algae outbreak cause by LED light, maybe!

[flooddc]

I recently swapped out my t5 for a d120 led (I removed all the optics for better coverage) on my 29G anemone tank. After  a few days I noticed bubbles trapped on LR rocks and back of tank. Then within the next few days everything started to get ugly! algae films that appears to be either dino...(I can't spell the rest) or calothrix. I should have snap a few pics for better ID. Anyway, I went ahead and reduced intensity on the LED as well as light cycle; H2O changed (15%); light-out for 36 hours. Today, all the algae appears to starved out. clean PH and return pump and increase return pump output a bit. Also, get ready for another 15% WC.

I hope this will be enough to get rid of those algae. I read that some people had to take down their tank to treat dino.

Just wonder how can a light upgrade can cause such outbreak?

So far my 2 GBTA are pissed off and moved around. They has rarely moved since I placed them in there.

RBTA did not move, fish don't seem to mind. Snails, however seem unhappy! 

Edited July 24, 2013 by flooddc

[ExoticReefCreations]

When you switched over to the D120, how long were you running the lights? Also, how long were you running the t5's before?

[Djplus1]

I hope not. I just put my reefbreeders photon 48" on a little over a week ago. How long till you saw algae?

[matt]

When you switched over to the D120, how long were you running the lights? Also, how long were you running the t5's before?

 

And...what is the led mix in your D120 layout and what relative intensities are running it on between the channels? Similarly, what t5 bulbs did you have?

[howaboutme]

Interesting you posted this...My cyano outbreak started right after I put my D120 on my 29G. At that time, my tank was in the 4/5 month mark and everything that I've read and been told said that it's normal for a tank of that age to go through those uglies. As a result, I wasn't sure the switch of fixtures did anything but I think it probably accelerated the outbreak as my previous lights were cheapo 2 bulb T5HOs. I currently still have a little bit of cyano (almost 2 months) left (I have a habit of overfeeding) so I still have my fixtures at about 30% power (give a take a bit for blue vs whites). Corals/fish/nem/shrimp/snails don't care, which is good. Interested to hear what others have to say as well.

[flooddc]

When you switched over to the D120, how long were you running the lights? Also, how long were you running the t5's before?

 

13 hours/day on a dual 65w pc (10k, 420nm and 460nm)

And...what is the led mix in your D120 layout and what relative intensities are running it on between the channels? Similarly, what t5 bulbs did you have?

Around 60%. Not sure about layout since I was not original owner. It has some red and green led (hate those color, will swap them out one of these day)

[flooddc]

Never encounter problem with my light upgrade on my 125 mix reef! This is strange, happen almost within the week after swapping out the light.

[Der ABT]

are you talking 13 hrs of t5 or of Power Compacts....

if its power compacts you had very little power and ill bet the nutrients were tehre just never had much light to grow.

 

also its important to note what LEDs you used, if yuo used greens/reds/violets etc and how many of each type of deal

 

 

id doubt it was caused by the lights, many others have switched to LEDs with no reported problems except increased number of posts with all blue pictures

[flooddc]

Interesting you posted this...My cyano outbreak started right after I put my D120 on my 29G. At that time, my tank was in the 4/5 month mark and everything that I've read and been told said that it's normal for a tank of that age to go through those uglies. As a result, I wasn't sure the switch of fixtures did anything but I think it probably accelerated the outbreak as my previous lights were cheapo 2 bulb T5HOs. I currently still have a little bit of cyano (almost 2 months) left (I have a habit of overfeeding) so I still have my fixtures at about 30% power (give a take a bit for blue vs whites). Corals/fish/nem/shrimp/snails don't care, which is good. Interested to hear what others have to say as well.

Cyano is much easier to control...has that when i switch to led on my 125. Still get the once a while.

[flooddc]

are you talking 13 hrs of t5 or of Power Compacts....

if its power compacts you had very little power and ill bet the nutrients were tehre just never had much light to grow.

 

also its important to note what LEDs you used, if yuo used greens/reds/violets etc and how many of each type of deal

 

 

id doubt it was caused by the lights, many others have switched to LEDs with no reported problems except increased number of posts with all blue pictures

Sorry it's was the current usa 130w pc fixture.

I switched to led on my 125G close to 2 years now with no issue. With this setup, i started out around 30% and increased 5-10% each day. This tank has lots of rubbles, chaeto and macro. I think it might be a combination along with the light that causes the outbreak. I am reduce it to 6 hours cycle and slowly tune it back to 12 or so hour assuming i can take it under control.

[zygote2k]

I believe that you had excess nutrients and the sudden increase in light allowed more rapid growth of algae- what Evan said.

[monkiboy]

I believe that you had excess nutrients and the sudden increase in light allowed more rapid growth of algae- what Evan said.

ding ding +1 especially with those red 660nm LEDs.

[YHSublime]

id doubt it was caused by the lights, many others have switched to LEDs with no reported problems except increased number of posts with all blue pictures

 

Hahahaha. It's funny because it's so true.

[Scott_LM]

I experienced the same problem.

 

I have a 120 with 2x250(20k) MH and PCs attached to a 29g sump and 30 breeder refugium/frag tank.  I experience little to no algae growth in the display but I get the same "jelly" type algae in the breeder that is lit by a D120.  I have very a few red and green in my layout.  I get great growth from the corals, but also the Dinos or whatever it is grows very well too.  I have just been siphoning it out when it gets bad.  My Nitrates and Phosphates measure near 0 for what it's worth.  I also have an ATS that grows algae very well, obviously the reason for the 0 readings.

[flooddc]

I believe that you had excess nutrients and the sudden increase in light allowed more rapid growth of algae- what Evan said.

 

 

ding ding +1 especially with those red 660nm LEDs.

Sound very reasonable. I recalled, you mention the 660nm for growing flame algae!

I just take a look at the light, there are 4 red leds in it. I guessed I have to dig out my soldering iron if it come back.

 

I experienced the same problem.

 

I have a 120 with 2x250(20k) MH and PCs attached to a 29g sump and 30 breeder refugium/frag tank.  I experience little to no algae growth in the display but I get the same "jelly" type algae in the breeder that is lit by a D120.  I have very a few red and green in my layout.  I get great growth from the corals, but also the Dinos or whatever it is grows very well too.  I have just been siphoning it out when it gets bad.  My Nitrates and Phosphates measure near 0 for what it's worth.  I also have an ATS that grows algae very well, obviously the reason for the 0 readings.

my was pretty bad outbreak...it was pain, but gave me an opportunity to re-aquascape  . I don't have coral in this tank so no need for red and green ones.

[monkiboy]

I just take a look at the light, there are 4 red leds in it. I guessed I have to dig out my soldering iron if it come back.

it will grow regardless, just that spectrum in particular is great at it. you are better off dealing with the underlying excess nutrient issue if it comes back.