Domino effect. Please help.

[Joshifer]

Royal gramma. Got sick. Over fed. Caused a bloom bla bla bla.

 

Now my clownfish is sick. I guess it's ich. Theirs white spots and he looks uncomfortable. The other clownfish sticks close and looks like he's trying to comfort him. But I'm worried the other getting sick too. Their both eating normally. But the sick one doesn't like the lights on. It stays under a ledge. Til lights out then goes back to swimming around. So I killed the lights completely. I'm making sure it eats but not over doing it not to cause another bloom.

 

I don't have a hospital tank. Or the means to get one. Funds are low due to paying rent this week and bills.

 

I purchased kordon ich attack. It's copper free. Reef safe. Back says invert and coral safe. I'm thinking of dosing half of the 10ML it says to dose. (5ml per 10G) the only ingredient it lists is 5% multiple natural herbs containing naphthoquione. And 95% inert ingredients.

 

I don't wanna make any sudden movements as I adore these clowns I'm very attached to them I really love them the way I love my dog. I read about fresh water dips but I'm afraid of killing or stressing it.

 

Please help. :(

Edited October 12, 2016 by Joshifer

[Almon]

I suggest water changes. The simple approach often has good results.

[Joshifer]

I forgot to list perams. Ammo trite 0 trate under 5. I raised the temp from 78 to 80 as the house has been really cold lately. SG 1.026. I just changed all the flosses. And topped off evap.

Edited October 12, 2016 by Joshifer

[Joshifer]

Maybe I can borrow someone's UV sterilizer...

[SandJ]

I am not an expert on fish disease, so someone can correct me if anything seems wrong (it is late and I am typing on the iPad).

 

First, can you post pictures of the clown (under all whites, not under blue lights)? Velvet and brook can easily be mistaken for ick.

 

Increasing temp does not affect the life cycle of marine ick (if that is why you raised temp). I think it may be better to keep the temp lower (where you had it at 78) because the higher the water temp the less oxygen in the water.

 

I do not believe that there is any reef safe meds (or foods that you can feed them) that cure ick. If it is ick, you may see an improvement in the spots from day to day, but that is usually just the life cycle of ick, not the meds working.

 

Tank transfer method is an inexpensive way to cure ick (does not work on velvet or brook). It can be done in 5 gallon buckets if necessary. All fish would have to be removed and go through ttm, and the tank left fallow for 76 days to prevent reinfection. no matter what method you use to treat ick/brook/velvet you would need to let the tank sit fallow to prevent reinfection.

 

I am wondering if a 5 gallon bucket would work for a quarantine tank?

 

Yes, a fresh water dip can provide some relief. And from my research, it will not kill a fish that is not too far gone to be saved anyways. Need to match temp, and pH.

 

If it is ick, some people choose to take the do nothing approach. Keep the water clean and fish as less stressed as possible and let the tank be. But the ick can still be in the tank even if fish do not show outward symptoms. It can live in the gills and you would never see it.

Edited October 12, 2016 by SandJ

[Joshifer]

I'm not sure how I would match pH. Temp I can do. It's a tank bred osc clown so their pretty tough.

 

I am keeping stress factors down. The CBS is stressing it if I have to tear the whole tank apart tomorrow I'm getting him out. He stressed the Royal gramma to death. I'll drop him off to Petco or to the children's lab.maybe better off Petco I don't wanna infect the kiddy tank where Dave works

Edited October 12, 2016 by Joshifer

[Joshifer]

Coral banded was chasing the sick clown around the tank. Swimming and lunging at him he even swam to the top of the tank to try and grab the clown. I caught him and put him in a 5G bucket with tank water a heater and prime. He's getting dropped off to Petco tomorrow. Evil viscious little thing clipped the clowns tail.

 

Now the poor clowns can relax. I bet the shrimp stressed the Royal gramma to death too.

 

Their beautiful but Never again.

Edited October 12, 2016 by Joshifer

[treesprite]

In my opinion, your fish are getting sick because they are stressed from living in an environment that has been in a continuous state of change from day one. They need to have down time during which there is nothing new in the tank and no hands in the tank. Hold off on adding any new corals until the fish are better. If it really is ich, and since you took out that bad shrimp, I would suggest to get a cleaner shrimp to reduce stress from the itching the parasites cause, and to ease itching so that the fish don't end up dying from bacterial infections due to scratching against rocks. 

Edited October 12, 2016 by treesprite

[Marc Weaver]

The best way (other than quarantine and hypo-salinity, which is a long process) is lack of stress.  You did the right thing by removing the CBS.  Just relax and let the clownfish alone.  Don't add any new fish.  Don't mess around with the tank.

Return the ich attack.  According to most reviews I read on the stuff many years ago, it does not work. 

[Joshifer]

My hands are hardly ever in there I hate putting my hands in there. But your both right. Too much changing. I'm gonna back off. And let them relax.

 

Now just a few minutes ago my heater which is the cobalt neotherm began to make a crackle sound. The lights began flashing Then went up to 94° by itself so I unplugged it and pulled it out quickly and it began to emit smoke. Like Jesus it's one thing after another. The only other heater I have is an Aqueon mini 10W betta heater I was using to heat up new salt water. I stuck that in the return pump chamber.

 

Now the CBS has no heater in the bucket. :/ hope he makes it thru the night. Even tho he's evil I don't want him to die.

 

Now I need to makeshift a way to keep the CBS water from freezing.

Edited October 12, 2016 by Joshifer

[Mattb1612]

Trust me I have been here and everyone is going to jump on me for this but whatever. Ich is not a death sentence we all agree on that. My treatment method since I don't have qt nor am I patient enough to stand one up is take your lumps and do what you can. What I mean by this is your gonna have some fish die its part of the hobby (your lumps) its vicious cycle of life.  Now doing what you can keep stable parameters, taking out aggressive tank mates can help. I have also run so Called "snake oil remedies" you can try if you want I live in Herndon and I have used it on my reef tank. Another option is to take him out place him in a 5-gallon bucket with SG 1.10 and temp of 80 degrees. High heat help disease cycle faster and low gravity of salt helps them breathe. Also please don't buy fish from Petco or any place like that. I make sure when i buy fish they LFS at least did a QT but honestly all tanks have ich and if they stress there going to get it. Good luck man 

[ReefAddict]

Search on YouTube for BRS Week51 What you need to know to cure fish disease and parasites.    I found it educational.

[Rob A]

I have an assortment of heaters (some work better than others, might have to do some testing), 10 and 20 gal tanks, powerheads etc if you feel like coming to Stafford, Exit 143 off of 95. You are welcome to borrow whatever.

 

Managing pH in a bare bucket or tank for more than a few days becomes a tricky in the absence of rock or sand, which would normally help keep the pH up. I think most people just use baking soda for this type of setup but you have to watch it because the pH drops fast.  

Edited October 12, 2016 by Rob A

[Joshifer]

I have an assortment of heaters (some work better than others, might have to do some testing), 10 and 20 gal tanks, powerheads etc if you feel like coming to Stafford, Exit 143 off of 95. You are welcome to borrow whatever.

 

Managing pH in a bare bucket or tank for more than a few days becomes a tricky in the absence of rock or sand, which would normally help keep the pH up. I think most people just use baking soda for this type of setup but you have to watch it because the pH drops fast.

Thanks appreciate it. I think this little 10 watt will hold off til the cobalt comes. Lady said she's personally shipping it today. I think she was afraid I'd sue as it blew up.

[08can-am]

In my opinion, your fish are getting sick because they are stressed from living in an environment that has been in a continuous state of change from day one. They need to have down time during which there is nothing new in the tank and no hands in the tank. Hold off on adding any new corals until the fish are better. If it really is ich, and since you took out that bad shrimp, I would suggest to get a cleaner shrimp to reduce stress from the itching the parasites cause, and to ease itching so that the fish don't end up dying from bacterial infections due to scratching against rocks.

This. You need to slow down a little bit and ease up on rushing to continuously add stuff and constantly moving things. This is a hobby of patience

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[zygote2k]

I recommend you stop adding/moving/over feeding/lights on/lights off/ heat up/down and step back from the tank, drink a beer, relax, let nature take its' course and do regular maintenance for the next month or two.

The tank never properly cycled and you've put stuff from many sources without a QT procedure into your tank.

[madub03]

Are they eating well/regularly? How is their appetite? -- Just wondering because a lot of times if they are stressed (or have ich and become stressed), they stop eating and then that could obviously cause a whole new set of issues... Just curious.