Boret

Welcome to WAMAS and Happy Thanksgiving!

Thanks Robert! I am thinking about LED light for my frag tank. If it works I might have to do something similar for my main tank! After reading the while RC thread, and after some searches I found a couple of interesting things: 1. We are all breaking IP laws by making these because the $%$/& at Orbital have a Patent on LED lights over an aquarium even though they are not building anything. I hope the judge will make the right call and throw their claim out of the window. We will have to see the result of Orbital vs. PFO. This is PFOs Patent application: PFO and this is Orbital's actual registered patent. 2. Besides Ducati's and Ferrari's, the Italians have a thing or two to say on Aquarium design. Look at this beautiful LED fixture: You can see their whole catalog in English HERE. 3. It seems that heat is more of an issue on the White LEDs than the Blues. As a matter of fact you only lose 5% on the blues when they get in the really hot range (120 degrees) versus the 20% to 30% you lose on the whites at those temperatures. This might influence the actual design of the DIY fixture. You will need more passive heat dissipation on the whites.

That's a great picture for a cell phone pic!

Nice piece!!! I want a frag... we are both in Fairfax! Lets make it happen

As far as over skim ... I am no expert on this, I am writing from what I have read when I researched skimmers a while back, the issue seems to be that a skimmer rated way above your tank volume will have trouble keeping the foam going because it will go through the protein in your water column faster. So it will be idle often and overtime not perform as well as a skimmer more closely match to you water volume that will keep a steady production of skimmate. As I said, no expert on this subject, just my opinion from what I have gathered online.

Most of the manufacturer's suggestions are a bit far fetched. So if you have a 100gal system go for the one rated at 150-200 by the manufacturer. Other builders are more honest (i.e.GSA) and will give you more accurate numbers. I am using a 300gal rated skimmer in a 180-190 gal system and it is doing great.

This is the BIN on the dealextreme: 00XREWHT-L1-WG-Q5-0-01 Based on CREE specs that makes it the highest LM White (Q5 = 228LM at 1A) and White Chromaticity Region Bounding Coordinates (WG) within this range: _ x __ y .329 .369 .329 .345 .316 .332 .314 .355 I really don't understand the White Chromaticity Region Bounding Coordinates, but it "seems" the right one. At $5.36 with the Premium Star seems a good deal.

What about the deal they have on the optics?? A pack of 5 for $3.94 and FREE shipping! LINK

Good link. This seems a great deal for the LEDs: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

Thx Tony!

Check also the chemistry of the Salt you use. Some of them will have low levels of Boron, Potassium, etc, to start with, so the water change won't do much to improve those numbers. I didn't know the effect of Boron on dkh, thx for the info Coral Hind. There was an article comparing different salts, I will try to find it. Potassium will help improve "blue" coloration. Not sure on it though, just what I read on the Brightwell Potassium bottle. I think Chip makes really good points. I didn't think of it that way. If you were to get the water tested at a professional lab... how much would it cost? Maybe someone might know.... If the guys at AWT are just using slightly better grade test kits than what we use.... well kudos to them for a great business plan (while it lasts) but two thumbs down for a crappy service. I really want to believe that they have good and accurate testing equipment. I wanted to do the 4 test deal, to check the status of my tank water, test my results against theirs and track more accurately the levels in my water. Thanks for sharing your results bcjm.

Thanks man!!! I know.... I am horrible with the names... I go for whatever looks nice! I keep a list of everything I have, but I can hardly point at a piece in my tank based on the name, besides the "Blue coral", the "green coral", the "orange coral", the "one I won at that raffle coral", the "why don't you grow coral", etc... At least I remember the fish names! At some point I want to catalog everything... I wanted to take a close up picture, and create 1 pagers with information, name, care, compatibilities, etc... I just have not done it yet!

Beautiful!!!

It probably is... maybe it is the FF LE Jacqueline's Favia!

3 things that come to mind.... one is that your test kit is not that reliable. Two, maybe the time between taking the sample and actually testing it had an effect on the Ca (some kind of precipitation because of a reduction of pH, temp, agitation of the vial on transit to AWT, etc...). You could try to take a test vial, fill it up with water, let it sit closed and in the dark for 24 to 48hrs and test Ca with your test kit, see if you get the same result as AWT. Three, the AWT test are not reliable. Other than the Ca, your numbers look great. I am affraid of sending my water and get some crazy numbers.

I got it from F&F. I think the name is FF LE Jacqueline's Chalice (After Sean & Angelique's daughter)

What's the pH of the Ca Reactor effluent?

A few more pics:

Thanks for the pic Dave. That's what mine looks like! Another close up:

I guess I need an Oregon Tort now!

I can see massive RTN and bleach out of my corals in my near future!!! LOL Just kidding, I am looking forward to it Dan. When am I picking up the beast?

Are you running any Active Carbon? If it is chemical warfare that is one of the options, besides water changes.

AWESOME DIY project!!! Great work. Thank you for sharing and the excellent documentation. I am also interested is cost like Brian.

My zoas were melting because my Alk was in the 11-12 range. I lowered and now at around 8 I see growth again. Maybe check the alkalinity see where you are. I was getting high alk off the bat with new saltwater using Reef Crystals salt. I changed to the Brightwell NeoMarine, and I have been pretty happy with the results.

Go for the replacement, for $12 is not that bad... are they covering the shipping? What about going back to a regular pin wheel?