wildcrazyjoker81 November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 Okay so it is time to get my phosphates under control and I am slightly overwhelmed with all the options and would like some opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangspeed November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 How big of a problem are you talking about? My Zeovit tank reads 0 on my Hanna, but I also skim heavy and dose kalk, and run a small fuge. Not a typical Zeo setup, but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overklok November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 GFO is the go to substance for P04 removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridetheducati November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 Okay so it is time to get my phosphates under control and I am slightly overwhelmed with all the options and would like some opinions. Opinions related to what, cost, effectiveness, experience level, strengths/weaknesses. Can you be more specific? What are your current levels? According to your signature, you maintain LPS and softies; this type of setup loves elevated nutrients. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 November 10, 2013 Author Share November 10, 2013 How big of a problem are you talking about? My Zeovit tank reads 0 on my Hanna, but I also skim heavy and dose kalk, and run a small fuge. Not a typical Zeo setup, but it works. My PO4 is at 30. But this will change with my water change today. Opinions related to what, cost, effectiveness, experience level, strengths/weaknesses. Can you be more specific? What are your current levels? According to your signature, you maintain LPS and softies; this type of setup loves elevated nutrients. Mainly effectiveness and long term use. PO4 is around 30. I am just trying to combat algae/cyano issues. My 55 has plenty of flow, brand new ATI bulbs, skimmer is cleaned and working great, but algae is growing pretty quick. PH is steady 8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrates 20ppm so nothing is really elevated. Overfeeding is without a doubt the cause. On a side note I am also trying to get suggestions for my 150G as I will have SPS in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FishyPapa November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 GFO will knock the phosphate issue out. Just get a reactor and run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaddc November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 No matter which way you go it will take forever for your levels to drop and your media will get exhausted quickly. The best way to fix it is to do a series of frequent water changes (>50%) until the levels drop to zero. Be sure to blast out all detritus when you do a WC (I use a powerhead) to remove all nutrients. When the levels are low -- then use whatever means of control you like. GFO will work if you are patient. But you must change it out frequently. If it becomes exhausted then it will leach phosphate back into the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2nhle November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 another cheap way is to dose vinegar or voka. However, you have get your tank age first. Let it completely cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef November 10, 2013 Share November 10, 2013 There's all kinds of speculation on what works better..but doing something and maintaining it works better than not...with that said..I will be running biopellets on my 150..im going to start it now so that it can keep up when i get everything moved over in the next few weeks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 November 10, 2013 Author Share November 10, 2013 No matter which way you go it will take forever for your levels to drop and your media will get exhausted quickly. The best way to fix it is to do a series of frequent water changes (>50%) until the levels drop to zero. Be sure to blast out all detritus when you do a WC (I use a powerhead) to remove all nutrients. When the levels are low -- then use whatever means of control you like. GFO will work if you are patient. But you must change it out frequently. If it becomes exhausted then it will leach phosphate back into the water. Yeah I am mixing 30 gallons of fresh saltwater right now. I use a PH and turkey basterfor every water change. I have been using airline tubing and sucking out as much as possible too. another cheap way is to dose vinegar or voka. However, you have get your tank age first. Let it completely cycle. I will have to read more about this. Thanks. There's all kinds of speculation on what works better..but doing something and maintaining it works better than not...with that said..I will be running biopellets on my 150..im going to start it now so that it can keep up when i get everything moved over in the next few weeks Any reason why you are choosing biopellets? Previous use? Also won't biopellets mess with your cycling and transition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef November 11, 2013 Share November 11, 2013 I chose biopellets because someone warned me about tumbling GFO and that causing problems...there seem to be possible problems with everything... But no it won't cause any problems, other than causing some cyano possibly before I get everything transferred over and I'm hoping to eliminate that possibility by dowsing the pellets with MB7 prior to starting them in the reactor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami November 11, 2013 Share November 11, 2013 PO4 is 30?? 30 what? What are you measuring with? Typical phosphate readings are in the fractional ppm range. Water changes are called for to start recovery. Do several three or four days apart to not shock things. Determine why you have this problem and make corrections. Sent from my Rezound on Tachyon using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 November 11, 2013 Author Share November 11, 2013 PO4 is 30?? 30 what? What are you measuring with? Typical phosphate readings are in the fractional ppm range. Water changes are called for to start recovery. Do several three or four days apart to not shock things. Determine why you have this problem and make corrections. Sent from my Rezound on Tachyon using Tapatalk 30 ppm with the hanna checker. Double checked it with the cheap API and got a similiar result. I did 50% yesterday and mixing water for another 50 for another water change soon. Yeah I am pretty sure it is the wife feeding the fish multiple times a day. She gets the enjoyment of feeding the little pigs while I get the enjoyment of doing the cleanup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridetheducati November 11, 2013 Share November 11, 2013 The HI 713 Hanna Phosphate checker range is 0.00 - 2.50 ppm. Not sure how you arrived at 30 ppm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 November 11, 2013 Author Share November 11, 2013 Sorry meant .30 then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef November 11, 2013 Share November 11, 2013 Sorry meant .30 then. And that's what I assumed you meant..guess I should have asked or clarification...that's why I didn't worry... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami November 12, 2013 Share November 12, 2013 Sorry meant .30 then. Whew. Much better. You have a lot of options. A couple of large water changes and/or GFO would will work fine. You could also use Lanthanum Chloride but the protocol is much more involved. Sent from my Rezound on Tachyon using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcrazyjoker81 November 12, 2013 Author Share November 12, 2013 Whew. Much better. You have a lot of options. A couple of large water changes and/or GFO would will work fine. You could also use Lanthanum Chloride but the protocol is much more involved. Sent from my Rezound on Tachyon using Tapatalk So far I did 50% water change and turned out the lights. I put and old hob marineland filter on with some filter floss to help clean it up and threw a bag of chemo pure in it too. Probably turn on the lights tomorrow and prep for another big water change. I will have to look that one up Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami November 12, 2013 Share November 12, 2013 So far I did 50% water change and turned out the lights. I put and old hob marineland filter on with some filter floss to help clean it up and threw a bag of chemo pure in it too. Probably turn on the lights tomorrow and prep for another big water change. I will have to look that one up Tom. Look up Sharkey18's thread here on here use of Lanthanum to help with a phosphate problem (suspected from a food that she was using). There's a lot of good stuff in it. I first read about its use a few years ago in an article by Daniel Knop in Coral Magazine (I think). The stuff is used in pools. There are consequences if used improperly or too quickly. Because it's such a non-traditional way of doing things, you need to exercise caution and be ready to suffer consequences even if you do everything "right." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangspeed November 12, 2013 Share November 12, 2013 All 3 options are fine for long term, but GFO will cut it down quickly. Don't go too fast though, otherwise your corals may not be too happy about it. Chemipure is weak as far as PO4 adsorbtion capability goes. Lanthanum is probably the fastest, but I would probably opt for something slower. Zeovit gets a bad rap around here on long term survival of the tank. If you feed heavily, and aren't TOO aggressive with Zeospur, I see no reason why it shouldn't work well long term. I guess I'll find out for myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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