Big Country

Usually, but it's more convenient because it's a larger tube/bottle. If you just need a little swing by the local dollar store and pick up a pack of super glue.

I just float the bag for 15-30 minutes then dip them in Revive. Like Jan I just acclimate fish and drip acclimate inverts

I'm pretty sure my ACIII can do that also.

I always figured a good starting point for heater sizing is 3 to 5 watts per gallon. I have a 250w eheim jagr and a 500w finnex titanium in my 250g volume setup and they come on regularly in the colder months to keep my tank warm at night since it's in the basement. I rely on some heat being generated by my return pump, various powerheads and a Mag12 to keep things warm also.

I thought you needed them now was why I recommended calling BRK. I usually get mine from AWI, occasionally order a set from Bulk Reef Supply if I need something added on to get free shipping. In a pinch House of Tropicals has the filters, more expensive than ordering but sometimes the sediment filter just gets too dirty and I want to replace it.

Give John at Blue Ribbon Koi a call, he usually has the filters and the DI resin in stock.

Since the dolly and brute both seem fine I suspect that a strange gust of wind got thru a basement window I had open yesterday and hit that brute just right to tip the balance since it was very top heavy. That actually sounds like a great idea but don't think the wife will go for silver duct tape but she wouldn't mind black gorilla tape.

I'd probably get more use out of a hoover steam vac, it seemed to do a good job of either sucking up the water from the carpet or turning it into steam. It took a little while but I got it dry enough that it wasn't pulling anything else out of the carpet and felt dry to walk on. I figured that the dollies that brute sells for the can were made heavy duty enough, had never had a problem before but never had more than 28g of water in there before either. Not sure if I want to fill it up that full again. I took the wheels off and sat the can directly on the floor for now.

Have a 44g brute trash can on a brute dolly made for the trash can like you see janitors wheeling around, mixed up 36 gallons of saltwater in it yesterday. Went out shopping today and when I came back the brute was on the floor with all that water spilled all over my basement, went under the wall and into the carpeted area also. Dried all the tile floor with towels and turned on some fans, borrowed a steam vac to suck the water out of the carpet. My wife is seriously pissed. Only thing that I can think happened is that one of the wheels buckled although they look fine, have been mixing 24g at a time in this can for quite some time with no problems but decided I wanted to do larger water changes. Guess I will take the wheels off and put the brute on the floor, need to mix up some more water.

Reefgeek is where I always ordered my bulbs from. They typically last about 12 months before they need replacement. There is a large T5 thread on Reefcentral, have a look and I'm sure you will find Grim Reefer has recommended a six bulb set for just what you want or post up your question on there and someone will make a recommendation

That's too funny, don't you think a reactor that big might just be a little overkill for a 180g tank? There is no issue with lack of space in my basement back room, as long as I keep it neat for the wife I can take up as much space as I want. The second chamber from avast is only $140 for the largest model which definately won't break the bank. I did notice that my ozone hadn't come on recently, I checked yesterday and it said my ORP was 425 which I knew was wrong, soaked the ORP probe in some vinegar for awhile to clean it, put it back in the tank and the reading went to 270, another maintainence issue that's my fault. I just added filter socks to the drains this weekend, per copps suggestion, that's definately taking some junk out of the water since they were getting full last night after only 2 days, will change them tonight.

Wow, If I tried that my purple slimer would have a fit and make a real mess

Effluent is dripping in right next to one of my skimmer pumps. I don't think I'm driving the CaRx very hard at all, takes a long time for the media to start dropping and a 5# CO2 tank is lasting me about 6 months, not near the SPS that you had in your old tank but hopefully someday. Checked my alk earlier and it was 7.5 dkh, slowed down the drip rate slightly, don't want to slow it down much more so if that doesn't get the level above 8 again I will up the BPM and the output. Currently running about 80 BPM

I never thought about dripping the CaRx into the fuge but CO2 is dosed in FW planted tanks so it should make the chaeto grow like mad. My reactor is tall enough that I can definately put the outflow into the fuge, will have to try that.

Considering the house was built in 1968 I doubt that the house is very air tight, before I hooked up the Ca Rx my PH stayed around 8.1-8.3 with kalk ato additions. How do you drip the outflow from the Ca Rx into the protein skimmer? This reef equipment is just entirely too confusing, I googled Co2 scrubber and came up with nothing that looked like it was for an aquarium

Every time I check the alk it's between 7.7 and 8.3 dkh on my salifert test kit, no idea what it drops per day. Guess to figure that out I'd have to do a test, switch off the calcium reactor and swith the ATO from kalk to just straight water to see what the alk drop is for a day when I test the next day. I never really worried about it, I thought the plan was to adjust the reactor to maintain a constant alkalinity and thereby take care of the usage of the tank.

Am thinking about adding a second chamber to my calcium reactor. Was looking at the Avast Marine website and saw the Seabones Effluent Reactor Kit, http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/youbuilt/SeaBones-Effluent-Chamber-Kit , Justin recommended I go with the Seabones III to match up with my Geo618 calcium reactor, seems kinda large since my reactor doesn't even hold that much media. I've been having problems keeping my PH up since I added my reactor, PH is typically 7.6-7.9 even with all my top off going thru a kalk reactor. I'm not having any issues with keeping my calcium or alkalinity at a good level with just the reactors. Anyone have experience with a second chamber on a calcium reactor? Does it do what the Avast website says it does? Since my primary want is to degas the CO2 and keep it from driving down my PH do I really need the largest model?

I use the float valve from air, water & ice hooked to the end of the line. You have to have a ASOV, Auto Shut off Valve on the RO/DI unit to make it shut off the water to the unit.

If you have Sunlight Supply ballasts I can bring one of my Lumenmax Elite reflectors down so you can get some PAR readings on it. All of my pendants have the standard Sunlight Supply plug on them since I'm using the Blue Wave ballasts.

You can rinse out the filter socks or run them through the washing machine. I used to try and change them out twice a week but was lucky to do it once.

The CMAS members who have went there have given it very good reviews. They just aren't stocked up yet with alot of drygoods, haven't had a whole lot of corals and are now getting rid of their freshwater to go strictly saltwater.

That's John, I just placed an order to ship on Monday for 50 florida cerith, I didn't really like the small ones when I ordered although my wrasses loved them...lol, also ordered 50 nassarius and 30 sm/md nerite. Got lots of extras last time I ordered. The guy at reeftopia counts everything almost exactly.

Hellolights has all their XM bulbs on sale, most are $30 off so for the 250's and 400's in 10K they are $45 ea

Looking good Tony, can't wait to see it grown out. Am glad that I got to see your old tank before you tore it down. Did you get your CUC from John at reefcleaners? Can he still not count if you did?

I found a great sale on XM 10,000K bulbs, do the bulbs go bad if you just pack them away until they are needed?