WilRams February 7, 2016 Share February 7, 2016 Whats everyones thoughts on having a check valve on returns? I have never used one but since I'm planning the plumbing for a new frag tank I tossed the idea around. Whats everyones opinions? Not worth the cost and maintenance cost? Think of it as extra insurance? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davjbeas February 7, 2016 Share February 7, 2016 I have never used one. If the pump stops working you could have water syphon from the display down to the sump. You could drill a hole in your return nozzle just above the water level in the display so there won't be much water back flowing to the sump in the event that the pump stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k February 8, 2016 Share February 8, 2016 I use a check valve on every tank I build. There's currently about 100 of them in operation at various tanks. Allows you to direct your loc-line at whatever depth you want- although an air break is needed to prevent water hammer from flapper type check valves. Ball-checks and plunger types don't have this issue. Also they allow for easy change of the pump without disturbing the return plumbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami February 8, 2016 Share February 8, 2016 I've never used one, but took pains to design my systems so that, in the event of a power or pump or drain failure, nothing would overflow. Old-school thinking was that check valves were just another(unreliable) part that could fail but with disastrous consequences. I use a check valve on every tank I build. There's currently about 100 of them in operation at various tanks. Allows you to direct your loc-line at whatever depth you want- although an air break is needed to prevent water hammer from flapper type check valves. Ball-checks and plunger types don't have this issue. Also they allow for easy change of the pump without disturbing the return plumbing. That said, Rob ^^ has built many more tanks (professionally) than most of us will in a lifetime. While he regularly uses check valves, I've regularly seen him recommend a specific type/brand and a regular maintenance schedule (both of which goes to the reliability factor). Rob, can you say more about that for Wil and others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom39 February 9, 2016 Share February 9, 2016 (edited) I use a check valve, I like them because I like the idea that the return line doesn't have to fill up each time the pump is shut down. The added benefit of limited drain down is nice too but I also account for overflow in the event that it doesn't seal or fails. Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk Edited February 9, 2016 by tom39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k February 9, 2016 Share February 9, 2016 Check valves are almost mandatory when using manifolds because it keeps water inside the components. For instance, your pump goes down but UV sterilizer is still on- water inside keeps the plastic from excessively heating- same with internal flow through heaters. They also allow you to remove and service the pump without draining the return lines. When power is off, the only water coming back into the sump is from the drains or overflow box. Check valves that use a flapper should be serviced every year or so to prevent organisms from growing on the seal, plunger types should have the spring inspected, and ball types rarely see issues. We typically use them as an added safety feature since many of our installs are in commercial spaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sad Panda February 9, 2016 Share February 9, 2016 Can I pick these sort of things up at Lowes, and do they make them for 1" pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmerek2 February 9, 2016 Share February 9, 2016 (edited) Snails/debris/buildup caught in it prevented mine from working after a few years. Also its more friction loss and I was shocked at how much more flow was achieved after taking them off. Just put a good siphon break hole in and clean siphon break with a tooth pick a few times a year. I have not had any problems with siphon break but I run direct lines with no manifold. Build your sump with enough room to hold the drain lines, return lines, and then some because unfortunately things fail. I have had ATOs fail and pump extra water, the check valves failed eventually, etc etc Edited February 9, 2016 by gmerek2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2nhle February 12, 2016 Share February 12, 2016 Can I pick these sort of things up at Lowes, and do they make them for 1" pipe? Yes, you can pick it up at Lowes or Home Depot. I used one before but took it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilRams February 12, 2016 Author Share February 12, 2016 I ended up not putting one in at the moment. Ill take the normal steps I have before but just incase I feel the need to I left a perfect spot for one. If I do add one it will most likely order this one: http://www.amazon.com/Red-Flag-Products-Socket-Connector/dp/B005JTM2K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1455314634&sr=8-2&keywords=ball+check+valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WheresTheReef February 13, 2016 Share February 13, 2016 (edited) Make sure and cut the power to your pump when you're doing a leak test to make sure your sump can handle the water Edited February 13, 2016 by WheresTheReef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k February 13, 2016 Share February 13, 2016 FWIW, everything fails if not serviced- even siphon breaks get clogged.... If worried about head loss, just go one size up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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