jason the filter freak July 19, 2010 Author Share July 19, 2010 Here is a solution attaching your locline with heatsink... Aluminum flange base for LocLine http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=1010 Haha wow I was really excited until I saw the price tag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 19, 2010 Author Share July 19, 2010 i also did a fair amount of work on the electronics area yesterday and i have photos of that as well although i cant intergrate them yet due to me being mobile. i ended up removing some non structural parts of the stand which is going to give me more internal space and made the electronics cabinet around an 1" deeper than was originally expected. this is going to allow me to be able to use either 80 mm fans or even 120 mm fans to cool the items in the electronics cabinet. it was also to add clearence for the eventual adding of a dc 8 which im assuming is pretty thick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 19, 2010 Author Share July 19, 2010 So when I got the stand there were a fair amount of holes in the side When all is said and done I'm going to skin the outside of the stand in luan ply and paint it but for now they're just ugly. So initially I'm going to try to go with 80 mm fans 1 intake and 1 discharge to cool my electronics but I'm going to leave enough room so that if I need to I can run 120mm fans When all is said and done the fan intakes will be covered in these louvers and the stand and louvers will be black. I also completed some work on the electronics compartment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind July 19, 2010 Share July 19, 2010 Nice cover up. A little wood putty and it look like new. Are you going to place the fans next to each other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 20, 2010 Author Share July 20, 2010 Fans will be kitty corner ish to each other to draw air across the electronics bay/compartment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelin315 July 20, 2010 Share July 20, 2010 Lowes sells 12" or so light extenders that have wiring and a socket on one end and a socket base at the other. You could modify one of those to fit your purpose. They are made of loc-line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 22, 2010 Author Share July 22, 2010 (edited) Did some more design and a tad more stand work over the past couple days, here is some more of my professional CAD diagrams FYI: If you can't read something for most browsers you can zoom in by hitting ctrl and + a couple of times, ctrl and - to zoom back out some and ctrl and 0 to zoom back to default. On the return above the ball valve I will most likely have a T off with another ball valve to allow the return to be used to drive a media reactor as well. Ok so I think I'm going to go with 24 leds for the canopy, I'm not really going to be growing corals all that much as much as I want to showcase colors the led # and color I think are laid out pretty clearly So 10 whites, a blue, and a royal blue on one strand 6 royal blue, 2 blue, 2 red, 1 green, 1 unknown on another strand the optics are still to be determined, the reds and green are most likely going to go on a fairly focused optic because they will be used to spot light certain things, the whites and most blues/royal blues on pretty wide optics. Edited July 22, 2010 by jason the filter freak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 23, 2010 Author Share July 23, 2010 Any thought on the amount or placement of the leds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 July 23, 2010 Share July 23, 2010 (edited) Any thought on the amount or placement of the leds? 24 is not nearly enough LED's in my opinion (I would double that). Even without keeping SPS, having to space them as far apart as you would due to the size of the canopy there would be 24 little spot light effects going on. If that is what you want more power to your, but if you want even distribution you should add more. It is my understanding they should all be within about an inch of each other to not have spotlighting. Also, depends on the optics of course. 80 degrees would help elimate the spotlight. Also, you do not need the XP-G cree if you are only going to only have sps near the top. The regular Cree LED's would do fine from my understanding. I am no expert. I have emailed some correspondance with different sellers, and this is what I am basing my opinion on. Please take other's input as well. I may be missing something. I really would like to see the different colors, that will be an awesome effect to hit differet corals with different light spectrum! Edited July 23, 2010 by BowieReefer84 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trockafella July 23, 2010 Share July 23, 2010 With all that work, why not just build an oversized stand or cabinet next to it. Good luck if you drop something back there.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 23, 2010 Author Share July 23, 2010 I think the external stands are ugly. I saw a 29 today lit with 12 leds I think I'll be pretty happy using 24 to light my tank, still if anyone has thoughts or input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 23, 2010 Author Share July 23, 2010 With all that work, why not just build an oversized stand or cabinet next to it. Good luck if you drop something back there.. i find that having extra stuff like that makes a tank look sloppy and messy the point is sleekness and intergration. the reason im doing so much planning is to prevent having to worry about things like leaks, difficulty wiring, having impossible to access places etc. as a matter a fact when all is said and done i plan on ahving the stand visually dissapear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treesprite July 24, 2010 Share July 24, 2010 So do those holes look like a DIY job, or a factory job? If they were DIY holes, are you sure you want to use that tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 24, 2010 Author Share July 24, 2010 So do those holes look like a DIY job, or a factory job? If they were DIY holes, are you sure you want to use that tank? The holes in the stand are a diy job, the holes in the tank are factory. I'm confident in the integrity of both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire July 24, 2010 Share July 24, 2010 (edited) on your LED setup, are you planning for dimming or adjustable height to control the intensity? Also, when you decided to purchase driver, let me know...let go in together for saving shipping cost Edited July 24, 2010 by thewire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 24, 2010 Author Share July 24, 2010 i will be going dimmable as I will have a controller capable of doing so (look for avast marine to be carrying it soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire July 24, 2010 Share July 24, 2010 i will be going dimmable as I will have a controller capable of doing so (look for avast marine to be carrying it soon) RKL + ALC capable of dimming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 24, 2010 Author Share July 24, 2010 The electronics door is completed as is the moisture barrier, tomorrow I will begin patching holes and crevices with wood filler and mounting that front lip. After that it will be time to paint the inside of the stand, and skin the outside of the stand. Pic a color and trim and finish the stand. I will probably then plumb the tank and give it a wet test and if all goes well begin running the tank while I'm finishing the canopy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewire July 25, 2010 Share July 25, 2010 I have decided to buy a Reefkeeper Lite level 1...hopefully to add a ALC down the road. I think I can use the myreef app and get access on my controller via PC remote desktop or VPN or logmein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 25, 2010 Author Share July 25, 2010 so the electronics compartment and stand are very nearly completed, does a negative pressure environment (fan drawing air out of the electronics compartment slightly faster than it can enter) or a positive pressure environment (the fan forcing air in slightly faster than it can escape) work better for controlling the temp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 26, 2010 Author Share July 26, 2010 prior to the fantastic downpour and power outtages i managed to patch and wood sill the gaps and seams in the stand. i also managed to sand and install the lkp. the next steps will be to paint the inside of the stand with epoxy/acrylic paint, skin the ouside of the stand and the paint and trim the outside of the stand and oh yea build the canopy. i wil be adding the pics i took yesterday prior to the power outtagesl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind July 26, 2010 Share July 26, 2010 so the electronics compartment and stand are very nearly completed, does a negative pressure environment (fan drawing air out of the electronics compartment slightly faster than it can enter) or a positive pressure environment (the fan forcing air in slightly faster than it can escape) work better for controlling the temp? The best situation would be to make sure you are not drawing humid air from the inside of the stand, instead pull in the room area which would be at a lower humidity level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biscuit July 26, 2010 Share July 26, 2010 My physics may be a bit rusty so someone can correct me if I am wrong but using the Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT) as your pressure drops inside a closed volume, your temperature will drop as well. Therefore drawing air out faster and creating a "negative pressure" inside your sealed box (semi-sealed, but close enough for the theory to work) will keep temperatures lower. The temp will therefore be increased in the opposite pressure situation. Now again this is all in theory as your box is not fully sealed nor is it an Ideal Gas, but it should be safe to make the assumption. Anyone want to confirm this for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 26, 2010 Author Share July 26, 2010 yea the air is definately going to be room air and non humid as possible by placement of fan, im just debating whether to have the fan pushing air into the compartment or sucking air out. there is going to be a louvered intake/output on oneside of the comparment and a replicated intake/output on the other side with a fan to actively move air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak July 26, 2010 Author Share July 26, 2010 Thanks biscut, good and interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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