the birdsnests doing?

I have a cheap china made 3 doser pump called marinecolor and it works great on my nano.

Genius,l

Here is my recent build: http://wamas.org/forums/topic/60223-diy-led-fixture-jarduino/

I recently got most of my parts from ledgroupbuy.com check them out. For my heatsink, since I have a cube tank, I chose a heatsinkusa.com squared shape one. Cree or Luxeon are both very good. I chose CREE because thats what LEDgroupBuy has... Moonlight is a personal choice, I chosed a warm white led, other people use red too.... Make sure you get a very wide optic such as a 90 or even a 120 degree.. UV is not needed but "HyperViolet" is IMO is necesary because it provides a different spectrum and provides very good coral growth. When building a led fixture, make sure you have a mixture of warm whites, neutral whites, red, cyan, royal blue, blue and hyper violet so that you cover all the light spectrum... Check out my project build for ideas.