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Neto's 20 gallon Shallow Reef


Neto

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I just noticed the pic of your sump with the heater. Looks like the heater is out of the water a good bit. I know those ehiem jager heaters can be fully submerged, but Im not sure about a minimum water water level. To me it looks like too much is out of the water.

 

Thanks for warning me, I think that the only part that gets hot is the part with the coils near the bottom, the top part of the glass doesnt really get hot. Anyways I will put it down a bit more.

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That's great news! I'm glad it's working for you. The right flow does make all the difference in these systems. I've always had mega flow in my tanks. It keeps the sandbed nice and clean.

 

I increased the flow in the tank, I replaced a 240 gph with a 550 gph powerhead and the algae is 95% gone!

Edited by Jan
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I used Red Slime Remover with great success before. While using that, it helps immensely to siphon out the algae and change flow of water. The more turbulent the water, the better...

 

Also, and this is way more important than all, time will take care of it. These things usually happen while the tank is cycling. I thought my tank would never be algae free, but it is gone now never to return! Patience and good husbandry are keys to algae problems IMO.

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Yeah, sometimes its frustrating to find the source of a problem. I had a perfect 10g tank, 90% algae free, coraline growing like crazy, all corals including SPS where growing great, but since I changed everything from the 10g to the 20g alot of things changed. Now its coming back!

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You may want to consider using Boyds - red slime remover. I purchased mine on Amazon. Prices can't be beat for a 300 gallon treatment. It's an enzyme. It worked great for me and caused no ill effect in my tank.

 

Yeah, sometimes its frustrating to find the source of a problem. I had a perfect 10g tank, 90% algae free, coraline growing like crazy, all corals including SPS where growing great, but since I changed everything from the 10g to the 20g alot of things changed. Now its coming back!

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I tried the UltraLife Red Slime Remover because I found around in the forums that it worked fine, like the Boyds version, but it did not work much.

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I think I used Boyds. But now that you mentioned upgrading your tank I think it might be a tiny cycle that you are going thru. Keep up with water changes and regular water tests. I promise you, it will go away...

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That's a piece of art right there. Really amazing. The fact that you built it from scratch and now this is just amazing. Great job! This is a tank of the month tank. From the build all the way to what it looks like right now. Congratulations!

Edited by Jan
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thanks alot guys, it means alot!

 

I still need to work on my shooting techniques, I have a Nikon D3100 but I suck at it and those pictures are with my smaller camera. I will take my time soon and take more pictures!

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Wow, Im not sure how I missed this. Very nice work, another example of how a small tank can easily rival a large one when the aquarist keeps scale in mind.

 

I did notice this though:

 

Parameters are:

  • Salinity: 1.025 (swing arm)

 

I know that the hydrometers can provide reasonable results if you are careful and overcheck yourself a few times... but please do yourself a favor and get a refractometer. Much easier to use and much less error prone when compared to a hydrometer, especially when you factor temperature correction in.

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  • 5 weeks later...

This is one of the coolest tanks yet, i love the look of it. If you dont mind me asking how much did the tank and lights cost you. Im a hs student so i have a limited budget but i like how this looks .

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Wow, Im not sure how I missed this. Very nice work, another example of how a small tank can easily rival a large one when the aquarist keeps scale in mind.

 

I did notice this though:

 

 

 

I know that the hydrometers can provide reasonable results if you are careful and overcheck yourself a few times... but please do yourself a favor and get a refractometer. Much easier to use and much less error prone when compared to a hydrometer, especially when you factor temperature correction in.

 

Chad is 101% correct.

 

My swing arm shows my salinty is 1.022 when checked with a refractometer its 1.024.

Edited by surf&turf
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  • 1 month later...

Wow, Im not sure how I missed this. Very nice work, another example of how a small tank can easily rival a large one when the aquarist keeps scale in mind.

 

I did notice this though:

 

 

 

I know that the hydrometers can provide reasonable results if you are careful and overcheck yourself a few times... but please do yourself a favor and get a refractometer. Much easier to use and much less error prone when compared to a hydrometer, especially when you factor temperature correction in.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I do have it on my mind, its just that everytime I get money for the tank, I keep buying corals xD

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This is one of the coolest tanks yet, i love the look of it. If you dont mind me asking how much did the tank and lights cost you. Im a hs student so i have a limited budget but i like how this looks .

 

Below I will provide the prices for all the materials, remember I did all the labor as a DIY..

 

Tank

Glass: $120 (4 low-iron, 1 bottom, 3 drilled holes)

Silicone: $15.00

Total: $135.00

 

 

Stand

Wood Panels: 2 0.5" birch panels $45.00 ea = $90.00

Wood Glue: $10.00 (2 bottles)

Frame: some 2x4's = $30.00

Screws: $15.00

Total: $145.00

 

Tank + Stand ran me up at around $400 with all the plumbing and misc items..

 

Light

LEDS: 18 cree leds (9 rb, 9cw)

Heatsink: Heatsinkusa.com

Drivers: 4 buckpucks rated for 1A each

Screws, wire, miscs, acrylic sheet (cover)

Total: $350.00

 

 

Now, you will need equipment such as:

 

table saw (cut the panels)

 

 

- milter saw (cut 2x4's)

- wood clamps

- soldering iron (solder leds + wires)

- drill (screws, etc)

- drill press (optional but recommended for drilling holes on the heatsink to hold leds)

 

You will also need to be handy and creative =)

 

 

 

Thanks for the compliments!!

Edited by Neto
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Status Update

 

New Equipment

- Koralia Evolution 550 gph

- Salifert Magnesium test kit

- API Reef Test kit (calcium, alk, nitrate, phosphate)

- Kent Iodine Supplement

 

New Corals

- War Coral frag (not in picture)

- Superman Montipora frag (not in picture)

- Miami Hurracane Chalice frag (not in picture)

- Red/green blastomusa (not in picture)

 

New Fish

- 3 Green Chromis

- 1 Small Yellow Tang

- 3 blue leg hermit crabs

 

 

I know that tangs need alot of space to swim, so far he has been happy and eating alot. I think this is the best fish I have ever had because it keeps my rocks algae free. I have allot of fish 6 total but I do not have nitrates and I feed allot of food! I think that one of the key success of this hobby is to introduce allot of food to the tank and export allot of nitrates. All my corals look extremely healthy.

 

 

This is a picture after a few weeks in january, I need to work with my camera settings so I will take the time this week to take better pictures:

 

DSC_0045.jpg

DSC_0023.jpg

Edited by Neto
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  • 2 weeks later...

Neto,

 

I noticed in one of your sump pics you have your chaeto, in the same chamber as your return...even if you have the filter on the intake of your return have you noticed any clogging or other issues from the return?

 

I want to keep to some chaeto in my sump, but only have 2 chambers..like you..just not as big a return chamber.

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Neto,

 

I noticed in one of your sump pics you have your chaeto, in the same chamber as your return...even if you have the filter on the intake of your return have you noticed any clogging or other issues from the return?

 

I want to keep to some chaeto in my sump, but only have 2 chambers..like you..just not as big a return chamber.

 

 

I havent noticed any clogging or other issues from the return however you do need to have the intake filter on the return.

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