How to start the nitrogen cycle

[B216adkins]

Hello again fellow aquarium lovers! I have a major question "How do you start the nitrogen cycle"? When the water clears up does the tank automatically starts the cycle? I now have live rock that has not been used in 2 months so I guessing its dead. Once I start the cycle will the rock come back alive? Also i have read things about adding a hardy fish? What is a hardy fish? I was told once the cycle have started in 2 weeks add a clean up crew. Also I have a nano aquarium does the pump have to stay on? Does both lights have to stay on or can I keep the blue light on. The white light has a fan to it and its kinda loud. How will I know when the nitrogen cycle is over? Is the nitrogen cycle when algae builds up?If,so do I need to change the water during this time?

 

Thanks to anybody who can help

[onux20]

Welcome to the hobby.

 

You don

[zygote2k]

Just pee in the tank to get the process started. Fuel up on good vitamins the day before and you'll give your tank some trace elements too.

[Happyfeet]

Just pee in the tank to get the process started. Fuel up on good vitamins the day before and you'll give your tank some trace elements too.

 

+1 If you have a nano only do a small pee into the tank.

[Origami]

We were discussing this subject recently at this link:

 

http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/39090-ok-tanks-upnow-what-lol/page__view__findpost__p__333572

[armymedic]

Hey man,

hows it going? i am about a week ahead of you!

 

I didnt pee in mine, even though i seriously thought about it. I used pure ammonia from a hardware store. Simple one for that is the shake test. if you buy/have ammonia and you shake the bottle, if its pure it shouldnt foam up or bubble up. Put that stuff in there until your ammonia is about 3-5 PPM or just really darn dark on the test strip.

 

I am using my old live/now base rock and about to put a couple of live rock pieces in myself just to help it along. I did put ALOT of live rubble rock in the sump area just to help out. alot of my stuff is already turning brown...i think thats a good sign???

 

Good luck and remember us noobies are just a PM or email away!!

[Jan]

Here is the simplest, as well as very accurate, explanation you will find about cycling with several options on how to start cycling your tank. Note the test kits recommended. Once you see what happens during a cycle you will understand why it's important to have the kits listed.

http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

 

I've started a few tanks and accelerated the cycle by using live sand and live rock from my other tank.

[B216adkins]

Here is the simplest, as well as very accurate, explanation you will find about cycling with several options on how to start cycling your tank. Note the test kits recommended. Once you see what happens during a cycle you will understand why it's important to have the kits listed.

http://www.fishlore....trogenCycle.htm

 

I've started a few tanks and accelerated the cycle by using live sand and live rock from my other tank.

 

 

Ok the cocktail shrimp method. Does the shrimp need to have the shell? Also is there any products that I need to buy to help test the ammonia?

[Jan]

Just purchase a basic marine aquairum test kit. Look for one that has; Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH tests. You wont need any other tests at this stge of the process.

 

The essentials for starting a marine tank are-

Tank

Lights

Heater

Thermometer

Hydrometer (for measruing salt)

Circulation; pump, HOB filter, etc..

Salt mix

RO (bottled) or RO/DI water

Rock; Live or dead

Sand is optional. There are many reeferes who have bare bottom tanks.

If you use live rock and sand your cycle will go by quicker

Test kit that should include; Ammoinia, Nitrites, Nitrates & PH

 

If you follow the Nitrogen chart on fishlore you'll see where you are in your cycle. Once you've cycled your tank be careful about how much bioload you add at one time. Sometimes there is a soft cycle that follows. You'll see an ammonia spike. Ammonia and nitrites kill fast. Introduce hardy cleaners, only after the tank is finished cycling, and make sure you feed them something like pellet food. Pellets don't break down as fast and they are usually low in phosphates

 

Shortly after your system has cycled you may see a thin brownish algae. This is normal for a newly cycled tank. It's diatom algae. It goes away on it's own. Then you'll see little tiny specs of white critters moving on the glass. These are pods. this means that your system is good and there's life.

 

Here a chart of parameters to use as a guide. http://reefkeeping.c...5/rhf/index.php

 

Oh, and before you introduce fish to your system you should have a hospital tank/QT tank. It's as simple as a small tank, 5 or 10 gallon, with a light, heater and a HOB filter. Nothing fancy. Nothing expensive. no sand or rock go into a QT. You would take water from your existing, already cycled tank, and add it to your QT. Just replace the water in your tank with new mix.

 

Before you introduce corals into your new system you should get a good coral dip. You should dip all corals to reduce the possibility of introducing pests into your system. REVIVE is very good.

 

 

Ok the cocktail shrimp method. Does the shrimp need to have the shell? Also is there any products that I need to buy to help test the ammonia?

Edited September 10, 2010 by Jan

[Coral Hind]

I would recommend using a product like Nutrafin Cycle.

[zygote2k]

I'd recommend the only test kits you buy are N03, Alk, and Ca.

Throw rock, sand, water, salt in a tank.

Mix well with a powerhead until clear.

Add 1 fish of your preference.

Wait 2 weeks and if fish is not cooked, add 1 more fish.

Wait 2 weeks and test for No3.

 

This is how everybodt did it back in the day.

We didn't worry about Ammonia or Nitrite then and for the most part, it's not something that you should worry about now.

[Chad]

It is how everybody, including me, did it back in the day. However, it isnt/wasnt really necessary and it is usually difficult to a) catch the "lucky" fish (damsel) that went in first when you dont want it anymore and b) find someone who does want it when you are done with it. It is certainly a method that does work, but why not go with others that work just as well without fish, like one of the available products or if you want to go low budget like peeing in the tank.

[BowieReefer84]

Dumb question, but do you need to cycle your tank if you are using rock that has been in another tank for years and has not dried out? It seems you could add the rock straight to the water and be good? Not trying to change the question. I think that has already been answered anyways with lots of valid points.

[Jan]

YAAAHOO! The wild wild west method. Yes, I for one didn't understand the basic chemistry but that's because the resources weren't as available as they are today. I lost many starter fish unecessarily. I DO NOT recommend this method. It doesn't have to be. Having a little piece of the reef in your home is very cool and authestically pleasing. I think for many of us the objective is keeping it all alive. That's where the pride comes into play for me.

 

Be responsible and knowledgable about reef keeping. It will save you LOTs of money, lots of time and lots of heartache. Understand at least the basics of what is going on. Once you've gotten past the cycling, reef keeping is fairly simple and easy to maintain. Back in the day we used undergravel filters, very little rocks, if any, and lots of filtration. We've turnd to nature in keeping a home reef. Why not try to understand why and how it works? Let's try to preserve it all.

 

 

I'd recommend the only test kits you buy are N03, Alk, and Ca.

Throw rock, sand, water, salt in a tank.

Mix well with a powerhead until clear.

Add 1 fish of your preference.

Wait 2 weeks and if fish is not cooked, add 1 more fish.

Wait 2 weeks and test for No3.

 

This is how everybodt did it back in the day.

We didn't worry about Ammonia or Nitrite then and for the most part, it's not something that you should worry about now.

Edited September 10, 2010 by Jan

[Jan]

Yeppers! Live sand too. That's how I just did it for my seahorse tank.

 

Dumb question, but do you need to cycle your tank if you are using rock that has been in another tank for years and has not dried out? It seems you could add the rock straight to the water and be good? Not trying to change the question. I think that has already been answered anyways with lots of valid points.

[Chad]

Dumb question, but do you need to cycle your tank if you are using rock that has been in another tank for years and has not dried out? It seems you could add the rock straight to the water and be good? Not trying to change the question. I think that has already been answered anyways with lots of valid points.

 

If you get LR that has been in another's tank for years and treat it like a fish (maintain water temp, transport wet, etc) and you put it into your tank with a comparable or less bioload than what you took it out of (accounting for the other tank's sand, refugium, or other surfaces for bacteria to grow that you will not be transferring to your tank), then you are all good. It is game on for fish/corals.

[BowieReefer84]

If you get LR that has been in another's tank for years and treat it like a fish (maintain water temp, transport wet, etc) and you put it into your tank with a comparable or less bioload than what you took it out of (accounting for the other tank's sand, refugium, or other surfaces for bacteria to grow that you will not be transferring to your tank), then you are all good. It is game on for fish/corals.

Ok, the reason I ask is because my tank has been up for about 3 years and the rocks are really great with lots of purple and coralline growth. I want to upgrade to a larger tank with better rock shapes through the use of puty and rods. I was planning on putting my current rocks in the sump, and the new rocks (Marco) in the display. I would keep a low bioload for the first 3-4 months. I just want to make sure I should NOT add any ammonia in this situation. I realize I may still get an algae bloom. Just thinking about what might happen.

[B216adkins]

I would recommend using a product like Nutrafin Cycle.

 

ok thanks I will try that method

[Chad]

No, you should not add any ammonia in this case. You may see a small "cycle" because of any dieoff that may occur while you have the rock out of the water and are messing with it (especially any sponges that you have), but you dont need to add any ammonia.

[Jan]

The only time you MAY want to add ammonia, as an option, is when cycling a "new" tank. I mean a tank with dead rock and sand. when upgrading or transferring existing LR if you keep the rocks out of water for a while there will be some die off. If they have sponge on them, as Chad mentioned, the sponge may die and that may lead to a soft cycle = ammonia spike.

 

Ok, the reason I ask is because my tank has been up for about 3 years and the rocks are really great with lots of purple and coralline growth. I want to upgrade to a larger tank with better rock shapes through the use of puty and rods. I was planning on putting my current rocks in the sump, and the new rocks (Marco) in the display. I would keep a low bioload for the first 3-4 months. I just want to make sure I should NOT add any ammonia in this situation. I realize I may still get an algae bloom. Just thinking about what might happen.

[Jan]

This information should really be pinned in the newbie section.

 

http://www.fishlore....trogenCycle.htm

 

Just purchase a basic marine aquairum test kit. Look for one that has; Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH tests. You wont need any other tests at this stge of the process.

 

The essentials for starting a marine tank are-

Tank

Lights

Heater

Thermometer

Hydrometer (for measruing salt)

Circulation; pump, HOB filter, etc..

Salt mix

RO (bottled) or RO/DI water

Rock; Live or dead

Sand is optional. There are many reeferes who have bare bottom tanks.

If you use live rock and sand your cycle will go by quicker

Test kit that should include; Ammoinia, Nitrites, Nitrates & PH

 

If you follow the Nitrogen chart on fishlore you'll see where you are in your cycle. Once you've cycled your tank be careful about how much bioload you add at one time. Sometimes there is a soft cycle that follows. You'll see an ammonia spike. Ammonia and nitrites kill fast. Introduce hardy cleaners, only after the tank is finished cycling, and make sure you feed them something like pellet food. Pellets don't break down as fast and they are usually low in phosphates

 

Shortly after your system has cycled you may see a thin brownish algae. This is normal for a newly cycled tank. It's diatom algae. It goes away on it's own. Then you'll see little tiny specs of white critters moving on the glass. These are pods. this means that your system is good and there's life.

 

Here a chart of parameters to use as a guide. http://reefkeeping.c...5/rhf/index.php

 

Oh, and before you introduce fish to your system you should have a hospital tank/QT tank. It's as simple as a small tank, 5 or 10 gallon, with a light, heater and a HOB filter. Nothing fancy. Nothing expensive. no sand or rock go into a QT. You would take water from your existing, already cycled tank, and add it to your QT. Just replace the water in your tank with new mix.

 

Before you introduce corals into your new system you should get a good coral dip. You should dip all corals to reduce the possibility of introducing pests into your system. REVIVE is very good.

Edited September 17, 2010 by Jan