Boret

You understood correctly. The Dart pump, being flow biased, allows you to throttle the amount of flow. As a matter of fact if you use a valve at the output and throttle it down a bit you will not only reduce the GPH but also the watts the motor consumes. It also means that the more restrictions a Dart encounters the less GPH. A Tarpoon or one of the pressure bias pumps will increase the velocity of the water to keep the flow. So any reduction in the diameter of the pipe, or throttleling the output will increase the velocity of the water. You use a Dart to move a large volume of water at moderate to low velocity with a plumbing design that won't put a lot of head pressure. You use a Tarpoon or a pressure bias pump when you need to travel a long distance or you need to move water up several feet. For example if you have the sump in a basement and the display tank in a first floor. As you can see, the Dart has a 2" intake and a 1.5" output. You want to avoid any restriction for the intake, straight 2" pipe from the sump into the pump, and then you can have a valve after the pump to control flow. To answer your question, YES you can add a valve between the Dart and the OM4.

If you scroll a bit down you have two more buttons, one labeled "Fast Reply" and another one labeled "Add Reply", either one will allow you to reply to the thread without quoting.

Remove that teflon tape right away. That's not the way to attach the bulk head. The only thing that prevents the water from leaking is the gasket that is inside the tank. The Teflon is actually impeding you to screw the bulkhead tightly against the glass. Remove the water, a few inches below the hole. Remove the bulkhead and examine the gasket to make sure its not broken. Clean the area where the gasket sits against the glass in the inside, make sure its perfectly clean, no coraline of any specs of dirt. You can use a clean rug with vinager and a razor blade. Like in this picture, the gasket stays in the inside, and the glass goes in the gap between the gasket and the screw.

I have a bunch of plastic clamps I bought from Home Depot and I use them all over the place to secure tubes, probes and the heaters. I just clamp the cable to the wall of the sump with the plastic clamp to keep the top of the the heater above the water. I use this type of clamp:

Also.... by running with no drum you mean to connect the Dart directly into the four returns with a distributor right??? I don't think you can run the OM4 without a drum. The Dart is flow bias and not pressure bias so you can throttle the output to the desired GPH to allow smooth operation of the OM4.

Maybe too much flow into the OM4?? What about installing a bypass like they recommend with the squirt?

Can you take pictures?? You are not supposed to put teflon on the bulkhead thread. And I am having trouble understanding what the bulkhead has to do with the RO. You quoted the RO filter crack in your small leak comment... are we talking about the same leak? The bulkhead, the one you use when you make a hole in the glass, has a plastic gasket that goes in the inside of the tank. Bulkhead > Gasket > Glass > Bulkhead screw. You are supposed to hand tight it, or too much pressure could break the glass. Then the bulkhead (in the inside) is either threaded or slip. If it is threaded and you are attaching a male threaded piece of PVC then you can (should) use Teflon tape. If it is slip then you need to glue the PVC with PVC cement. If you can take a few pictures we might be able to understand better what the problem is. Good luck!

Hi sailfintang, Welcome to WAMAS!! I picked up the Ozone Reactor from Dan this weekend. It is awesome!!! I want to publicly thank Dan for the amount of work and research he has put into this piece of equipment and all the help and advice he has so far given me. This is a much, much better piece of equipment and Ozone delivery mechanism than my original idea of transforming the Skimmer for that purpose. We are working on a small leak but that should be resolved shortly (probably produce by my incompetence setting it up), and Dan has already thought of improvements in the design to make it bullet proof. We are at a testing stage and the next few months will be critical to fine tune the device. So far the reactor performed great, keeping at close to 3 psi inside the chamber until the small leak developed. The reactor receives the water at the Top where it hits a perforated round acrylic plate that makes the water trickle down into the biobale. Also at the top there are 2 nipples, one to introduce Ozone and the other as a pressure relief valve. There is also a pressure gauge to keep track of PSI inside the reactor. At the bottom, a 90 degree elbow, receives the water and through a valve goes out of the reactor, in my case into a Carbon reactor. The valve allows you to setup the appropriate back pressure and control the water level inside the chamber. The trick is to achieve the proper water flow and pressure. There are 3 things affecting this equilibrium: 1. Water coming in. The amount we are working with now is around 100 gph. 2. Ozone into the reactor. Working with a Luft pump rated at a max of 5 psi. Some pressure gets lost from the pump until it reaches the reactor. 3. Output valve at the bottom of the reactor into the carbon reactor. This is the main valve used to achieve the equilibrium. I have two types of air dryers. The first one, the one that comes with the Red Seas Ozonizer is worthless for a pressure bias application of Ozone. It pretty much pops open as the air pressure increases, even at the lowest setting in the Luft air pump. I am using that one with active carbon, to filter the air/water (a few drops per second) coming from the relief valve. I have a different dryer, a cylinder made of plastic, which screws at both ends. This one wasn't completely air tight and the pressure was expanding the plastic at the ends letting air come out before it even reached the ozonizer. I applied several layers of Teflon tape at the threaded ends and I have a semi tight air dryer now. Nonetheless, a different design for the air dryer is necessary from the commercially available. BRS sells one that might work better. I am using ozone resistant tubing all the way from the air pump to the reactor, and from the relief valve into the small carbon container. I wonder if rigid tubing all the way to the ozonizer might help maintain the air pressure. The water out of the reactor travels through neoprene tubing into the Carbon Reactor. I check with NextReef, the manufacturer of my MR1 Media Reactor to make sure all the materials were Ozone safe. Even the sponges are ozone safe, but the guys at NextReef send me a few more in different thicknesses and material to test out. I also use an air check valve in between the ozonizer and the reactor to avoid water flowing back when the air pump is off. One of the issues I see with a PVC chamber is the impossibility to see the amount of water inside the reactor. I have no idea how would you go about adjusting the water flow, back pressure, etc. without seeing the water level. The idea is to provide more contact surface and time to the water in the reactor with the supplied ozone, therefore the use of the biobale. Dan explained previously the advantages of the pressurized chamber as opposed to a non-pressurized one. If you go with PVC I am fairly certain that you won't be able to go the pressurize route. I will add pictures of the setup shortly.

Thanks Dan. I put a liberal amount of PVC cement, still drying. I will give it 48 hrs to cure and test. You are right, tap and screw might be the way to go. Every other seal its in great shape. I will update with pics once it cures.

The Weld-On cured OK and it was sealed but the Ozone ate it away. Maybe the PVC cement will be more resistant.

I spoke to Dan and he recommended to put a thick bead of PVC cement as the glue was already Weld-On but it seems is not that resistant to Ozone. If it doesn't work I will take you up on the offer JM.

I have a leak in a connection of a SCH80 pipe into an Acrylic lid. Ozone ate away the glue!!! I was wondering what can I use to seal it again. Would PVC cement do the trick? Or do I need to get one of the Weld-Ons? I just need enough to cover seal a 1/2" pipe so it seems a waste order a whole can of Weld-On. If Weld-On is the only why to go.... anyone close to Fairfax has some that I can use just to seal it? Thanks!

That's pretty sick!! I have trouble figuring out the right PVC dimensions to avoid cavitation and look what that guy can do! LOL

No problem guys. The other thing that we should probably have in the forum is how to setup the Router and ACIII to be able to access it from outside your home network. If you have the signature you already figured it out but I get asked quite often to help with the networking part. Maybe, what we could do is to post how each one of us have done it for each router. For example, I have FIOS and I use a Linksys WRT54G router. I can post the specific instructions of my router.

Don't change it... I was messing with ya! I actually like it. Very original. Mine is getting crowded. I will change it soon, make it wider. Plus now with the new fonts you can get creative.

Well... the iPhone allows you to turn things on and off. I find myself using the iPhone over the ACIII because its faster than going through the menus with the bottons. I always end up starting the feeding cycle LOL.

LOL!!! That's a bright signature!

A good article on heaters: http://www.beananimal.com/articles/aquariu...-know!.aspx

I didn't know about the light. Not sure if my stealth has a light either. How is the performance?

Bali Green Slimmer Growth: March 2009 July 2009 November 2009 Larger picture:

Justin pointed this one out on a different thread: It's the Hydor ETH In-Line Heater in 200, 250 and 300 watt versions. Around $50. I've seen them for as little as $40 and free shipping for the 300. A couple of problems, you can only treat max 75 gal with 1 300W heater, so I need 2 maybe even 3 for my 180 gal system, and you need to run water through it, so either run it with a split from your return or dedicate a pump for it. I wonder if I could run three of them in series.... hmmm?

Bob, I think John is working on a reply to your sale idea with one of his fingers.... too bad he can't post THAT here

What about Iodine Tincture or Povidone Iodine Ointment Are those useless in this scenario? I understand the need to use gloves, even though it will have to be something tougher than latex. The large thick gloves tend to be too large and you end up making a mess in the tank. Which brings me to a question about cleaning hands: I tend to not clean the hands at all when I am messing with the tank because I never know when I am done putting my hands in the water. I know, I should keep them out but you know how it is..... Anyway, I don't use cream or lotions of any kind in my hands and I normally clean them up with straight water out of the faucet and dry them thoroughly. But I was wondering if there is any type of soup that you could use. For example, Unscented Lye Soap or Fragrance Free Glycerin soap. I like Lye soap better because its ingredients are just Lard, Water and Lye (sodium hydroxide). No other additives. My mother makes soap back home in Spain and I always bring a bar or two. Mainly because I didn't know where to buy it here! Do you guys see any problem cleaning my hands with that soap, rinsing thoroughly and then sticking the hands back in the tank?

Phew, close one. Did the doctor say anything about what to do after getting the cut? Would treating with Iodine help? Besides going to the doctor of course.

Make sure the rubber gasket of the bulkhead is in the inside of the tank not the outside. Hand tight, don't use a wrench to tighten it. Make sure you don't put extra weight on the bulkhead by making it hold all the PVC weight. Do you have any pictures or drawn designs of what you want to do? That might help us with the advice.