martin January 15, 2006 Share January 15, 2006 Where can I find a check valve to keep the water from back-flowing? I am also having trouble conecting the inline with the tube that goes to the bottom. Of course Low's was no help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ne0eN January 16, 2006 Share January 16, 2006 I found a place or two on line that sells John Guest check valves. They're around $10 but the shipping kills you. (group order???) For the intake tube, I found a rigid tube at HomeDepot plumbing aisle, cut it to length, and attached it using a short piece of RO/DI tubing (same as Icemaker line tubing sold at Home Depot) -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryL January 16, 2006 Share January 16, 2006 mcmaster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller January 16, 2006 Share January 16, 2006 I'm pretty sure the 1/4" inline check valves take alot of pressure to pop open. Look at GaryL's link, the shipping is very reasonable and even faster. I used a 1/2" swing style backflow valve from them. Drs. Foster & Smith has a of them pictured in their catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardofNOVA January 16, 2006 Share January 16, 2006 I'll take 2 of them, if anyone is ordering? I believe this is the one (1/4" inside dia. tubing): For...End-to-..Polypropylene.............Nylon Tube ID End Lg. Each Each 1/8" 1 3/8" 7757K11 $3.23............6079T51 $3.56 3/16" 1 11/16" 7757K12 3.23.......6079T52 3.56 1/4" 2" 7757K13 3.23..................6079T53 3.56 $3.23 each, These work for freshwater only, metal valve. Still looking for a non-metal one for 1/4" tubing! Check with me before you order? Howard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gastone January 17, 2006 Share January 17, 2006 I'm looking too. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category....cookie%5Ftest=1 http://www.laboratorynetwork.com/Content/P...a&VNETCOOKIE=NO But I'm moronic. Would any of these be usable in DIY Kalk Reactor? G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sph2sail January 17, 2006 Share January 17, 2006 I use an electronic shut off valve from LifeReef.com. Expensive (about $60), but flawless. If power is on to run the pump for flow through the kalk reactor, the shut off is opened. When power goes out, it shuts off the flow. No siphoning and back flow. Perfect. Make sure this baby is on the fresh water side of the reactor. Check valves rarely work due to the cracking pressure issue. Another strategy is a peristaltic dosing pump. No siphoning ever. s I'm looking too. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category....cookie%5Ftest=1 http://www.laboratorynetwork.com/Content/P...a&VNETCOOKIE=NO But I'm moronic. Would any of these be usable in DIY Kalk Reactor? G. 50248[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeltwayBandit January 19, 2006 Share January 19, 2006 I have the same check valve as Chip. I also have my plumbing set up in such a way that I would never backflow more than a few cups of water from my reactor back into my reservoir. I have an AGA 120 with corner overflows. I have the fill line from my reactor zip tied to the return line and there is a 1" air gap between the end of the fill line and the water level in the overflow. This way, even if I do get backflow it is only the water that is in the tubing (1/4" x 40 feet). Also this arrangement ensures that I won't siphon my reservoir into the tank (which I did when I originally plumbed the fill line directly to the sump. I discovered this flaw during my check-out run and did not over-fill the tank.) Then again, is it really such an issue if you backflush a small ammount of Kalkwasser into your storage reservoir? (assuming setup where you can't siphon the tank back through the reactor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 I don't think there's any issue with kalk backflowing into the reservoir. It's all going into the kalk reactor sooner or later. The only thing I really watch out for is air in the reator mixing chamber. Here's why I continue to say no air should be in this reactor chamber whatsoever For about 13 years, I used the big vat method. I filled up my reservoir (vat) with DI water and several really heaping teaspoons of calcium hydroxide - lime-kalk whatever. I'd mix this up with a powerhead for several minutes and that's what my auto top off would add. Lots of times it would form a crust on the surface (calcium carbonate) which they say protects it from further air and or continued degration. Problem was, the crust would break up exposing the solution to air and ultimately reducing it's effectiveness. Those same crust particles would then fall to the bottom of the vat and either wind up as even smaller particles in the tank and or simply tearing up the impeller in the powerhead that first mixed and then added to the tank via top off. Once I switched over to an air tight kalk reactor, everything changed, and man did it change. Corals and clams that were really active growers became really rapid growers with a soli growing several inches in 60 days and the colors went balistic. I attribute that to always adding a very potent balanced mix of kalk. This is because it wasn't being turned into calcium carbonate which in a marine high PH environment will not dissolve and may actually work against our goal by allowing more hydroxide, mg, strontium to be pulled out of solution in the "crusting" process. They all bond together in uneqaul proportions leaving a less than disirable mix. So you see, everything we read is true but I believe it may actually be a less potent mix than we believe or more importantly need. I know about Randys articles and am not disputing them but, from my results I have proven to no one more important than me, that air mixed with kalk will no doubt provide a less than satisfactory mixture of balanced kalk. This is my opinion based upon my experiences even after reading RH articles over and over looking for some insight as to what I'm experiencing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Folta January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 So has a check valve that is totally plastic been found yet? If not, how would this work out: ro/di tank that feeds a kangaroo type pump, that feeds the kalkreactor that pushes water into the sump. Would that still need a check valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Folta January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 So has a check valve that is totally plastic been found yet? If not, how would this work out: ro/di tank that feeds a kangaroo type pump, that feeds the kalkreactor that pushes water into the sump. Would that still need a check valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ne0eN January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 So has a check valve that is totally plastic been found yet? If not, how would this work out: ro/di tank that feeds a kangaroo type pump, that feeds the kalkreactor that pushes water into the sump. Would that still need a check valve? 50665[/snapback] Folta, that's exactly the set-up I went with. RO/DI bucket --> Kangaroo 324 --> Kalk Reactor --> Sump. No check vales needed. Since I haven't figured out how to put the dosing pump on a timer (internal battery) I'm doing a contiunous 24/7 drip. So far it's working well. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 The one I got from McMaster-Carr is all plastic. It's the two schools of thought. If you add by always dripping via a dosing pump, you likely will not need one. This is because it is always "moving forward" for lack of a better phrase. If you add with a top off switch you will likely need one because it kicks on, fills, kits off and gravity drops it back to "level". Both work great and a dosing may work best, unless you have a sensitive float switch or small float compartment which adds very small amounts many times a day. Mine adds about 1 cup per fill to a 300 gallon system which evaporates 3-3.5gph this time of year. They both work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbartco January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 Chip, I know you posted before, but if you still have the link, could you post again. Howard, I am in to order a bunch if you are. I have a JG fitting check valve that failed last night. I put on my backup but a ready to go ahead with a new plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardofNOVA January 20, 2006 Share January 20, 2006 Chip, What backflow value are you recommend then, all plastic? I'm in for at least 2? Gary's link just brings you to the main page, what part number are we shooting for? Howard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardofNOVA January 27, 2006 Share January 27, 2006 Where do we stand with this? Order - No Order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Folta January 27, 2006 Share January 27, 2006 Not sure about if an order is going on. What is the link/price for one? How is their shipping price on small things? I know the group order for the kalk party was less than $5 shipping for everything, so it might not be worth it compared to gas prices for a group order (unless we pass them out at a meeting?) Anyone have a link to the kangaroo pumps, btw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller January 27, 2006 Share January 27, 2006 From McMaster-Carr I used part #45275K42 which is a 1/2" female NPT valve. If you go to their site and use this number it will show you a picture. It worked for me and my application but does not mean it will work for you or yours. Admittedly I'm too cheap and don't have time (from personal conversations) to buy and maintain a dosing pump. This valve has worked very well for me for the last 16 months with no maintenance. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardofNOVA January 27, 2006 Share January 27, 2006 Heading to the OBX to do some fishing, if anyone local is ordering, I'll take 2 of them? P/N# #45275K42 Howard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikS January 30, 2006 Share January 30, 2006 Another alternative is part# 2774K11. Diaphram style, pops under 1psi & holds water. If you're using the 1/4" (OD) JG fittings that were @ the Kalk reactor party then you want 1/8" barb connections. Also, don't have the part number but you can get the JG style fittings w/ a built in check valve - no idea the pop psi rating though. Just an FYI - spend a few days browsing McMaster........tons of choices Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbartco January 30, 2006 Share January 30, 2006 I had the inline JG ones. Mine failed after a while and backflowed. I now have 2 inline just in case. I used a 606 maxijet and it was able to push through no problem, but have no idea why it failed after removing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Folta January 30, 2006 Share January 30, 2006 Where did you get the inline john guest ones? Are they 1/4" ? I had the inline JG ones. Mine failed after a while and backflowed. I now have 2 inline just in case. I used a 606 maxijet and it was able to push through no problem, but have no idea why it failed after removing. 51589[/snapback] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbartco January 31, 2006 Share January 31, 2006 http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/m...&Category_Code= I think, checking on this! .....................................Heck, I can't remember or find it now. I know that the 90 degree ones I got from Marine Depot were too hard to crack. or this (I think lieshman has) http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/m...&Category_Code= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardofNOVA January 31, 2006 Share January 31, 2006 Link for the Spectrapure Valve: http://www.spectrapure.com/St_items_p1.htm#check I'm interested in a couple of what-ever you guys decide on is best for the tubing? I'll be a follower on this order! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Folta January 31, 2006 Share January 31, 2006 What size are the input and output on that check valve? 1/4" ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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