jnguyen4007

If I have to guess, I would say yes only because arc fault and GFCI work differently. But then again, I'm not an electrician.

I found this link. It's pretty interesting. We recently installed 2 20 amps breaker and the outlets that connects to them are GFCI. Now I'm thinking that we might have to install these instead. http://www.askthebuilder.com/320_New_Arc_F...e_Of_Mind.shtml

Chris, Do you keep them separate in the same chamber or do you put your carbon somewhere else?

I run mine with about an inch or two of carbon on top of the phosban. I read that you don't want the phosban to get stirred up too much inside the chamber and that you only want enough water pushing through to where you can see a bit of activity and that's it. That's how I do mine. Though I do like Origami's idea of separating the carbon from the phosban so you can do more frequent carbon changes.

From what I recently read, the best way to get rid of the green hair algae is: remove what you can by hand, do your water change regularly, reduce the amount of nutrients, and give it time. If you replace the amount of water evaporation with the same amount of RODI water, then there should not be a rise in salinity. The only way for your salinity to continue to rise over time is if you been adding salt water to replace the water loss from evaporation or if your refractometer calibration is off. Assuming that your water level is where it should be and that your refractometer is calibrated correctly and it still shows your tank's water salinity high, take some of that water out of your tank, and replace it with more fresh rodi water than what you take out. I'd suggest continue to do that gradually and slowly so your livestock can get adjusted until you can reduce the salinity down to the normal range again around 1.025. As for whether or not you should use UV. I use it and so does a lot of people. Make sure the bulb is good and clean.

it all depends on the tank's manufacturer. some tanks have the bottom tempered, some have the bottoms and the back and some don't have tempered glass at tall.

My citron goby sits on it all the time. The first few times, it would close up, now it doesn't seem to care.

sure. you can buy a HOB overflow and set it up that way.

You can get a food safe container like those used to hold dog food at petsmart or petco to hold your water for top off. I have a 30 gal tank so for my salt water changes, I use a 5 gal drum from lowes with a lid. Often I have to mix couple of batches for my water change, but it's fine for now. When I upgrade mine to a 180, I'll most likely have to find a brute trash can for that.

Ideally, you should always have a container to mix your salt water and have your salt water ready when you do your next water change or mix it at that point, and a container of ro/di water for your top off.

Brian, I like how you did yours. That is a really cool way of doing it.

I'm like edkruzel. I see food, I eat. LOL Love fish, shrimps, crabs, oysters, etc....

You can go to any LFS in the area and they should have it. I think the price is somewhere between 2 to 4 for 5 gal and if you want RO/DI, it's a bit more. Unless you're not planning on keeping your cube for more than a few months, you should really consider buying an RO/DI for you to use. If you run it yourself, you know for sure the quality of the water that you get. Buying it from LFS, you don't know when was the last time they changed their filter and such. Over time, it also be cheaper too. People always have their stuff on sale so you can find a used RO/DI for cheap as well. Just a thought.

I have 5 eheim 200W heaters and 1 100W eheim heater. The 200W been running for over 2 years now. My cousins had their 200W heaters for as long as 15 years with no problem. I have 1 Pro Heat II 300W titanium heater that I bought from Bruce and it's been working fine with no problem. I had 1 150W stealth heater that shattered on me one day while it was inside my discus tank. Scared the jeebees out of me. I had 1 100W visitherm heater that fluctuates by as much as 15 degree on any given day even when the ambient temp was fairly constant. It ultimately cooked one of my sick discus.

James, I sent a pm. Call me tomorrow.

the 55 diameter is little is little over 23" and the height is 35" the moderators from another site that I frequented for my discus suggested that I use bleach. That was what I used and it worked. It's a good idea to clean it over the course of several days.

Even if it has two power switch, i'm not sure how a timer or controller is going to be able to control the lights independently.

It worked for me but it was only up and running for a short time. It blew sand all over my 30 gal tank.

I had the pepsi and dr pepper smell in mine and they lasted for at least couple of weeks. I found it easier to clean the inside of the drums after I partially cut the top.