traveller7

I can't recall seeing an O'dell, All-Glass, or Perfecto tank made without a floating bottom since the Meta Frame days and slate bottoms. Not sure whether it was physics, the sides in rim, ease of construction, etc., which prompted that design. I'd do my best to duplicate the original build. Has contact with the Glass Cages folks been worthless?

It is easier to construct without specialized tools in a sides on the bottom approach because the base becomes the alignment tool. This is a DIY'er method. Remember most commerical aquariums with rims have the bottom panel floating and the weight is distributed fully to the 4 sides. I don't believe I have seen a Glass Cages tank constructed in that fashion. I have not seen the Solana, is the bottom panel floating?

I can't help you with this, in the only similar reconstruction I have attempted, the panels were so heavy they determined the depth. In my situation, the 90 degree clamps strictly maintained perpendicular angles. The angle clamps did not pull the panels together, gravity provided this function and I used angle braces on the tops post construction. Since the bottom sits inside the sides....I am not sure you will end up having much choice on depth. Have you trial fit the panels yet to determine if a certain depth is required for an actual "cube" result?

I doubt I would use spacers on rectangular tank for duty outside of positioning the clamps, jigs, braces, etc. The rubber tile spacers are handy for test runs and protecting the glass edges prior to the final attachment. I did have to use spacing materials on an oddly shaped tank without beveled glass. In this case the "spacers" were a thick silicone bead.

Steve, I imagine the "front" and "back" of the tank overlap both sides and the bottom? If you are constructing the tank solo, you might need to use the same method previously linked but substitute the front or the back as the main component. It would be nice if Glass Cages would advise if they lay the tank on it's back during initial construction. Maybe Glass Cages will even let you borrow a pair of suction cups to ease assembly: http://glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=57 Best of luck. Scott

fwiw: I have used Dow 795 and 999a in the past: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/sea...MATL&bhcp=1 Purchased by calking tube and case at Kenseal: CHANTILLY KENSEAL CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS CORP TEL: +1 703 263 0730 3933 AVION PARK COURT NORTH CHANTILLY VIRGINIA 20151 map e-mail website: http://www.kenseal.com/custom.cfm?name=usD...y=Northern%20VA

Sad news bud :( If you are going to reseal the whole thing, go directly to a source of adhesives. Do not use silicone that may have been on a shelf for an extended period of time. Freshness maters. My strategy would change depending on exactly where the leak is located and how the offending panel is located in the construction. If it is a panel set on top of the other three, I would consider removing only that panel set the cushion bead and reset the panel. If you are rebuilding from scratch, consider some quality 90 degree angle clamps to assist with tweaking. A bag of tile spacers might be handy while putting the cushion beads in place depending on whether you have a method of raising and lowering the panels. Best of luck in the procedure.

Marine Ich: http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/marineich.html Hypo procedure: http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/hyposalinity.html

Most frozen mysis sources are freshwater and fresh water "ich" does not survive in saltwater. Carry Gamma foods Lancefish?

In my opinion, yes. Full disclosure: I over feed my fish greatly. A single pair of my clowns will get that much twice a day. Classics: spearer mantis shrimp, some snails, some crabs, large serpent stars... Many folks miss disease diagnosis as well, unless they have seen the symptoms before, tough to explain such without photos unfortunately. Best of luck.

From the single picture it appears to be a green BTA, E. quadricolor. I don't recall ever having a healthy fish getting caught in any of mine, and to say I have/had a few BTAs would be an understatement. If you had alot of BTAs, some fish do be come stressed when many divide at once, such an event is quick and quickly passes. It is more likely the fish become ill, have dietary issues, suffer physical injury, or there is another predator in the tank. Best of luck in the hunt and you might want to avoid adding new fish until the culprit is identified or 6 weeks passes without losses.

Make sure you have a proper ID of the anemone prior to making a decision. BTAs are not efficient fish eaters, although they do survive manual division. There are a few long tentacled fish eating anemones, but they are not common in our tanks. Post a picture. Most likely you are dealing with fish that are weakened and fallen prey to one of many potential predators or opportunistic feeders.

Congrats! Looks like you are having lots of fun fwiw: schedule a time for the otohime pick up

If the pump is powerful enough, as Jon posted, the input side head is enougth to cause a condition where the impeller actually cavitates creating micro bubbles. This can occur in cases of small intake line diameter, long intake lines, intake lines requiring the pump to over come gravity. Output lines can, but rarely in our applications contribute to cavitation, but they can produce the venturi effect. In general: Always oversize the pump intake line, regardless of the intake fitting. Definitely make sure the intake line is larger then the output. At some point, most of our applications don't care once we hit 2" diameter pipe. fwiw: http://www.reeflopumps.com/images/tips.pdf

Sounds like an Isopod. They can be quite nasty. Technical info for ID: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-05/rs/index.php Current events: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...50#post13229850 One to motivate if they are isopods: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/bp/index.php Best of luck and I hope it is not an Isopod.

While I admit, the folks have not done a great job referring back to the source in that version....top of page 1: The Anemone FAQ (For tropical, clown-hosting anemones) by Greg Peterson (BonsaiNut) with help from Marina Peters (MarinaP) and everyone on Reef Central! fwiw: The document has been updated before, so you might want to keep the link handy and check it once in a blue moon. I am not sure when the next update might occur, but there has been quite a few recent events in relation to Mertensii and Magnifica data. Cheers.

Why not post the link to the source of the FAQ? Quite a few RC folks put time and effort into that document. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=1381958

Had one in my 60gal, only saw it twice over a period of 6+months. I could not believe it was still in there at least 6 months later.

Hmm, if you dont see any tiny snails(pyramids) attacking your astreas then you may have one of these around: http://www.reefaquariumforum.com/show-me-w...like-t2534.html Flatworms, the big ones can wipe out a clam overnight and leave a jelly mess.

I have been chasing S strain for awhile, I have only been able to track down sources that have cysts.

ORA breeds hybrid gobies: http://www.orafarm.com/gobies.html

Clowns are defitely high on the "my fish bite me list". Best biter I have had to date was a maroon, but the most insanely aggressive specimen has been my female A. nigripes. She earned the name Cujo very quickly.

Tanks are offered with sizes based on overall exterior displacement of the tank and tend to be rounded up. Hence, exterior dimensions: L"xW"xH" / 231 = gallons, then rounded up will never actually hold the "advertised" amount of fluid. Especially since tanks are rarely if ever filled to the rim. All in ones suffer even more, they have compartments designed to run at lower then water level inorder to direct flow in a single direction. fwiw: I have a 70gal room divider AIO, it holds <55gals of actual water. Less then that with rock, sand, etc. Exterior dimensions calculate very close to 70gal.

Be better swapping the specimen and adding the "white" one to your collection. I suspect it will begin coloring up by Christmas.

My plan was to draw from a large tentacle base with the need penetrating the length of the tentacle itself. Deposit in reverse fashion in the target anemone. fwiw: they seem fairly leaky in general, not sure it is necessary in the proper environment.