Coral Hind

Have you tried to contact the company? Their website only shows the larger frozen packs. Maybe get one of the large ones and split it up with friends.

For a FOWLR, I don't see where the HOB bio-balls would hurt. The prefilters will prevent the clogging but if it clogs or not the surface area will colonize with nitrifying bacteria which will process the ammonia and nitrite into nitrates. Some people think that the clogging creates nitrate issues but that is not true. Because of the high O2 exchange around the normal bio-ball system it prevents denitrifying bacteria, which like low O2 environments, from colonizing. So the normal bio-balls setup is no help in removing nitrates, that's where water changes come in. If you need a system that quickly removes large ammonia and nitrites then nothing really works better than bio-balls. Systems that benefit from bio-balls are fish only systems with messy eaters or fish with large waste. However, in the average coral tank the bio-balls are not needed if ample live rock is available. The purpose of the skimmer is to remove as much waste as possible before it can break down to something that bacteria can remove.

Below is something I had typed up in an old thread. It might have some useful info for you. I think it is wise to understand the maturing, pairing process, and submissive behaviors of clowns to prevent or properly identify a bad situation. Below is probably more information then what most need but here it is anyways. Sex changes 1. Clownfish are protandrous hermaphrodites. They are hatched as sexually immature fish. Based on signals from their environment and being physically mature after 12-24 months they will either remain sexually immature, change into a male or change into a male then female. This is a one way trip, sexless to male never to be sexless again and male to female never to be male again. 2. A clownfish kept by its self will become a female in a short period of time if it is physically mature, in as little as a month. 3. Two female clowns will fight. The tell tale sign that you have two females is fighting ending in the two locking their mouths together. We are not talking about the normal love bites and taps here. Pairing techniques There are a couple of proven techniques to pair same species of clownfish. 1. Grow out technique: With this technique two small juvenile clownfish are purchased at the same time and introduced into the tank at the same time. The fish will establish a dominate submissive relationship as they mature and eventually form a pair bond. This technique works the vast majority of the time. Notes: Since the fish are going to fight and/or chase each other to establish who is the dominate fish and who is the submissive fish, it will often speed the pairing process and reduce fighting and potential damage to the fish by getting one of the two juveniles larger than the other. The smaller will quickly give up to the larger one. This technique should not be applied to Premnas species (maroon) clownfish as they are aggressive and will still fight. 2. Add a new clownfish to an existing clownfish technique: With having an existing clownfish in your tank adding a new clownfish to form a pair can be a little harder or in other words more dangerous to the new fish. The technique is basically the same as the grow out technique. You will want to find a small juvenile clownfish and add it to the tank with the existing fish. By getting a small juvenile fish you are not risking possible sex compatibility problems, i.e. two females. Example: Existing A. Ocellaris clownfish that has been in the tank by it's self for over a year. We can assume this fish is a female based on size, age and environment. A 3/4" to 1-1/2" juvenile from a community tank is added to the tank. The vast majority of the time the new fish will submit to the existing fish with little or no fighting at all. This technique should not be applied to Premnas species (maroon) clownfish as they are aggressive and will still fight. 3. Pairing Premnas species clownfish (maroon clownfish): Pairing maroon clowns is much more problematic than pairing Amphiprion species clownfish. Maroons are notorious for being very aggressive towards other clownfish. They are pretty much fearless and will only back down from an all out fight when presented with the overwhelming threat of death. Separation Technique: The only technique I am aware of that works the vast majority of the time with the least amount of damage as possible is to use a separation and slow acclimation process to introduce a potential mate to a maroon clownfish. First you need to have a large female already established in your tank before trying a pairing. The clownfish should be at least 3" from nose to start of the cardinal fin. Next you will need to do a little preparation before buying a potential mate for your maroon. You need something to securely separate the two fish in the same tank while still allowing the fish to see each other and the new fish to get water flow. You can use a clear plastic specimen container with holes drilled in it for example. Now go to the LFS and find the smallest juvenile maroon from a community tank that you can find. It should be no larger than 1" from nose to start of cardinal fin. Acclimate the new maroon just as you would any other fish. Once the new maroon is acclimated to your tanks water, place the new maroon in the specimen container. Let the two fish see each other, place the specimen container near the females territory. Carefully watch the female's behavior. If she is trying to attack the new fish through the container, it is not safe to release the new maroon. Give her time to cool off from the disruption to her tank and addition of a foreign clownfish in her tank. Now that the female has cooled her temper it is time to try an introduction. Get your favorite fish net ready and release the new maroon to the tank. If the fighting gets too bad you will need to rescue the new maroon and place it back in the container and try the next day. If after three failed attempts you can write off the new maroon as incompatible and you will need a new juvenile to try with. Understanding submissive behavior in clownfish: As a part of pairing you need to know what submissive behavior is. You will know that you are well on your way to a successful pairing when one fish submits to the other fish. This is especially important behavior to observe in maroon clownfish. Amphiprion and Premnas species submissive behavior goes something like this. First the dominate fish will rush or otherwise attack the submissive fish. The submissive fish will turn sideways to the dominate fish and tilt its belly towards the dominate fish and quiver like an epileptic seizure. The female should recognize this behavior and stop the attack short of actual damage. Sometimes in new pairings and old well established pair bonds the dominate fish will move to a parallel position to the submissive and quiver back to the submissive fish. In Maroon clowns there is an additional submissive behavior that is unique to maroons. When the submissive fish is rushed or otherwise attacked it/he will duck the attack, slip to the side of the female and tenderly kiss her cheek spines and pectoral fins of his beloved female. Signs that you have a pair bond in your clownfish: There are a couple of signs that a pair bond has formed and is maturing in your clownfish in addition to submissive behavior. Typically mated pairs (pairs that have a pair bond) will sleep in the same area. They will also host in the same host or stay in the same territory if there is no natural host present. The two fish will stay close to each other the vast majority of the time. The pair bond is a developing thing. It starts out as a general acceptance of each other. Then slowly develops into a closer relationship were both fish are together most of the time. There is a bickering phase too where the female will make sure the male knows who is the boss. During this time it is not uncommon to find the poor little dejected male cowering near their normal host/territory. But don't worry this is normal and the male will be accepted back sooner or later. The ultimate end of the pair bond is seen in a spawning event such as nest cleaning or laying of eggs. Some information taken from "Clownfishes" by Joyce Wilkerson. This is a great little book if you are thinking of raising clownfish.

Very nice looking!

That boy is big! You wouldn't have any issues with phosphates and nitrates with that in the tank. Calcium might be hard to maintain.

She is probably still in the sand where she feels safe. She might be popping out while you're not around. It wouldn't hurt anything if you gently move the sand to search for her. She will probably dart out and hide somewhere else. I had a yellow coris that I didn't see for about three months but while moving a rock he popped out of the sand and to my surprise it looked healthy. I don't know when or what it was eating.

A long time ago, back in 2008, we held a benefit auction to raise money for the cancer center tanks. It might be worth doing another one to raise money to help replace the old systems. The old auction thread is below. http://wamas.org/forums/topic/26917-benefit-for-childrens-center-for-cancer/

I would set a skimmer up that can recirc the air on the skimmer. That cuts evap rates a good bit. I am willing to help with donations. Just let me know what the plan is and what items are needed.

I never mounted mine in a box but that would work. I just screwed it under the stand using the center hole in it. If you do use a box a plastic box might be better so it doesn't rust. Just remember to cut the small wire on the front unless you are switching low voltage.

You simply add the unit in series on the hot wire. I used a short cord and cut the hot, which is normally black, and then crimped on terminal ends. Then place each end on each terminal. There is a small wire on the front of the unit that you need to cut if you are using 120v, which most will be using. Once you cut the small blue wire in half to open that circuit, just safely tape that wire up and put it out of the way as I did in the picture.

It's a zoanthid.

Welcome back to hobby. You've probably noticed a lot has changed in 10 years! It is possible to go sumpless but I for one love a sump. It offers a place to hide things like heaters, reactors, and skimmers while also giving you more room in the tank. Sumps also offer an easy way to surface skim off that bio-film which can build up.

Not all wrasses in the three groups you listed can be generalized as having the same temperament. Some fairy wrasses are peaceful while others can be aggressive to other wrasses. Of all the wrasses I've ever kept the most consistently peaceful, and in order of most peaceful, have been; Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus, Cirrhilabrus lubbocki, Cirrhilabrus solorensis, and Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura.

Depending on size, they normally go for about $40-$60 in the member's for sale area. We have it lucky here in the DC area since there are so many that have been propagated and passed around that the price is much lower than in other places of the country. Just remember to list your for sale items in the member's only area.

I don't think it is enough to kill them, probably just causes pain like when the lionfish stick us. Just a bad wasp sting. To a grouper the pain might be worth the easy catch of a fat meal.

Really nice, but I'm not sure it is $1500 nice!

That was pretty cool. I agree it did herd it out of the cave. Once in open water the lionfish ascended while always keeping the spines toward the grouper. The grouper looked to already have scars on his face from other lionfish spines. Hopefully this grouper passes on the hunting trait to other groupers.

Do you have an extra mogul socket? All I need is the socket or a junk fixture to remove the socket from.

Wow, I didn't know they could move so fast. The crab didn't put up a fight.

Correct 12 sqft. The pressure doesn't just sit on three joists as some of it is spread out via the floor decking to the nearby joists. 10' is a short span so that is in your favor.

How far is the span? Distance from one end of the joist to the other as it sits either on an outside wall, load bearing wall, or steel beam.

How far is the span?

They are called, engineered wood I joists. Very common and they help to reduce floor squeaking because they don't flex or shrink.

Somethings missing. You should have put the nut on the tubing, then put the tapered brass ferrule on the tubing, then push in the insert, then install all that onto the adapter.

Did you put the brass insert in the tubing?