ridetheducati

Duff, What is the distance from the water surface to the top of your canopy/ceiling? In my example, there are 28" from water surface to the mounting point on the ceiling. The LA3 is 9" tall so worst case, I can mount that reflector bulb 21" off the water. To fully support the width (36") of a 300DD tank the Elites and Lumenbrights mounting height probably starts at 16-18" off the water. I seen a set of Elites over a 300DD and the guy had to raise the reflectors to 20" to minimize the hot spot and even out the spread. I was surprised and impressed with the Elite reflectors ability to punch down low.

Graham, Are you running the Lumantek on super lumens?

72Lx36Wx27H

For those monitoring this thread and contemplating Metal Halide, the below is a best practice... Determine the Metal Halide bulb(s) you plan to use and then select the ballast and reflector. 1. Bulb 2. Ballast, and then 3. Reflector.

Numbers are based on Sanjay's work. I always run the Lumatek with the super lumen setting. Visually, the performance is nearly identical to a PFO or Blueline magnetic HQI ballast. The normal 400 setting on Lumatek does not overdrive the Radium or any other bulb. I use the normal 400w setting when I run the XM. And of course, I can only run Radiums for nine months. Maybe the Lumenbrights will wake up the 250w Radiums, but I am confident that bulb does not perform well in a LA3 reflector.

I agree. Bulbs with low PPFD (less than 100) need assistance from a torch style reflector. A 250w Iwasaki matched with a Lumenmax Elite would burn a hole through the bottom of the tank. I originally planned to use Lumenbrights, but was afraid that I would need to raise the fixtures 22" off the water surface when I only have 21" available.

The 400w Radium is the gold standard and I have never had a need for supplemental lighting. I do not run supplemental when I run 10k bulbs either. However, most hobbyist do supplement with VHO, T5, or LED. I thought about running the Blue LEDs, but the LA3 reflectors take up too much space.

If you can manage the heat, four Radium 400w is the way. I would only run 250w Radiums if I wanted to SLOW down the growth process. I currently have 2 of 3 400w Radiums mounted as I am monitoring the heat. Will probably mount the third MH next weekend. Radium 250w - PPFD:85 Radium 400w - PPFD:147

I can claim success when I can use 3D printing to manage my reef.

Under my eyes, the 400w Radium/M80 combination looks better than the 250w combination. 400w Radium has that ice-blue look.

Initially I was not going to remount my MH, but I have been collecting more and more high-end SPS corals and do not want the LEDs to change the colors. For example, my Del Fuego is not holding its color and I need to protect my investment.

Good write-up. FYI, I am going to mount Lumenbright/Lumatex in September.

How many GPH can the drains accommodate?

Strongly encourage a professional engineer structural assessment for systems over 120 gallons setup on first and second floors. $200-$300

I would setup the 120 in the basement for the purposes of collecting and growing corals that excite you. Setup the main display after the first floor is reconfigured. If possible, plan for a six foot tank.

Use the Salifert Potassium test kit. The Red Sea version is a death by a thousand cuts.

Nikon D3200 with Tamron 90 Macro.

Photography is my new hobby; lens lust in full effect. Shot in RAW. Some photos are slightly under exposed.

Bali Tri-Color Miyagi Tort Hawkins Setosa Pro Coral Red Planet

Red Dragon Encrusting Montipora Sunset Montipora Watermelon Mille PearlBerry Grand

Nothing comes free.

Are the tanks glass or acrylic?

I started to get the D5200 but really want to learn how to manipulate light first. All my shoots are in manual.

Working out the D3200, about to pull the trigger on a macro (Tamron 90mm or Nikon 105mm).