If you have .5 ppm of ammonia, that is a dangerous level for the fish. While the ammonia level is serving the purpose of cycling the tank, it is also damaging the fish.
As long as you have ammonia showing, you have not cycled yet. First you add an ammonia source to the tank. I like to use pure ammonia when cycling because you can measure exactly how fast the bacteria can process ammonia (Can't do that now with a fish in the tank). The fish is adding the ammonia in your tank.
Then the bacteria population that breaks ammonia into nitrites increases, so you will see ammonia decrease and nitrites increase.
Next, the nitrites will be broken down into nitrates by a different bacteria. Nitrites decrease and nitrates increase.
This is when your tank is considered cycled.
What test kit are you using to test for ammonia? The API test kits are notorious for giving false positives. If you are using an API, you may want to run the ammonia test on fresh salt water as a control, just to make sure it is giving you an accurate result.
And someone correct me if I am wrong on this please...you will want to add fish slowly after the tank has cycled. The tank has grown enough bacteria to process the ammonia from the fish you have in it. When you add more fish, the ammonia production in the tank will increase and it will take the bacteria a little while to catch up.