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Sharkey18's 250 build


Sharkey18

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Making a little more progress. FINALLY got the UV on line.

 

However, I am using a mag 24 pump and it is too noisy. The pump sits in the sump. Is there something I can put under it that will dampen the noise?

 

Next step: Setting up the dosing pumps.

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What's the recommended flow rate for the UV? The instructions for my 40w say that it will act as a sterilizer with a flow rate of ~900gph for up to 325 gallon tanks. A Mag24 seems like too much flow.

Edited by steveoutlaw
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Yeah I was trying to figure that out also.

 

 

How do I size a UV for a Reef Tanks?In salt water reef environments choose a UV that matches your flow rate per hour in the 30,000 or 45,000 columns of our chart. Flow rates in the 75,000 and 90,000 columns will destroy the planktonic food supply for the reef.

 

 

So I thought, if I wanted 30,000 to 45,000 I would need a flow rate of 1930 - 2900, but clearly I am reading this chart wrong. Help??

 

Edited by Sharkey18
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this link may be helpful:

 

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

 

*As a Clarifier; For Algae Control (Green Water and some Cloudy Water), 40-50 gph per watt is effective to maintain effective exposure for effective UVC sterilization/radiation (depending on model UV’s design).

High Efficiency (High Dwell/Exposure) UV Sterilizers such as the TMC Pond Advantage with long contact time as per the wattage and lamp can easily run as high as 50-60 gph per watt. The even higher efficiency (& dwell time) Pro Clear UV 30 can go 70+ gph per watt.

 

*As a Sterilizer; Generally for bacterial control (& many virus) a flow rate of 20-25 gph per watt (75-95 liters per hour, per watt), sometimes as high as 30-35 gph per watt for high efficiency UV Sterilizers such as the TMC Vecton UV.

 

*As a Sterilizer; For single cell parasite control (such as Cryptocaryon) as well as a few “stubborn” viruses, a flow under 10 gph (or even less) is necessary. This is often not 100% for all parasites of this type, so a UV Sterilizer should not be relied on as the sole preventative for these parasites!

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You need to slow the flow down a lot. You need a much smaller pump, I'd say 400gph tops as Ryan posted but more like 300gph.

 

 

Marine Ich, on the other hand, is one of the largest protozoa and will require a higher UV dose than most microorganisms you will encounter in the home aquarium. It requires 180,000 µws/cm2.

Info taken from here: http://www.emperoraquatics-aquarium.com/fish-ich_and_uv.php

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No. It's 10gph per watt. So 40w*10gph=400gph pump.

 

I have a 295gph pump on a 25w UV, which equates to 14.75gph per watt.

The 10 gph is a max limit or else ich will not have the exposure needed to be killed. You should actually probably even drop yours down or else it might not really be doing the job you are expecting it to do.

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True. But the gph is also measured after the UV, not before. The 295gph pump rating is before the unit. I haven't measured it after the unit, but I am sure it's under 10gph with the distance it has to travel, plus going through the UV itself.

 

"• When figuring the flow (gph) of a water pump, consider the flow of water AFTER it passes through the UV clarifier and reaches the aquarium or top of water feature in a pond. For instance water pump or filter rated at 400 gph at 0 head pressure & 6 feet maximum head pressure (which is how all pumps are rated), will likely only push about 200 gph after being lifted 3 feet from a sump or up a water feature."

 

Regardless, Laura has a 2400gph pump on a 40w UV which isn't even close to 10gph per watt. (It's actually 60gph per watt).

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Thank you Ryan and David!!!

 

I happen to have a brand new mag5 sitting around so I will hook that up today.

It seemed like the flow was way too high but I wasn't sure. Will be switching out pumps later today.

 

I do have to say even after one night running UV on a much too high setting to kill parasites like ick, my water clarity is still much improved. YAY!

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Yes. I had to remove the existing black background because it tore. Just haven't gotten around to paining, but now that the water is so clear I really need to get it done. It will be nice to not see everything behind, although I'll miss being able to see the tank from the fish room!

 

Any suggestions on what to use?

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Great job Laura.

 

I have used the usual black spray paint available at all hardware stores. Since you have fish in the tank I would tape something over the top like cardboard to block the potential paint splatter from entering the tank.

 

When it is time to remove the paint use citristrip (home depot carries it.) It removes the thickest oldest paint with ease.

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Laura,

 

I use a white poly cardboard that is held on with velcro. If I need to see in the tank I just pull it off. I got mine at Home Depot for $12 a sheet, 3' x 6'. It is in the aisle where the plexi glass is. You could probably paint it with a krylon plastic paint.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Acrylic-Sheets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbrdgZ12ky/R-202771364/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

 

If you want a colored type look online there a few places that sell it.

 

http://corrugatedplastics.net/48x48_Black_4mm_Corrugated_Plastic.html

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Yeah, the tank is coming along.

 

What you can't see in the pics is that there are a bunch of spa frags in there already and I have a lot more coming in on the ORA group buy. A few more weeks of collecting and placing frags and it will be sit back and watch it grow time.

 

I also added three lyretail anthias to the tank today. There was already a single female in there and there were some disagreements amongst them but I turned the lights out and hopefully they will all decide to be friends tomorrow. The male of course was hiding, letting the females fight it out.

 

I am also pleased with the radion lighting. So far everything I put in is holding its color well, and some of the brownish frags I added are starting to color up. I think I am on the right track by going very very slow in the light acclimation process. Unfortunately I still have a few more weeks to wait before I increase either the intensity or time. Being patient is sooo hard.

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