jnguyen4007

That's usually how it works in the computer. I'm not sure if I agree with this one. Unless you have salt water splashing and getting on the fan, then as the water evaporates, it leaves salt behind. I can see why salt accumulation would be bad. Other wise, it's just the water that gets evaporated and not the salt, so I don't understand about the fan that's pulling the evaporation would have a shorter lifespan that the fan to brings cool outside air in.

Dave, Where in Mexico are you? Are you in Cancun or Cozamel?

Welcome. One thing you will soon find out, your tank won't remain empty for very long.

I finally got it. LOL You guys are too much.

Is it any wonder why us Asians can never understand a darn thing that the Brits said. LOL

Huh? Is this a riddle?

HAHAHAHHAHA Now that's funny! Since I was too late to react to that rainbow monti that you put up on the swap, instead of making me laugh, make yourself a profit and sell me a piece

I used to live in Italy. Thought those cars were ugly then and still do. They do have great mileage though.

Profit is the difference between what one person charge minus their expenses. With that said, I suppose there are those who do manage to make a profit, but I seriously doubt that they can make enough to quit their day job. If anything at all, they make enough to allow them to sustain their hobby. This hobby can definitely get a whole lot more expensive if it weren't for club members selling and giving their stuff other members to help them get started. All you have to do is go down to a loca FS and look around and see how expensive some of the stuff are then compare that to the same thing that other members are selling. We also have members giving stuff away all the time. I know I wouldn't have half of the stuff in my tank today if I have to pay full retail price for everyone of them or not have members who were nice enough and kind enough to give them to me without so much as asking for a dime in return.

Just to add my 2 cents, the longer I've been in this hobby and following several different marine forum sites, the more people I see that seem to be in it to make money instead of enjoying the hobby. Maybe because I have not been in this hobby long enough to notice the difference or maybe my tank's lighting isn't the same as some folks, but I don't understand why something with the Tyree name on it would make it 10X more expensive than another coral without the Tyree name. Like YBeNormal, if I see something that stands out or look nice in their tank, then I will buy it. But I won't jump on it just because it has LE or Tyree name attached to it. Beside, there is no way that I would know if that is of Tyree heritage line or not. Unless DNA testing is done, the only thing I have to go on is somebody's face value.

John, I can honestly say that after trying that other stuff from Centreville Aquarium and the migraine that I got from it because it was so crappy, I'm sticking with the stuff you got. It works for me.

Justin, I volunteer to help you test it once you get it working.

One sure indicator of when your pH probe goes bad is when you see a wild pH swing from one extreme to the other. I thought my tank was possessed the first time that happened.

and I paid $14 at Centreville Aquarium out of desperation. Sheesh, I'm such a ding ding. Thanks, Bob. That's it, AquaScape. You're right Bob, the box looks very plain vanilla like. I didn't know it was a Geisseman product until now. Johnny recommended it so that's what I've been using. It doesn't cost $4 like Aquamend does at HD, but from the headache I got last night from trying to work with that crapola that I got from Centreville Aquarium, AquaScape was and is by far the better choice. Next time I stopped by Centreville Aquarium, I'll take a look at that epoxy again to see if it was Aquamend or something else altogether that they carried. I don't want to knock on Aquamend if what I used was an expensive and crappy knock off.

Here's a link to an ATO that YBeNormal helped me build. It is still working beautifully without any hitch of whatsoever. http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=17244

Matt, Awesome looking tank. I can't wait to take a closer look at that this weekend.

what kind of blenny is that and where did you get him? I want one!!!!

For what I paid for it, it should have worked better than that. The stuff that BRK has, it works much better without the addition of glue on it. I need to go back to BRK this week.

I forgot which brand it was that BRK carry. It might be the only one that they carry. It comes in two parts, purple and olive green. So far, that seems to work much better than that single epoxy stick that I got from Centreville aquarium. That one is white in the middle and green on the outside. When combined, it turns white. I was so furious with it last night that I used what I could and threw the rest out. It was $14 in the trash.

do you know which section in HD that I can find this? I get so lost half the time that I'm there. I'm wondering if that's the same stuff that I bought from Centreville aquarium. That stuff that I bought from Centreville aquarium was down right horrible. It barely sticks to anything. The moment it gets wet, it stopped working altogether.

I'm out of the two part epoxy stuff from BRK that is used to hold frags to the rocks in the tank, and the epoxy stuff that I bought from Centreville aquarium doesn't work worth a darn. Is there something from Home depot or somewhere else that I can use that is also non toxic and works as well as the stuff that BRK sells?

I like this one. Also love the rabitfish.

Sorry dude. With this last picture showing the view of the tank from behind, I see that you still kept the old design with an opening all the way across your tank. Those two round holes in the back of the tank where the overflow box is, what are they for? I used to use sodium thiosulfate to remove chlorine from the discus water storage tank because at the time I was told that they only use chlorine. Once I found out that they use chloramine and chlorine in high doses, as in 3.5 ppm with 4.00 ppm being toxic to human as well, I went back to using Amquel plus. How much do you want for those three discus?

I still prefer the vertical bars slit over your old design and new design with the two round holes for water to flow into your overflow box.

I think someone had a question about that on a different thread. One of the suggestions was that you could put a Y valve so you'd have 2 intakes to reduce the amount of suction it would otherwise cause with one large one.