finaddict January 6, 2018 Share January 6, 2018 I have an issue in my tank and I need to reverse it soon.... I read my pH today at 7.4 and I have a very unhappy anemone. I have Brightwell aquatics alkalin8.3 (KH buffer)and I have Seachem reef complete (looks like mostly calcium). Should I be adding the Alkalin 8.3 now and then follow that up with the reef complete an hour or so later? I recently began mixing my own water and I am using a very old bucket of Instant Ocean. I just bought a new bucket of IO Reef Crystals and was wondering if I should start using that to get a better mix for my reef? Please let me know if you know how I should raise my pH safely in my tank. It is only a 36 gallon tank. Thanks for any quick help....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Lazar January 6, 2018 Share January 6, 2018 Are you sure it's really that low? Are you using an (in-date) test kit or a (calibrated) pH meter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Lazar January 6, 2018 Share January 6, 2018 Also, is this a recent development? The amount of CO2 in the house can drive down pH in an aquarium. Especially if the house is closed up and people are inside during inclement weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finaddict January 7, 2018 Author Share January 7, 2018 My test kit is just a regular old API saltwater test kit but most bottles have expiration dates and the high range pH does not... I bet it is very old. I will get another kit tomorrow and try again. Should I add KH buffer or calcium at this point to try and bring up the pH? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madweazl January 7, 2018 Share January 7, 2018 (edited) The buffer is going to increase your alkalinity so unless that is low, I wouldnt bother nor would I ever use it to increase pH. I doubt pH is the issue with your anemone; what else have you tested? Edited January 7, 2018 by madweazl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k January 7, 2018 Share January 7, 2018 Don't add any supplements until you test for the things you want to add. I'd recommend that you first get a selection of good test kits. Salifert is simple, easy, and repeatable. You should always have the following kits: Calcium Alkalinity Magnesium Phosphate Nitrate PH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treesprite January 7, 2018 Share January 7, 2018 Also, is this a recent development? The amount of CO2 in the house can drive down pH in an aquarium. Especially if the house is closed up and people are inside during inclement weather. Thank you for this winter reminder. I am going to check mine as soon as I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finaddict January 7, 2018 Author Share January 7, 2018 So my 12 year old son (who is setting up his first FOWLR) is the one who tested my pH yesterday. It appears now that he might have only used 4 drops of reagent instead of 5. Retested the pH this morning and we measured between 8.0 and 8.2 in the morning so I think we are good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpu933k January 8, 2018 Share January 8, 2018 First rule of unexplained aberrant results is to test again, especially if you didn't do the first test yourself. Then check the test kit with a different one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madweazl January 8, 2018 Share January 8, 2018 And when the test is pH, the results don't much matter anyways... When an issues arises, 99.9% of the time it will be related to something other than pH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingOfAll_Tyrants January 9, 2018 Share January 9, 2018 I've had a similar situation where my pH and (therefore) alk have been dropping. This isn't due to misreading the (Salifert and Hanna) kits, though. I'm just including it for reference, maybe it'll be useful for someone one day. I did some googling, and there is an alleged link between elevations in nitrate and reductions in alk/pH. Which I think is the main cause of my pH/Alk problem. As a result, though I played with dosing two or three times, I have not done it permanently, lest something go out of control (beyond my nitrates! :D ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 9, 2018 Share January 9, 2018 I've had a similar situation where my pH and (therefore) alk have been dropping. This isn't due to misreading the (Salifert and Hanna) kits, though. I'm just including it for reference, maybe it'll be useful for someone one day. I did some googling, and there is an alleged link between elevations in nitrate and reductions in alk/pH. Which I think is the main cause of my pH/Alk problem. As a result, though I played with dosing two or three times, I have not done it permanently, lest something go out of control (beyond my nitrates! :D ) The link is not alleged, but a matter of the chemistry of the nitrogen cycle. Normally, the nitrogen cycle has no net effect on alkalinity. However, the process of converting ammonia to nitrate consumes one unit of alkalinity. And, later, that unit is returned when nitrate is converted to nitrogen gas. (Net zero.) Conversely, normally balanced consumption of alkalinity relative to calcium will become unbalanced in tanks with increasing or decreasing nitrate for this reason. If your tank is building up nitrates and you're managing the increase through water changes, then you'll see a net loss of alkalinity relative to calcium and will have to supplement it with baking soda or calcium carbonate in order to maintain balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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