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My overflow construction


treesprite

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I finally got the first stage of getting my overflow done, which was to pay a visit to the glass shop. Sadly, the glass won't be ready until Tuesday.... I'm itching to get this job done!

 

Overflow is Calfo style, going all the way across the back of the tank (my drain holes are at the top of the tank).

 

The glass for the face is 7", and the depth (front to wall) glass is 3". I had to put a lot of thought over a couple months into the dimensions, and that's what I ended up deciding.

 

How far from tank top should I put the top of the overflow?

 

I need to know what to do for an overflow guard. I want something that will keep critters out, but that the fish will not get stuck on top of to die if they jump, but at the same time will not interfere with surface skimming.

 

Any thoughts? Anyone want to talk about their Calfo overflow experience, or give any suggestions before I start with the silicone?

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(edited)

Could you use eggcrate over the overflow? If a fish does jump on top of it I am sure it would flop itself off of it.

Edited by Coral Hind
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I would love to see pics of your set up! are you doing it on glass or acrylic?

Glass.

 

Could you use eggcrate over the overflow? If a fish does jump on top of it I am sure it would flop itself off of it.

Does no good for small fish, they will go right through it. What I used for the 65 and the hex was that plastic strip that goes along the back of glass tank covers, which works rather well, but I don't have 4ft of it laying around.

 

I miscalculated the length of the glass, so was 1/8th" too long. I had to use a dremmel with some diamond-coated cutting discs to cut 1/8th" off the end of each piece - worked well enough.

 

I put in the bottom of the box about an hour ago, tank on its side. I need the silicone to set before I flip the tank upright to install the front piece.

 

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The Calfo overflow on my 240 is about 1.5" below the top of the tank. There is a plastic piece on the front and sides of the tank about the same width, so that the top level of the water is behind the plastic strip (looks full).

 

I have nothing to keep fish from the overflow. When I first started up the tank, it seemed like I found a fish in the overflow or the sump every week, and had to put it back in the tank. They learn after a while - haven't seen one go over in 2 years.

 

bob

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^hehe, my fish have all been dumb too.

 

Could also make a small section of rigid edged screen like a window screen (although not as fine of mesh as window scree, I am thinking like what is used for covers sometimes), although if you go this route, I would make it easily attachable and removable because it will probably require regular maintenance to keep clean.

 

Also, you could put a bunch of notches in a piece of acrylic across the entire section and silicone it in place.

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I had a Calfo overflow and loved it. It is easy to run out of hands when trying to build one of these. Here is a tip I found very helpful...

 

Cut a few wood blocks. Carefully measure where you want the overflow to go, and then use a hot glue gun to secure the blocks on that line. Rest the glass against those blocks until the silicone sets up, and then just pop them off the glass.

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(edited)

Pictures underneath.

 

Do you people with these long overflows have some sort of brace between the front of the overflow and back of the tank? I have some small pieces of glass and was going to make one, but I keep messing up my cut for not being able to keep such a small piece from slipping off it's guide line.... would be easier if I didn't need one.

 

Silicone got messier than planned - I hope the residue comes off the glass without me scratching anything up. I forgot to remove the masking tape where I put silicone under the bottom of the overflow, until the silicone had already dried, so I ended up with a flap all the way across that I had to trim off with a razor - sloppy to do in that location, so hopefully the uneven line won't be easily visible under there when the tank is up on the stand.

 

I will be putting the trim of the tank back on - it was not secure on the tank when I got it, which saved me the trouble of trying to get it off.

 

of1.jpg

 

of2.jpg

 

Just showing the amount of space is enough to get out a "stupid fish".

of3.jpg

 

I want to be able to use one of the holes a hole to hook my pump directly, but not sure if that would work in this situation....?

Edited by treesprite
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I never used a center brace on my 6' Calfo. I think you will be OK. Just clean it up and you are good to go!. They are a handful aren't they.

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I put a divider between the holes. I was thinking perhaps I should do that in case I want to try directly connecting my pump... I had tried it with the 65, but the holes all are in one space, so the pump kept sucking up all the water so all the other holes got nothing.

ofdiv.jpg

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I think you will have to put a fitting on the bulkhead and face it downward so air doesn't get sucked into the pump. Even with that fitting in place, depending on the pump size, air may still get into the pump.

 

 

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I think you will have to put a fitting on the bulkhead and face it downward so air doesn't get sucked into the pump. Even with that fitting in place, depending on the pump size, air may still get into the pump.

 

 

I'm hoping that the big problem before was that the holes on the 65 are on the bottom of the built-in external overflow rather than in the wall, and that the length of the overflow was too short to allow more water to keep up with the pump. THe only way I can keep the water level enough that there is no gurgling water-starving noise is to have the stand pipes in the box on 2 of the holes (the 3rd takes in the most water, but the water level stays high enough to prevent the noise).

 

Can't wait to water test the overflow. Once that's done, I can get my kid to put the tank on the stand for me, and go out for plumbing parts.

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(edited)

I broke the front glass.

 

I had taken the front piece of glass back out and drilled 4 x 3/4th holes in it for returns. The holes seemed ok. I was putting in the bulkheads before re-installing the glass, then was sticking little pieces of PVC into them - got a little too rough putting in one of the PVC pieces.

 

I'm not buying a new piece of glass. I re-installed the shortest "half", then the longest half, which included sealing the break, and that included using the bulkhead for that hole as part of the repair (w/out the gasket). There was a straight break above the hole, and a triangle piece of glass broken off under the holes - I sealed the straight break when installing the second piece of glass, then put in the triangle piece, then put the bulkhead in which kept the pieces in perfect alignment, so there wouldn't be a problem trying to put a bulkhead in later.

 

I'm hoping some coralline covers the repair really fast.

 

This is the kind of thing that kept me from taking a risk of drilling returns in the tank itself.

 

I'll have to post about my plumbing another time.

Edited by treesprite
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(edited)

You are going to have the return pipes pass through the overflow? Can you show some pics as I am having trouble picturing this?

 

Nothing beats my "in-box" overflow for price and function. biggrin.gif

Edited by Coral Hind
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Yep, returns will pass through the overflow wall - I didn't want to have to have the returns going over top of the overflow. Will have to post a pic later.

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When I put the plumbing in for real, it will be painted black....

 

ofbhs.jpg

 

ofbhs2.jpg

 

This is the repair

repair-1.jpg

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What is the purpose of the partition inside the overflow?

You didn't want to bring the returns over the back you say, but it seems like that's exactly where the manifold that supplies the returns will have to go...

How are you going to ensure that each return pushes the same amount of water?

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I just didn't want the returns to go over top of the overflow, which they would have had to do because the overflow goes all the way across. There are 2 of 1" returns which will splt above the overflow. I tested flow by putting similar splits (1" into 2 of 3/4th") on the returns in the 65 - this will actually have more flow than that because teh pump will not be so far and won't have to go around bends.

 

 

I put that divider in there just in case it would be of any use in the future, and for bracing, and it might make things easier for maintanence, and might keep me from having to completely shut off my tank to catch a stray fish.

 

I don't think each of those needs a hole in it if there are holes in the pipe above them, but if I need to, I will have to do it. I do, however, always figure siphon space into the equation.

 

I did not put a hole for the refugium return - it's only 1/2" and that won't be a big deal going over a top corner.

 

With that overflow, the entire top of the water column is going to be in constant motion across the top of the tank front to back. The returns a few inches below, I was thinking, will go against it creating a sort of undertow like would make a wave.

 

 

I have a WAV from which 2 of 1" returns come. Bruce said it wsasn't made for splits (but down on flow), but I checked it out in the 65 with the mock up of splits and it was ok. That's going to make the two returns on the left alternate with the two on the right (the change in flow is gradual, not a burst), so I may end up with a little churn in the center of the tank - will have to see what happens.

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So how much has all of this cost so far? It seems like you might have saved money with a DIY kit from glassholes...

 

This cost me roughly $80.00. Glass Holes does not have what I needed, and it would have cost me a lot more to have settled for what they do have. Their kits include the cost of drill bits and I already had one. Apparently there is no silicone included in their kits. I have been wanting a full-length overflow for a really long time, and I'm sure it will be worth a lot more than what I spent.

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