txaggies07 October 10, 2007 Share October 10, 2007 I was thinking about replacing the sump I have underneath my 72g for something a little larger. I was thinking using the dimensions 24" x 12" x 16" for the sump. I was wondering if anyone here has some good sump plans. I just want a pretty standard sump, that has more capacity than my current one and also has some dividers so I can put filter media and keep my rock from sliding into my pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnguyen4007 October 10, 2007 Share October 10, 2007 If you can find a used glass tank with that similar dimension, you can buy a sheet of acrylic and cut out the baffles for it, then applied silicone to the baffles and the tank to hold them in place. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishcam October 10, 2007 Share October 10, 2007 I was thinking about replacing the sump I have underneath my 72g for something a little larger. I was thinking using the dimensions 24" x 12" x 16" for the sump. I was wondering if anyone here has some good sump plans. I just want a pretty standard sump, that has more capacity than my current one and also has some dividers so I can put filter media and keep my rock from sliding into my pump. I am literally silicon-ing my DIY 30x12x12 sump tonight. I'll take some pics. and post em for ya! d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txaggies07 October 11, 2007 Author Share October 11, 2007 Awesome, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason the filter freak October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 I am literally silicon-ing my DIY 30x12x12 sump tonight. I'll take some pics. and post em for ya! d I would really like to see this too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbartco October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 Go to marc levenson's site for some ideas www.melevsreef.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRehman October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 (edited) I have a Tidepool II wed/dry biowheel with filter trays (in the For Sale forum) which I was very happy with in my 72 g reef w/15 fish (20 for 3 months while I moved tanks). $95 obo. Edit...OKAY..it wasn't DIY... Edited October 11, 2007 by NRehman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishcam October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 Here you guys go! Without the overflows and pump, I think I spent a grand total of $60 bucks including the tank. My first sump too, so I'm pretty happy with it. The silicone (bought at petco) says it needs about 48 hours to dry 100% so Friday night, I'll pluger in and see if she runs. Jason- that overflow and pump should look a little familiar http://www.ddoud.com/digi2001.jpg http://www.ddoud.com/digi2002.jpg http://www.ddoud.com/digi2003.jpg http://www.ddoud.com/digi2004.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnguyen4007 October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 That looks real good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txaggies07 October 11, 2007 Author Share October 11, 2007 Fishcam - How much was your total cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grav October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 Sorry to be the one hitting you with this news. Your sump has a fatal flaw. Given where the waterline is going to be based on the height of your "over" baffles, when the power goes out, I expect that you are going to have water on the floor. Nice workmanship though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txaggies07 October 11, 2007 Author Share October 11, 2007 (edited) He might still be ok...I know mine only rises a half centimeter or so when the power goes out. Also, if you do have a problem...maybe we can check it with my system and if it works then maybe I could buy it off of you and then you could use the money to make a new one. Just a thought at least. Edited October 11, 2007 by txaggies07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Ward October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 Sorry to be the one hitting you with this news. Your sump has a fatal flaw. Given where the waterline is going to be based on the height of your "over" baffles, when the power goes out, I expect that you are going to have water on the floor. Nice workmanship though. I'm going to have to agree. I know my sump rises 6-8" when I kill the power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 If you point the return lines properly you can reduce the flow back and reduce the rise in the sump. You don't have a lot of room to play with as some have pointed out. Put one of your returns just under the waters surface and it itself will act as your siphon break. Siphon break holes in the return can fail more often than swing arm backflow valves becuase they clog easily. I'm sure someone will jump me wrong momentarily but we will never hear from them when they get the flood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishcam October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 Fishcam - How much was your total cost? Lets see, the total cost was: $20 for the tank, on dollar per gallon day at petco and I spent about 60 bucks on materials for the sump, but I dont remember their individual cost. I got: 4ft of 1.25 tubing for the overflow, 15ft of 3/4 tubing for the pump, a giant acrylic sheet for the baffles and lid, silicon from petco, some hose clamps, and a cutter... I think thats about it. I bought the actual overflows and pump from Jason, so that was a great deal, all in all WAY under what you would have to pay for a new one, plus it was fun to build. So far as the power going out, you guys are probably right, I've only got about 2in from the top o the baffle to the rim, so I might have to cut out a few inches from the top and re silicon. :( But hey thats what fish guys do right? I guess it all depends on where I place the overflow teeth, and if they can supply enough water. It should be 100% dry by friday night, so thats when I'll give it a test. Cross your fingers! d If you point the return lines properly you can reduce the flow back and reduce the rise in the sump. You don't have a lot of room to play with as some have pointed out. Put one of your returns just under the waters surface and it itself will act as your siphon break. Siphon break holes in the return can fail more often than swing arm backflow valves becuase they clog easily. I'm sure someone will jump me wrong momentarily but we will never hear from them when they get the flood. Thanks chip. I was planning on putting the returns very high, to agitate the surface since I love the shimmer it gives the metal halides. I was also toying with the idea of a check valve, so if the power did go out, I would only have to worry about the overflow leveling off and thats it. All that being said, I did actually forget to calculate what that would be when I got home from home depot and just started working Hopefully it will be OK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rascal October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 (edited) Given where the waterline is going to be based on the height of your "over" baffles, when the power goes out, I expect that you are going to have water on the floor. Can't he avoid this just by setting the water level in the return section of the sump at only a couple of inches above the pump? From the looks of the pictures, that would give the water a good 6-8" to rise in that section before it got above the overflow baffles, and then it would have another 2" to rise before it overflowed the sump. Granted, this would lead to noise and microbubble issues with that much of a drop going into the return section, but it should avoid a flood if other methods are also employed to reduce the amount of back siphon and overflow drain. Fishcam: instead of cutting it out and re-siliconing, you could just take a dremel and cut some holes or overflow teath into the tops of the "over" baffles. Edited October 11, 2007 by Rascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishcam October 11, 2007 Share October 11, 2007 Can't he avoid this just by setting the water level in the return section of the sump at only a couple of inches above the pump? From the looks of the pictures, that would give the water a good 6-8" to rise in that section before it got above the overflow baffles, and then it would have another 2" to rise before it overflowed the sump. Granted, this would lead to noise and microbubble issues with that much of a drop going into the return section, but it should avoid a flood if other methods are also employed to reduce the amount of back siphon and overflow drain. Fishcam: instead of cutting it out and re-siliconing, you could just take a dremel and cut some holes or overflow teath into the tops of the "over" baffles. Haha! We are on the same page. I thought about that today at lunch. I'm excited to see if I need to do anything, but Im with you on the teeth idea for sure. I def dont mean to hijack here, but in the other part are you saying the pump level will be lower than the global level of the sump? thanks! d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grav October 13, 2007 Share October 13, 2007 If you are redoing it, here is my 2nd suggestion. You have an over-under-over, the end result is water has to fall from the top of the last over to whatever the water level is in the last section, this can cause bubbles. I would rather have an under-over-under... fewer bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman October 13, 2007 Share October 13, 2007 If you are redoing it, here is my 2nd suggestion. You have an over-under-over, the end result is water has to fall from the top of the last over to whatever the water level is in the last section, this can cause bubbles. I would rather have an under-over-under... fewer bubbles. Good point. I just made a sump - and incorporated multiple tragic design flaws. And this was my 2nd one. The first one was a better design, but poorer construction. But the new one LOOKS great. The third one will probably look good AND function properly! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishcam October 13, 2007 Share October 13, 2007 Well I redid the tubing with PVC and am waiting a few more hours for the curing to be done. After its all set up and running I'll post some pics. I really like how it turned out, and doing PVC work wasnt that bad at all. I had never cut any pipe before. d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhogan October 14, 2007 Share October 14, 2007 Can't he avoid this just by setting the water level in the return section of the sump at only a couple of inches above the pump? From the looks of the pictures, that would give the water a good 6-8" to rise in that section before it got above the overflow baffles, and then it would have another 2" to rise before it overflowed the sump. Granted, this would lead to noise and microbubble issues with that much of a drop going into the return section, but it should avoid a flood if other methods are also employed to reduce the amount of back siphon and overflow drain. He could do that, but as you mentioned it will lead to microbubbles, and he will have to fill tank up with evaporation water more often (unless he plans to use ATO). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishcam October 14, 2007 Share October 14, 2007 He could do that, but as you mentioned it will lead to microbubbles, and he will have to fill tank up with evaporation water more often (unless he plans to use ATO). Actually, I get microbubbles carried over from my overflow drain. I've put a sponge in between the drain outlet and the first baffle, which reduces it a little, but I still have a pretty wretched problem. Any advice for the drain? It lets water out under the water level as well as air. Could I put a T joint on there and have one pipe going up to let the air out and one going into the sump? Do other people have this problem? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rascal October 15, 2007 Share October 15, 2007 Could I put a T joint on there and have one pipe going up to let the air out and one going into the sump? Yes. Another thing that works well is to have the water enter the sump at an angle rather than straight down, which you can do by putting a 45 before the T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now