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Boret

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Everything posted by Boret

  1. I see it for $699.99 with the 18-55mm IS lens. Which is not a bad deal. They even throw a 2GB memory card. Here is the link: http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?...&lang=en-US
  2. Eric, I still see it at $899.99 at COSTCO.com Is the price $799.99 at a local COSTCO? Thanks for the heads up. I am sure someone in the market for it would appreciate it.
  3. Can't wait to figure out all the manual options for Video. There are a few neat features. For anyone considering a DSLR ... I end up picking up whatever was convenient in my case. I know that if I bought the DSLR I was going to end up spending a bunch of money on a macro lens and better zoom, even a 50mm lens. On top of that I would probably end up not taking the camera with me therefore missing the opportunity to catch some memorable moments. The FZ35 seems to be the camera for us, but it doesn't come close to the picture quality you get out of a DSLR.
  4. Having moved one myself I can tell you that you only need 2 people to move it
  5. I end up getting the Panasonic DMC-FZ35 from amazon.com for a bit over $300. I also added an extra battery for $11, UV lens protector $6, Case Logic Bag $10 and a Class 6 SDHC 16GB Card for $40. This is a video I took of the tank: Try to watch the HD version. That is hand held on auto. No tweaking or tripod video yet. I messed around with the Focus button in a few frames. So far I am very pleased with the purchase. I understand the camera will never achieve the level of quality of a DSLR. But I get decent Leica lens with 18x Optical zoom, 1 cm macro, in a fairly small and portable package and my wife gets an easy to use Point&Shoot with great Video capabilities. It records sound in Stereo and has fast focusing while filming.
  6. I have the same thing happening to a couple of my corals. It started when I added the Vortech MP40W. I think they were happier with the flow before. :( Make sure you didn't change your flow or lights or something like that. The messed up thing is that it is happening to my green slimmer that looks otherwise super healthy. As a matter of fact it is growing new tips all over but RTNing at the base. We just know very little about coral diseases.
  7. I use both ffaquatics.com Carbon and GFO mixed in a Nextreef MR1 reactor. Since I use them (over a year) I have not seen any algae in my tank. I am sure is also a combination of things such as better flow and a decent size cleaning crew, but my phosphates are undetectable and my water pretty clear and I don't use any mechanical filtration or socks. The ROX carbon is double the price and I just don't think it doubles the performance. Send David (dschflier) a msg and I am sure he can hook you up with a good deal. At the very least Carbon is a must in any aquarium. Many chemical issues will require the use of Carbon (such as coral wars, die-off, or Red Bug/AEFW treatments, etc.) and having a decent amount handy is always a good idea.
  8. Thanks David! 54 or 92... doesn't really matter, the setup is what will provide you with some ideas. If you are ever in Fairfax let me know. I am home in the evenings after 7pm.
  9. I want first in line for a frag once it acclimates to your tank!
  10. I just reread the thread and Dshnarw already had a long post (page 2) about this megazoom cameras. The FZ35 was not available yet and I think is an option that fits better my camera usage. We will see if I hit or not the purchase button on amazon in the next few days
  11. So after several months of playing around with DSLR I am now debating if I should just go for a superzoom point and shoot instead. The new Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ35 seems a very capable camera, it has great macro and zoom capabilities, Leica lense, very decent video recording and an attractive price @ $300+. HERE you can find a full review of the camera. With the DSLR I am looking at well over $1,000 to get the same functions. Probably much more if I want the zoom and macro. Now, I understand that a DSLR will always provide much better pictures at low light and will have undoubtly better quality overall. But I am not a photographer and will hardly ever carry the bag with all the lenses. Can I justify the expenditure? I don't think so. With the Panasonic i get a decent camera, with a good lens in a "smaller" package, way more portable and with nice HD video recording so I don't need to buy a camcorder. Have any of you by any chance played around with this camera? It competes with the Nikon P90, Canon SX1 & SX20, Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX1, Pentax X70, etc... The Canon SX1 is almost $600 so that is out, and the Nikon doesn't perform as well as the Panasonic from what I read in the reviews. I also dislike the 4 AA batteries on the Canon versus the Lithium battery on the Panasonic. I can get the FZ35 with 16GB card and spare battery for $360 (shipped). For that kind of money I can only get a refurbished D40 or Canon XS without video or zoom or macro.
  12. I use a distributor (manifold) off the return from a Reeflo Dart to run all the returns. I go from Dart to 1. Return, 2. Chiller, 3. Fuge, 4. Frag Tank, 5. Media Reactor, 6. Spare. I use valves in all the outputs so I can control the flow, therefore achieving the amount of flow that I need to keep the media moving. When the sponges in the media reactor are brand new I have to dial down the flow, and as it gets clogged I keep increasing it. I used to have pumps for everything, but I like the simplicity of using a single external pump to run everything. It also keeps the temp of the water cooler by being external. I have the pump in a semi remote location, underneath the stairs, so the noise from the external pump is not an issue, but I wouldn't stand the noise in the same room. You can see the setup in this picture. I didn't have the frag tank in place yet and I have modified a few things but its pretty much the same thing.
  13. I just thought that the rhythm went along with the fluidized motion of the pelletize media.... I should stop smoking the GFO!
  14. I mix both in the same reactor. 1 part GFO to about 6-7 parts CARBON. You can see a video of my reactor in action here:
  15. NICE!!! That tank is packed!!! Time for an upgrade.
  16. I am with you on this Chucelli, I just thought that everyone should be aware of what's going on in that front. Will not stop me from building anything, just kind of like full disclosure type of deal. You are right, let's keep the thread focused on building LED fixtures. What do you think of these guys? RapidLED
  17. Good guesses, here is an article by Justin on Gonioporas: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2
  18. I think you are getting fantastic growth, I can't get my Cali Tort to grow that much!
  19. that's what I thought... Read this http://glassbox-design.com/2009/patents-10...s-diy-infringe/
  20. I don't know what it is, but it looks cool!
  21. The SCWDs are a bit of a pain. They clog too often, and after a while stop working altogether. They are cheap, but you really get what you pay for. I recommend to use an OceansMotions for the close loop. The regular 4 Way is close to $400, however, you can get the Ocean Motions Squirt for about $165. You wouldn't run the OM Squirt with the Dart, unless you add a bypass: If you do the bypass then you can use the Dart for the close loop and the return and avoid the Mag. Otherwise get a quiet external 1000-1200 gph pump for the Close loop and a different pump for the return. I use the Dart, and I like it, but it is not a quiet pump. I use a Little Giant for the close loop, which is quieter than the Dart. All my pumps are in a separate room, so the noise is not a big issue, but I know for sure I wouldn't be able to stand the motor noise if it was in the same room. As far as the overflow.... just drill, its cleaner and safer (HOB Overflows fail) and takes way less space in the tank. You could drill 2 x 1.5" holes on the left and right back top corners for overflow, and then 2 x 1" holes around the middle (3/4 up) for the Close loop. The thicker the glass the easier it is to drill. Or do as Zygote2k said and get a Reef Ready tank. I am not crazy about the space the internal overflow take, but I prefer that over a HOB overflow. I think it really pays to think about your plumbing. Take your time, look at other people's setups, think about the best way to accomplish what you want, and think about the future... meaning that you might not be using a Media Reactor now, or a chiller, or a UV or an Ozone Reactor, etc... but you might, and a powerful return pump with a distributor will save you a ton in extra pumps to run everything. Think about the advantages of the close loop versus investing in better power heads. You can get a couple of Vortecs MP40w for about $800 new, and about $600-660 used. Those will move enough water in your tank and produce plenty of random flow, and all you need then is a return that moves about 800 to 1000 gallons per hour at most. You really don't want to move water too rapidly through your sump. Good luck with the new tank and welcome to WAMAS!!
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