sachabballi reef August 1, 2013 Share August 1, 2013 What's the rush? Why does it have to be done yesterday? Why not slowly acquire and build and if it takes a few months so what? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 1, 2013 Author Share August 1, 2013 Where can I buy a Blue BTA? Ok seriously, use threaded/slip. The thread will be in the overflow the slip will be on the outside. You can go from the slip to a 3" section of pipe then to a union. This will allow you to dryfit inside then go outside to glue. Also, if you ever need to change things the union will be right there to make it easy. Like this: 20120904_210141 by mteske1, on Flickr A BBTA It's a side effect of LEDs, I took another one yesterday with closer colors. So these are what you're suggesting. The idea is sound. What's the rush? Why does it have to be done yesterday? Why not slowly acquire and build and if it takes a few months so what? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Because it's my new bed. That and I've got a lot of big things coming up over the next couple of months, was hoping for a switch before life got in the way and I was sitting on my hands for a while here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT August 1, 2013 Share August 1, 2013 use flexible PVC not the clear tubing....i may actually have some extra though i havent actually completed the plumbing on my tank yet (and its been running a few months now haha) why dont you just get a smaller sump, one that fits the equipment and not much more (dont worry about a fuge yet, you could always do a HOB or a 10g or something on a stand so its gravity fed to your return pump and you just have to pump water into..... just like everything...soo many options and usually you realize what works best after you did it the other way....but changes can always be made and may lead to a better way.... but get the stand etc going so you can put water in it and get the cycle going....you dont need the overflows to start that or a skimmer for that matter, unless your just using old rock etc and wont really need a cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 2, 2013 Author Share August 2, 2013 use flexible PVC not the clear tubing....i may actually have some extra though i havent actually completed the plumbing on my tank yet (and its been running a few months now haha) why dont you just get a smaller sump, one that fits the equipment and not much more (dont worry about a fuge yet, you could always do a HOB or a 10g or something on a stand so its gravity fed to your return pump and you just have to pump water into..... just like everything...soo many options and usually you realize what works best after you did it the other way....but changes can always be made and may lead to a better way.... but get the stand etc going so you can put water in it and get the cycle going....you dont need the overflows to start that or a skimmer for that matter, unless your just using old rock etc and wont really need a cycle. Honestly, even a sump that was 16" tall is still a stretch. I'm sure once I get er' done I'll say "(insert any variety of profanity here) why didn't I do THAT?!" Stand is on it's way. This is my first time every building something, so it was daunting, but i think so far so good. I went with the design you left me on my other thread from Rocket on RC. It feels solid, and there are just a few steps I need to take in order to make sure it's done. I made it 22" Deep in order to fit my 16" deep sump. I actually accommodated to have 17" deep, but wanted room for play. I went with 40" high, with the 2 x 6 it ends up being 42" high total. I'll have no problems getting in there any playing around below, so that's really exciting for me. Might need an extra tall step stool for working in the back of the tank though! My only concern with the 22" depth, is my tank is 18", which means it will just barely rest on the outer beams. Do you think I should put some support beams down the middle, and along the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 Looks really nice! Nice job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 Good job Isaac! My comments....having your tank edge "barely" sitting on the horizontals is NG. Double up the horizontals (all of them if it's the case for all 4 sides) and make them sit on new 2x's at the corners. You'll have to cut that inside 2x down to the level of the bottom of the beam and then add another perpendicular to it (basically what you are doing but doubling up). For the new inside post, make sure that post comes up to the top of the horizontals..This will brace them better. Are you adding plywood at the top and bottom of the stand? I'd add a 2x cross bracing at the bottom too, similar to what you have at the top. What kind of fasteners did you use? Again, good job! You aren't messing around....Time doesn't stop for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 Just thinking about it a bit more. When you say you made it 22 inches deep, that's deeper (front to back) than your tank, so you're not going to be putting the tank on those long 2x6's going left to right. You're going to be putting it on a piece of plywood, I assume, and that will have to transfer the load over to the 2x6's which will then be transferring the load over to the end posts. Seems like it may flex a lot with 2000 pounds on it, but if you built it to the exact length of the tank, then at least the corners of the frame and the short edge will be resting on the load-bearing uprights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 2, 2013 Author Share August 2, 2013 Looks really nice! Nice job. Thank you! Good job Isaac! My comments....having your tank edge "barely" sitting on the horizontals is NG. Double up the horizontals (all of them if it's the case for all 4 sides) and make them sit on new 2x's at the corners. You'll have to cut that inside 2x down to the level of the bottom of the beam and then add another perpendicular to it (basically what you are doing but doubling up). For the new inside post, make sure that post comes up to the top of the horizontals..This will brace them better. Are you adding plywood at the top and bottom of the stand? I'd add a 2x cross bracing at the bottom too, similar to what you have at the top. What kind of fasteners did you use? Again, good job! You aren't messing around....Time doesn't stop for you. Thanks Jack! I was thinking what Alan said below... Just thinking about it a bit more. When you say you made it 22 inches deep, that's deeper (front to back) than your tank, so you're not going to be putting the tank on those long 2x6's going left to right. You're going to be putting it on a piece of plywood, I assume, and that will have to transfer the load over to the 2x6's which will then be transferring the load over to the end posts. Seems like it may flex a lot with 2000 pounds on it, but if you built it to the exact length of the tank, then at least the corners of the frame and the short edge will be resting on the load-bearing uprights. Correct, 22" deep, which leaves 17" open in between the top beams. The tank is 18" deep, so length of the tank will rest .5" on the front and back beams. I was hoping what you said, as it's built to 72" long (the exact length of the tank) that with a piece of plywood on the top, and then corners resting on the load bearing ur's. Try not to be awed by my mock up drawing skills... I know they're good: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 I would get a 2x4 and put it on the inside/top with wood glue and screws then put the ply on top of that just because I am OCD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 (edited) 1/2' is less than half of the 2x6. I wouldn't do it. Plywood does do what Alan says (gravity load) but it really helps resist twisting (think what alan did w/ his house to help w/ movement) and continuing would be like saying you have an 8" cmu foundation wall for a house but you only sit the perimeter walls of the house on 3" of that 8" cmu block. Your load should be uniformly distributed over the entire structure. Just my opinion. I've never built a stand so I can only transfer my knowledge in buildings to this subject. Adding those extra horizontals is not that much extra work or material..... Edit..yeah, 2x4's would work too but you probably have 2x6's laying around... Edited August 2, 2013 by howaboutme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 2, 2013 Author Share August 2, 2013 I would get a 2x4 and put it on the inside/top with wood glue and screws then put the ply on top of that just because I am OCD. I'm not sure I understand this. 1/2' is less than half of the 2x6. I wouldn't do it. Plywood does do what Alan says (gravity load) but it really helps resist twisting (think what alan did w/ his house to help w/ movement) and continuing would be like saying you have an 8" cmu foundation wall for a house but you only sit the perimeter walls of the house on 3" of that 8" cmu block. Your load should be uniformly distributed over the entire structure. Just my opinion. I've never built a stand so I can only transfer my knowledge in buildings to this subject. Adding those extra horizontals is not that much extra work or material..... Edit..yeah, 2x4's would work too but you probably have 2x6's laying around... Adding all these parts is not an issue, I hope my picture illustrates what you are talking about, I think it does. The black marks are the cuts I would make, the red ones are the additional 2x6's I would be adding (obviously on both sides, I didn't draw them on the right hand side. That is what you're talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 (edited) Yeah, pretty much. I would remove the 4 vertical inside legs as opposed to cutting it down so you can add the new 2x's first and sistered next to the existing 2x's. Then you would do your 3-2x legs except this time, bring the inside piece (the one you marked on) height to the top of the horizontals and not floating 1/4 of the way. Do you have the same issue on the short side? If so, do the same there. You're doing a stand within a stand. Bowiereefer is suggesting the same..just w/ 2x4's.... Edited August 2, 2013 by howaboutme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 What if he put 3/4 plywood rather than another 2x6? It flexes less, is stronger, and he could make it the thickness he wanted instead of needing to trim those inner 2x6 supportson the short ends. He could slather it with glue and screw it to the insides of the long 2x6's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 What if he put 3/4 plywood rather than another 2x6? It flexes less, is stronger, and he could make it the thickness he wanted instead of needing to trim those inner 2x6 supportson the short ends. He could slather it with glue and screw it to the insides of the long 2x6's. I'm not exactly sure what you're saying....are you saying add the plywood top and call it a day? It doesn't sound like it though... If so, I would say that's a 2nd option but only if you add another cross brace, spaced equally from end to end. This will lesson the span of the plywood and will help. But still..another hour of work and he has a tank that is built correctly...All this talk is making me want to build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 2, 2013 Author Share August 2, 2013 I'm not exactly sure what you're saying....are you saying add the plywood top and call it a day? It doesn't sound like it though... If so, I would say that's a 2nd option but only if you add another cross brace, spaced equally from end to end. This will lesson the span of the plywood and will help. But still..another hour of work and he has a tank that is built correctly...All this talk is making me want to build. So the pieces coming down the length of the side are 72" long (6ft). that means I have 1.5" to subtract from there, which means I would have two 69" 2x6's butted on the inside. Then repeat on the bottom, so four 69" pieces. Then you thing I should re-cut the 4 inside legs to actually run the whole 42" high, and have the bottom and top butt against the new 69" pieces I added on the inside? And then, cut the center "brace" down to fit in between again, and throw a piece of plywood on top as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 well..1.5" x 2...both sides. If you can wait. I will do a quick sketch up model for you tonight and post it of what I think should happen. I know the RC thread image shows that inside leg coming up half way or 1/3 up from the bottom of the horizontals but I don't agree with it.That said, if you want to save wood, you don't have to redo that part though you will still need to remove them to sister the 2 2x6's together... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holedup82 August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 Looks really nice! Nice job. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 I'm not exactly sure what you're saying....are you saying add the plywood top and call it a day? It doesn't sound like it though... I was saying that instead of using a 72 inch long 2x6 and sistering it to the inside of the current 2x6 he could cut a 72 inch long strip of 3/4" plywood to 5.5" wide and use that with glue and screws where he drew his red lines. Even though it's half the width of a 2x6 it should be stronger and resist bending more and might stiffen the long 2x6 more than just another 2x6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 2, 2013 Author Share August 2, 2013 well..1.5" x 2...both sides. If you can wait. I will do a quick sketch up model for you tonight and post it of what I think should happen. I know the RC thread image shows that inside leg coming up half way or 1/3 up from the bottom of the horizontals but I don't agree with it.That said, if you want to save wood, you don't have to redo that part though you will still need to remove them to sister the 2 2x6's together... I think I'm picking up what you're putting down. I can wait till tonight, and appreciate the offer. Right, my math adds up, but I didn't write about it. 1.5+1.5=3 and then 72-3=69" sorry about that. Redoing the legs only a 1/3 of the way up to the very top would mean buying a new slab of 2 x 6. I would have enough left over from the four 69" pieces that I could have 2 appropriately sized legs. Would it make a difference if I used one long and one short on opposite sides... think one long bottom left, on short top left, one short bottom right, one long top right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 I was saying that instead of using a 72 inch long 2x6 and sistering it to the inside of the current 2x6 he could cut a 72 inch long strip of 3/4" plywood to 5.5" wide and use that with glue and screws where he drew his red lines. Even though it's half the width of a 2x6 it should be stronger and resist bending more and might stiffen the long 2x6 more than just another 2x6. Oh, I see! Hmm...Good question. You got me thinking a bit...My concern is that the strength of the plywood, like you mentioned, is dependent upon being sistered properly to the 2x6 and the tank bearing on both the 2x and plywood....But the tank will in fact bear most of it's weight on the plywood, not the 2x6. In theory, it doesn't seem like the plywood on end would be able to handle that even if it is sistered to the 2x....Plus..the bearing point (the connection between the plywood and the legs) won't be very good as only 3/4" of material will touch the 2x leg, which may cause the wood fibers to fail from the point load (think of shooting a needle point into the wood..sort of).... Will think about it a bit more though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM August 2, 2013 Share August 2, 2013 2 sheets of plywood glued together! Then it's an LVL beam and could definitely take the load. You're right that it would just be the final 1.5" of material on the inside 2x6 at each end. I'm a plywood fan. I'd have built a 6 sided box the exact size of the aquarium footprint out of 3/4 plywood with no internal supports or dimensional lumber at all. Then I'd use a jigsaw (or router) to cut some holes for doors in the front, and called it done. Plywood can't rack in either direction because it's one big piece, and it can definitely hold the weight edge on in compression like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 3, 2013 Share August 3, 2013 2 sheets of plywood glued together! Then it's an LVL beam and could definitely take the load. You're right that it would just be the final 1.5" of material on the inside 2x6 at each end. I'm a plywood fan. I'd have built a 6 sided box the exact size of the aquarium footprint out of 3/4 plywood with no internal supports or dimensional lumber at all. Then I'd use a jigsaw (or router) to cut some holes for doors in the front, and called it done. Plywood can't rack in either direction because it's one big piece, and it can definitely hold the weight edge on in compression like that. yeah, I hear what you're saying and you're right for the most part. but remember, beams using plywood are engineered for specific applications. we dont' want to recreate that in our garage...besides, its easier to do good, straight cuts on 2x's w/ a mitre saw than on plywood w/ a jig saw or circular saw (or even table saw)....way faster too. Isaac, here you go! You don't need the extra set of 2x's at the bottom since they are sitting on legs that go directly to the floor and you have the other 4 horizontals to keep the stand rigid down there. Add the 2 cross members at where you want the sump to go. It doesn't have to be perfect but make sure the sump will set on both because since your sump is WITHIN the frame, if it doesn't sit on the 2 members, it will only sit on the plywood...not good. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 3, 2013 Author Share August 3, 2013 HAHAHAHAHAHAHA. Thanks Jack! That's hilarious, I haven't taken a bit of time to even look at the stand, my fiance standing by is the funniest thing I've seen all week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howaboutme August 3, 2013 Share August 3, 2013 Yeah, thought that'll give you a laugh! By the way, I'm assuming you will put plywood on the top and bottom sump area of the tank and also, you can do multiple cross members at the bottom at like 16 or 24" apart to give you flexibility on putting the sump while plumbing,etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 3, 2013 Author Share August 3, 2013 Yeah, thought that'll give you a laugh! By the way, I'm assuming you will put plywood on the top and bottom sump area of the tank and also, you can do multiple cross members at the bottom at like 16 or 24" apart to give you flexibility on putting the sump while plumbing,etc. Fair enough. It looks simple enough. Probably less than an hour of work to be honest, that's not including the home depot trip though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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