Prime's 75 gallon build

[.OptimusPrime.]

Well I took the plunge about 2 weeks ago or so. I have a lot to learn and have most of the equipment. I apologize in advance if I have posted this incorrectly.

 

Any input is greatly appreciated (negative or positive). Here's what I have so far:

 

- 75 gallon tank/stand/canopy - I initially went with a LifeReef HOB overflow but returned it because it was just to bulky and decided to drill the tank instead. I however, have yet to do so, since I'm too chicken :P If anyone is in the MoCo area and has the equipment or can drill for me let me know. Id rather not pay 25 dollars a hole from the LFS here.

 

- Lighting: Tek elites 6x54 (still in box) in mind, but I would prefer LED's. and I would like to keep my canopy.

 

- Skimmer: Reef Octopus 150 NWB

 

- Return: Eheim 1262

 

- Heaters: 2x150W Jagers

 

- Powerheads: 2x750gph koralia evo's

 

- Sand: 90LBS of tropic eden reef flakes

 

- Rock: ~70lbs of dry rock from BRS. It was 100#s I sold some because I did not have room in my sump and the DT looked way too crowded. Now it just looks soooo bare!!!!

 

- Sump: 30G with a bubble trap. I only have space for the return and skimmer. I did have a chamber for the rock but it was suggested to remove the baffle to make more space for the return pump because I would have too much evaporation and the pump would run dry.

 

- RO/DI unit ordered Friday!!!

 

Now for some pictures!

 

First shipment from BRS and i couldnt be happier!

 

The package was amazing! Sooooo many peanuts!

 

Sorry for the crappy pics. Took it with the cell phone.

 

Tank i picked up from CL. 175 for the whole lot (stand/canopy/tank)

 

30 gallon sump. Will finish that this weekend since I now have the skimmer to use as a guide for spacing you can see the glass baffles I had cut on the HD bucket.

 

First Package

 

Soooo many peanuts!!!

 

First set of goodies - Koralia evo 750 -x2

 

Eheim 1262 Return

 

Reef Octopus NWB-150

[.OptimusPrime.]

Second Package!

 

Even more peanuts!

 

First Bag of the Eco Saver Dry Rock from BRS

 

Second Bag

 

Rock in the tank - I have not set them up or anything yet. Needed the room so in the tank they went for now.

 

Third package

 

Bags of more eco rock!

 

Smaller Bag

 

Big Bag

 

[.OptimusPrime.]

HD Egg Crate! Will need to find a way to cut it since it is too big to fit the tank.

 

 

First Package from Premium Aquatics!

 

 

 

2 150W Ehiem Jager Heaters!

 

Second Package:

 

 

60LBS of Reef Flakes!

 

 

 

Third Package:

 

 

 

MORE FLAKES! 90lbs total!

 

[.OptimusPrime.]

It aint pretty but the sump baffles are done.

 

The horrible white silicone from HD makes it worse than it really is I swear!!!

 

That last baffle near the return is now gone. and its only the return and skimmer sections now.

I ordered a 1.5" bulkhead from BRS to match the overflow box that I am building. Dimensions of said box will be 6"Lx2"Wx4"H.

Need suggestions on how to do the return.

 

Should I place the overflow in the center with 2x 3/4" returns in each corner?

 

Overflow in the corner with the 2 3/4" holes still in the corners?

 

Or just a 3/4" hole in one corner and call it a day?

And if you drill holes or have to tools to let me drill let me know!!!!

Also, sold about 30#s of the rock and the tank looks bare

 

I haven't aquascaped or anything yet...

Any other suggestions or input is much appreciated.

 

Edited September 11, 2011 by .OptimusPrime.

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

Sweet post I felt like it was christmas when I read it, then realized all this stuff was for you. Shoot...

I don't think the white silicone is good for reef tanks, pretty sure it has some mold resistant chemicals in it. You should probly use clear 100% silicone with no mold resistant stuff. I am not sure what it will do if anything if you use it how you have it but I am sure someone can tell you.

 

Sweet pickup from craigslist too!

[hypertech]

The color of the silicone doesn't matter. But, you are right that you don't want the stuff with mildew inhibitor in it. Ge number one I believe is the stuff you want. It comes in all colors. Most likely clear and black are sitting on the shelf right next to white.

[.OptimusPrime.]

The color of the silicone doesn't matter. But, you are right that you don't want the stuff with mildew inhibitor in it. Ge number one I believe is the stuff you want. It comes in all colors. Most likely clear and black are sitting on the shelf right next to white.

 

Thanks for confirming that for me. It is GE silicone I from HD the window and door stuff just in white. Thats the only color I saw of the stuff when I went to HD.

 

Anyone have suggestions on how to plumb the returns??

 

Should I place the overflow in the center with 2x 3/4" returns in each corner?

Overflow in the corner with the 2 3/4" holes still in the corners?

Or just a 3/4" hole in one corner and call it a day?

Edited September 11, 2011 by .OptimusPrime.

[zygote2k]

1.5" drain needs at least a 1" return.

[.OptimusPrime.]

1.5" drain needs at least a 1" return.

 

Would 2x3/4" achieve the same thing?

 

Or would one 1" return work? or should I do two (one in each corner)?

 

Or forget drilling the whole thing for returns and just have it come over the tank?

 

[.OptimusPrime.]

bump for return help

 

anyone have pictures of over the top returns and returns using bulkheads?

[Chad]

2 x 3/4 is not the same thing as a 1.5.

 

If you go through an area calc, you will find out that the cross sectional area for TWO 3/4" pipes is 0.88" where with the 1.5 it is 1.78" in area.

 

I actually prefer to plumb everything with 1.5 or larger and go with reducers where I need them near pumps. Larger pipes = less head loss = more efficient = more flow for a given system. I use http://www.pondarama.com/html/friction_loss_charts.html for guidance.

[Coral Hind]

1.5" drain needs at least a 1" return.

 

Why at least 1"? What damage would be done to only use a single 3/4" return which is what I would do?

[hypertech]

A 1.5" drain is huge for a 75. I run a herbie on a 1" drain and still have to restrict it quite a bit. Unless you are running a monster pump (and then I would ask why), you don't need plumbing that big.

 

I do a 3/4 return over the top. You are welcome to stop by and look if you want but I don't have any pics handy.

[.OptimusPrime.]

A 1.5" drain is huge for a 75. I run a herbie on a 1" drain and still have to restrict it quite a bit. Unless you are running a monster pump (and then I would ask why), you don't need plumbing that big.

 

I do a 3/4 return over the top. You are welcome to stop by and look if you want but I don't have any pics handy.

 

Pump is an ehiem 1262 wouldnt consider that monster, but it was during a sale and only a few buck more than the 1260 so I bought it.

 

1.5" sched. 80 bulkhead Im kinda stuck with. It was basically free and to return it would cost me more lol

 

I'd love to stop by and check out the system, but that depends on where you are

[hypertech]

Alexandria.

 

That 1262 might be too much for a single overflow. I had one and it pumped so much water it shot through the overflow teeth and made lots of waterfall noise. I returned it for a 1260 which is better.

 

That said, I might go back to it if I ever need to replace the pump and set it up on a manifold to supply a couple reactors too.

[.OptimusPrime.]

Alexandria.

 

That 1262 might be too much for a single overflow. I had one and it pumped so much water it shot through the overflow teeth and made lots of waterfall noise. I returned it for a 1260 which is better.

 

That said, I might go back to it if I ever need to replace the pump and set it up on a manifold to supply a couple reactors too.

 

 

 

Depending on where in Alexandria, it's at least an hour from me :( thanks for the invite though maybe if I'm ever down your neck of the woods I can stop by.

 

I plan on having a valve on the return to adjust the flow rate back to the tank.

 

Check around on ebay for a diamond glass bit 64mm (per BRS recommendation) shipping is like 10-22 days from China or UK...

 

So I will probably get the tank drilled (1 hole for the overflow box) tomorrow at the LFS unless someone can convince me to drill more holes for the return....

Edited September 12, 2011 by .OptimusPrime.

[Ryan S]

I would go with the overflow in the center with 2x 3/4" returns in each corner. I love the look of loc line with a flare nozzle at the end. I think it looks really sharp. Everyone has told me with my 40g to go with 2 returns over 1. Plus I like that it looks symmetrical with 2 of them.

[.OptimusPrime.]

I think I'm going to do the same thing you are.

 

Have the overflow in the middle and have two returns on each side.

 

That being said does anyone see any problems with using these parts for the returns?:

 

http://www.bulkreefs...-head-side.html

 

http://www.bulkreefs...dular-hose.html

 

http://www.bulkreefs...6-segments.html

 

http://www.bulkreefs...dular-hose.html

[hypertech]

Go over the top. Less holes less chance for cracking. Also, you can generally setup them up so the siphon breaks faster and less water drains to the sump in a power outage.

[steveoutlaw]

You need to make sure you read the tube of silicone. The Window and Door GE stuff that I have used has mildew inhibitors so you probably want to re-do your sump with something that is reef safe.

 

As for the tank, that is a H-E-double hockey sticks of a find. That looks to be a really nice stand, not the cheap stock stand that usually comes with them. Nice pick up!!

[.OptimusPrime.]

You need to make sure you read the tube of silicone. The Window and Door GE stuff that I have used has mildew inhibitors so you probably want to re-do your sump with something that is reef safe.

 

As for the tank, that is a H-E-double hockey sticks of a find. That looks to be a really nice stand, not the cheap stock stand that usually comes with them. Nice pick up!!

 

 

 

Ahhh crap.... is there a straight answer?? LOL was it the GE I or II stuff that you used?

 

I thought the general consensus was that GE I Window and Door was safe regarding of color, but the Kitchen and Bath had the mold inhibitors....I dont have the tube anymore so ill have to run to HD to check it out...

 

Thanks on the stand..I agree it was H-E-double hockey sticks of a deal :D

 

Drilling the tank tomorrow hopefully...the LFS said they'd call if they didnt have a 2.5" hole saw for the 1.5" schedule 80 bulkhead...

[Coral Hind]

You'll be fine with your chaulk. From personal conversations with GE's lab the "mold inhibitor" is actually a formula that keeps the pH of the chaulk low enough to prevent mold from growing. If used in large amounts it may lower the tank pH for a short time but you will be just fine.

[.OptimusPrime.]

You'll be fine with your chaulk. From personal conversations with GE's lab the "mold inhibitor" is actually a formula that keeps the pH of the chaulk low enough to prevent mold from growing. If used in large amounts it may lower the tank pH for a short time but you will be just fine.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

If I wanted LEDs over the tank capable of growing everything how much total wattage would I need over my 75?

 

/shrug i think I'm just going to return the Tek Elites and spring for LEDs. I don't need lights right away anway right?

 

I was reading this over at RC and it got me interested.

 

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2009776

 

vendor website: http://www.eshinesystem.com/aqua/cree-led-aquarium-light.html

[trockafella]

Stick with the Tek T5's..

[Integral9]

I agree w/ Coral Hind in that you will probably be ok. Also, the color doesn't matter. If you read the label on your caulk tube it will say "Anti Mildew" or something similar to that if it has the inhibitors. if it doesn't, then it doesn't. The GE Silicon I can come both ways I believe and it's very easy to grab the wrong color tube in the aisle at HD. I think all the GE II stuff has the inhibitors. Also, fwiw I found the "100% Silicon" in the same aisle as the sheets of acryllic and it's "for bonding materials together". At least that is were I found it at HD in Sterling. It's *not* in the caulk aisle. I've been up and down that aisle, many times.

 

Larger pipes = less head loss = more efficient = more flow for a given system

That doesn't make sense to me, but my advice is to keep the same sized tubing the pump outputs to. ie: If there is a 1" output on the pump, use 1" tubing. Increasing the tubing size from the output on the pump will increase head pressure. Same is true for decreasing the tube size, barring any wyes, Ts, or manifolds.

 

If you split the tubing, you can keep the same size tube if you want, but that will increase the head pressure as you'll effectively double the amount of water being pushed up the plumbing after the split. So the closer you can get to matching the cross sectional area of the original tube with the combined cross sectional area of the smaller tubes, the less head pressure you'll have. Also, I highly recommend using a distributor or wye / true-wye instead of a T.

 

pi * 1^2 = 3.13 <- 1" cross sectional area

pi * .75^2 = 1.76 <- 3/4" cross sectional area. Need 2 to be equal to what a 1" pipe can carry. It's a bit of overkill, but more efficient that 2 1" pipes.

pi * .5^2 = 0.78 <- 1/2" cross sectional area. Need slightly more than 4 to equal what a 1" pipe can carry. 4 is probably ok though.

 

T5s are great still and much cheaper to start off. TCO though can be higher in the long run. But you'll have to think about any loss you might take on returning / reselling the T5 fixture and add that to the increased price of the LEDs then, divide that by the cost of the T5 bulbs to figure out how many years it will take to break even. There are also power savings with the LEDs to factor in, but it's not like T5s consume huge amounts of power either. The calculations I've seen suggest it would take between 3-5 years depending on the T5 and LED fixtures compared.

 

Looks like you are off to a good start though.