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I am imagining that rock covered in beautiful, colored SPS, ducati-style of course.  And I think it's going to look fantastic!  Any specific plans regarding fish?  Perhaps large groups of colorful schooling fish?  (Anthias, Chromis, etc?)

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Appreciate the comments.

 

I will continue playing the wrasse game; at this point I have 3 of 11 wrasse on my fish list.  Very disappointed with Bartletts, they were very aggressive and killed each other.  All the females decided to change sex, it was a disaster.  The activity reminded me of a large school of Chromis I kept several years ago.  Other than the wrasse, I need to seriously think about completing the fish stocking list. 

 

Lubbock C. lubbocki - purchased
Solon C. solorensis - purchased
Bluehead C. cyanopleura -
Exquisite C. exquisitus -
Hooded Fairy C. bathyphilus -
Carpenter C. carpenteri -
Lineatus Fairy C. lineatus -
Flame Fairy C. jordani - 
McCosker Flasher P. mccoskeri - purchased
Linespot Flasher P. lineopunctatus
Blue Flasser P. cyaneus
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Tony love the irregular design and the Tonga branch! Also the valley :cool:

 

The only piece that upsets my eye at all is the top left piece, that is cut perfectly level on top and bottom. IMO

 

I have a cut piece like that and I am trying to figure out how to make it work. I love that it has a flat top to attach pieces. I think I am going to try and add a smaller piece to the top of mine with Marco mortar off center which will allow for different heights of coral, and hopefully breaks up the horizontal line. Of course after the corals have grown out on it for 2 years it probably won't be a big deal.

 

Great progress! I am still sidelined with a pulled back muscle. :mad:

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The top left rock needed some assistance just as you pointed out.  I made a small change after I took the photos.  I added a small rock to give the rock a peak.  Now that rock blends in. The top left platform has a 10" diameter and I expect it to hold 3-4 corals.

 

The Tonga branch did not work as intended but I still like it.  My original idea did not look natural.

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Tony,

 

One option would be to take the Tonga branch and figure out how to have it come out of the sand right next to the mound on the right.

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Hey man like the scape! Warren said he had visited and heard your angels grunting. I thought that was cool, then realized the powerhead I thought was turning on and off at random times was actually our emperator grunting. Ha! I was about to take all my equipment apart to find the problem making the noise when Amanda told me it was the angel :)

 

How are the corals and fish doing? Are you planning on keeping the 65k bulbs when you add corals back?

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A couple days ago I lost my Powder Blue and McCosker, not sure why. :angry:  They were eating and swimming normally.  Corals are fine, doing weekly water changes to maintain levels.  Most likely will run 10k during the first few months as the system matures.  Running Iwasaki too soon could get the system out of whack during the algae cycle.  

 

I need to find a few pounds of good raw live rock with sponges and tunicates for seeding.  

 

Ammonia (.05 ppm) is beginning to show on the main display.  Looking forward to the ugly phase to begin.

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(edited)

Update:  Day 11

 

Ammonia: 0

Nitrites: not tested

Nitrates:  2 ppm

 

Diatoms are beginning to cover the sand, light Tan dusting on glass, and a few blotches of green patches.  

 

The algae cycle is beginning.  Getting a small CUC this weekend.  

Edited by ridetheducati
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No lights = faster cycle ?

Lighting schedule does not impact the speed of the cycle.  Water temperature and movement does impact the speed.  I run my lights so I can see how the cycle is progressing as opposed to testing.  When I begin to see diatoms, I know to begin testing nitrates.  Also, the ammonia alert is a constant indicator of the ammonia state.  Others do not like to run lights because they try to minimize the ugly stage, I welcome it because I have a highly trained and motivated nitrate and phosphate removal squad.  My squad plays with all equipment inflated.   :ph34r:  

 

The addition of corals and fish is at least 3 weeks out.  All of my QTs are online and ready for business.  

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Update: Week 3

 

System progressing as expected.  The cyano phase is complete and a few small turfs of green hair algae that 40 hermits will handle.  Picking up a few Cirrhilabrus for the quarantine tank and CUC for main display.

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Fish list

 

Naoko C. Naoko -
Lubbock C. lubbocki - purchased
Solon C. solorensis - purchased
Bluehead C. cyanopleura -
Exquisite C. exquisitus -
Hooded Fairy C. bathyphilus -
Carpenter C. carpenteri -
Lineatus Fairy C. lineatus -
Flame Fairy C. jordani - 
McCosker Flasher P. mccoskeri - purchased
Linespot Flasher P. lineopunctatus
Blue Flasser P. cyaneus
Leopard M. bipartitus - 
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You definitely have the wrasse bug.  Which exquisite-African or Fiji?  IME with those flashers I would get the linespot last or same time as the others, they can become jerks with new flashers.

 

I'm really looking forward to seeing your tank when its stocked

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Btw if you get a female for any of the fairy wrasses, the male will flare and change colors. My rubrisquamis does it a few times a day and it is phenomenal.

 

Also, in terms of compatibility, that jordani might get mean. Probably similarly tempered as my rubrisquamis. Mine is a big bully and only bows to my lineatus, who is larger.

 

--

Warren

Edited by wangspeed
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Majority of the wrasse will be quarantined in several tanks and all introduced into the main display at the same time.  Common tactic I use for all temperamental fish such as Angels, Tangs, and Wrasse.  For single additions, I have an isolation box in the main display to help with acclimation.  The Wrasse game can be tricky but with a good game plan and patience, it works.  I also have a cheat sheet that helps me remember what species to avoid, Pseudocheilinus, and potential for conflict/aggression.  For example, the C. scottorum is not on my list due to its aggression.  

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