YHSublime July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 So I have never plumbed a tank, but I have a feeling I'm getting ready to learn all about it. I have some ideas about how I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, and would like to hear thoughts. First off, it's a 150RR, with two corner overflows. The holes drilled are 1.5, so I'm going to be using 3/4" slip bulkheads. I presume this means I want to use 3/4 PVC? So the way this is plumbed will play some part in the equation of flow. I know that generally the average reef tank is plumbed behind each overflow box with 1 return and 1 drain, but hear me out. I would like to setup both holes behind my right side overflow box as returns pointing towards the left side of the tank. The left side of the tank will both be the drains. This will in turn provide a constant water flow cycling the tank. So you're probably thinking, well... you want it a little bit more random than that, Isaac. Got you covered. Two MP40's, placed on the back wall, essentially in a constantly flux of surging the water off the front pane, will provide that "random" flow all over the tank. In theory, this means my returns will only have one 90 degree angle on them (as the sump will be right below, and my drains will just be plumbed down along the 6' of tank and stand into the sump. Who sees problems with this down the line? Suggestions?Or... H-E-double hockey sticks yeah, do it?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattiejay6 July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/ That's what I'm using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 28, 2013 Author Share July 28, 2013 http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/ That's what I'm using. Very cool link, thanks for that! I don't want to dismiss it, but I'm REALLY happy with my durso overflow, think I will keep it! So before everybody goes ahead and realizes what a great artist I am, I want to let everybody know that I will not do sketches for you. Right side, returns, left side drains. Sump... hopeless, I want one of these, the 36. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 28, 2013 Author Share July 28, 2013 On that note... does anybody know of a reasonably sized sump that is not longer than 16" wide that I can run on this? I'm getting ready to price one out and see if it's not going to come out to about the same as what that link above is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 Why don't you try a 55g standard? Unless you need more room for the skimmer...12“ is tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 28, 2013 Author Share July 28, 2013 I would love a standard 55 under there. But I wouldn't be able to take the skimmer cup out, or do ANY maintenance. Stand is only 28" tall. I just measured, and I can probably do a 17.5" wide sump upon remeasuring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 It would seem to me that you'd want the drains to take a short path into your sump and make the returns longer if necessary. You can always up the size of your pump if you need more flow because of the friction in the returns, but you can't do much with gravity if the drains are slow. I guess you could up-size the pipe. Do all 4 holes durso drains and send the return in a big fat pipe up the center back and over with a sea swirl or something. Or just a locline Y and two flare nozzles pointing from the center to the two ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypertech July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 I think you are over thinking this. I'd set it up as herbie and not worry so much about the mixing or flow pattern. The mp40 will keep it all mixed up plenty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 i'd prefer the drains on separate oveflows in case of blockage and make sure one can handle all the flow. especially with the nems and other goodies that could release and cause problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 It's best to set the tank up as designed. 3/4" returns and 1" drains complement each other and flow characteristics can be properly planned. KISS. You can use a 20L or a 20H for a sump. I've stuffed media bags, filter sponge, Avast skimmer, and return pump into a 20H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Rhoads July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 Rob, from what I saw while at Isaac's house, both holes (on each overflow) are the same size. Are we missing something when it comes to bulkheads? It seems to me that if both (actually all 4) holes are 1.5" and that equals a 3/4" slip fitting, this tank is not designed to have 1" returns. Am I wrong on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 28, 2013 Author Share July 28, 2013 It would seem to me that you'd want the drains to take a short path into your sump and make the returns longer if necessary. You can always up the size of your pump if you need more flow because of the friction in the returns, but you can't do much with gravity if the drains are slow. I guess you could up-size the pipe. Do all 4 holes durso drains and send the return in a big fat pipe up the center back and over with a sea swirl or something. Or just a locline Y and two flare nozzles pointing from the center to the two ends. Very good points, Alan. I think you are over thinking this. I'd set it up as herbie and not worry so much about the mixing or flow pattern. The mp40 will keep it all mixed up plenty. Yep, I think you're right, I am over thinking, which is strange.... i'd prefer the drains on separate oveflows in case of blockage and make sure one can handle all the flow. especially with the nems and other goodies that could release and cause problems. An excellent point. I can't afford to lose 150 gallons onto my floor It's best to set the tank up as designed. 3/4" returns and 1" drains complement each other and flow characteristics can be properly planned. KISS. You can use a 20L or a 20H for a sump. I've stuffed media bags, filter sponge, Avast skimmer, and return pump into a 20H. That's good to know that you've been able to jam all that into a 20H. My sump has been concerning me for a long while now, that's reassuring information. Jason is right below though, the diameter on all the already drilled holes is 1.5", which means it's already setup for 3/4 bulkheads. Is there a way around this, without drilling? And is that way around it just keeping everything at 3/4's? Rob, from what I saw while at Isaac's house, both holes (on each overflow) are the same size. Are we missing something when it comes to bulkheads? It seems to me that if both (actually all 4) holes are 1.5" and that equals a 3/4" slip fitting, this tank is not designed to have 1" returns. Am I wrong on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebekwl July 28, 2013 Share July 28, 2013 this may help http://wamas.org/forums/topic/58911-used-sumps-for-sale/?hl=sump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now