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My 220 gallon rebuild


MBVette

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ok just dry fitted that and it worked. The 90* bend sits just over 2" at its lowest point, and the straight pipe is 4.5" high and leaving about 1.25" above that to the top of the overflow. You think that will work?

 

Sounds good to me. I wouldn't bother glueing the 90* on the secondary. You should just need to glue the straight pipe in the emergency, and I would leave the others pushed in firmly without glue (but that's just me).

 

Once you know it works you can glue everything permanently.

Edited by BowieReefer84
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I was just doing exactly what you said. Glueing the straight pipe b/c I know that wont change and will work on the 90* when I do the water test.

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I was just doing exactly what you said. Glueing the straight pipe b/c I know that wont change and will work on the 90* when I do the water test.

 

Yea, I am running that same style overflow, with an eheim 1262 return, and two Tunze 6095's in tank. It is a dead silent setup, other than a very small splashing sound into the overflow through the teeth because I have a lot of surface agitation. Fans on a light would make more noise than this entire setup. Also, I consider one of the best parts of this overflow is that there are ZERO bubbles in the sump due to the full siphon without any air entering the system.

 

You will love that setup.

Edited by BowieReefer84
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Thats why I decided to go this route, I wanted something very quiet. This is in the lobby of my building, so any gurgling just doesnt sound or come across all that well to new customers.

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just finished the plumbing, granted there is one connection I am not sure will work out well tomorrow when I do a water test on it, but I guess we will see.

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Wow, Scott you have been busy with this thread and I have been so busy with your build and others I failed to even notice the new thread till now blink.gif.

 

To address a few things here....

 

Back on Page 1 regarding baffle height...your baffles were setup to provide you optimal volume while maintaining enough available area to handle a power failure. Of course this could have been changed at any point prior to welding in the baffles to your liking ;). You don't have to worry about that ATO popping a seam though guys. That is an ArtFully Acrylic sump after all so is well built. H-E-double hockey sticks, even the baffle for the ATO chamber is 1/2" thick.

 

With your MP40's mentioned setup...see how it goes the way you described, but I would recommend a flip...the two MP40's midway down the wall containing the overflow and the single on the other side. Your returns are oriented high to get your surface agitation and push your surface proteins etc down to the overflow. Theoretically, I would presume this option as the more beneficial flow, but only testing will tell...and of course your aquascaping will play a role in this as well.

 

Regarding the recommendations by Bowie Reefer, once again he is right on the money. Outlaw even did the same thing on his. He had enough room for the elbow on the main siphon drain, but the height it was cut to was a bit off so was just easier to remove. The elbow isn't really necessary. In fact, only real function it serves is if you slot it similar to as shown on the Bean Animal site to handle any water slide junkies who manage to find a way into the "Park". tongue.gif However, the way your weir is setup the sheet of water overflowing should be so thin that these water slide junkies should not be gaining regular or even infrequent admittance.

 

Regarding the silence...yes, this is also why I love this system and recommend it highly. However, yours is configured with no teeth which makes it even more quiet biggrin.gif.

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Ok here is where I am at the end of the day. Tomorrow I am going to water test everything and see how it goes, and if it goes well I will probably fill the tank next week to start the cycle.

 

tank6.jpg

tank7.jpg

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Looks Like it is about time to change that signature ;-)

 

well I will wait till after tomorrow, when I make sure that the tank you built holds water :P (more like check to see if I am any good at plumbing)

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Couple points to add:

 

1. I would put the gate valve down lower. The closer to the drain exit the easier to tune the siphon (and it will be out of sight). I have mine right at the top of the sump about 5" from the drain exit.

 

2. The output on the full siphon should be about 3/4" into the sump. You want it just barely under the water.

 

LOOKS GREAT THOUGH!

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Couple points to add:

 

1. I would put the gate valve down lower. The closer to the drain exit the easier to tune the siphon (and it will be out of sight). I have mine right at the top of the sump about 5" from the drain exit.

 

2. The output on the full siphon should be about 3/4" into the sump. You want it just barely under the water.

 

LOOKS GREAT THOUGH!

 

That will be out of sight b/c the entire thing will be closed in by a custom cabinet (that guy is coming next week for measurements)

 

What is the reason for not putting the outputs all the way into the sump, wouldnt the deeper they go keep from any splashing or excess surface agitation in the sump?

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I have read it must be less than 1" for the siphon to work.

 

It's full siphon there will not be any splashing or bubbles. Heck you can even use single baffles because of this.

 

Watch this: http://flic.kr/p/deqUnY

 

That is my tank running with the eheim 1262 on. No bubbles or anything. Just smooth quiet flow. Ignore the pipe on front of tank (it serves no purpose).

 

EDIT - JUST put the emergency and full siphon <1" the secondary can go way down and you can put a U on it at the bottom or something... Use your imagination... haha

Edited by BowieReefer84
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With your MP40's mentioned setup...see how it goes the way you described, but I would recommend a flip...the two MP40's midway down the wall containing the overflow and the single on the other side. Your returns are oriented high to get your surface agitation and push your surface proteins etc down to the overflow. Theoretically, I would presume this option as the more beneficial flow, but only testing will tell...and of course your aquascaping will play a role in this as well.

 

I would think that with the 2 MP40's on the overflow side there would be to much flow going back to the right to allow much to get into the overflow. But as you said that is going to be trial and error to see what works best.

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well I will wait till after tomorrow, when I make sure that the tank you built holds water :P (more like check to see if I am any good at plumbing)

 

Umm Hmmm...I was about to say tongue.gif

 

 

I would think that with the 2 MP40's on the overflow side there would be to much flow going back to the right to allow much to get into the overflow. But as you said that is going to be trial and error to see what works best.

 

If you put them up high right under the overflow yes I would expect this to possibly be a problem, but 1/2 way or a bit more down I would think would create a pretty decent rotational current...Ahh screw it...just put one on each side wall and one smack in the middle of the front panel to cover all your bases...I'm sure the kids won't mindwacko.giflol

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(edited)

So I have water in it now, and it is running for about 30 minutes on hose water (I will empty the tank out later) and only have 2 small leaks in the plumbing. Adam the tank is holding water just fine.

 

I cut the full siphon and the emergency drain shorter as bowiereefer said, and it is running silent. I am about 15 feet from the tank and all I hear is a slight humming from the pump.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGy2MbS8cks

Edited by MBVette
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So I have water in it now, and it is running for about 30 minutes on hose water (I will empty the tank out later) and only have 2 small leaks in the plumbing. Adam the tank is holding water just fine.

 

I cut the full siphon and the emergency drain shorter as bowiereefer said, and it is running silent. I am about 15 feet from the tank and all I hear is a slight humming from the pump.

 

 

Awesomeness biggrin.gif, I would certainly have hoped so...a leaking tank of course would be bad for business =). And I can certainly see that the blue backer worked out just as I had hoped it would on there =)

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Now to figure out how to empty the tank.....

 

Remove hose end from water supply, direct towards nearest vegetation out front, use hand to form seal around hose end, apply mouth to end of hand, suck hard for 1-2 seconds and quickly direct hose end towards vegetation and let the plant thirst quenching commence biggrin.gif

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Oh I know that taste all to well. Going try and hook up a small pump I have to just pump it out. Starting a siphon on a 20' run is tough.

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