traveller7

Wife and kids are doing well, "Dad" is way too busy(for the right reasons.) No complaints, but my fish are begging for some attention. And Tony, you definitely need a BTA in that tank ;>)

Pictures have always been problematic over the upgrades, even when hosted on RC, dont even get me started on how many times I have edited old threads repair the "red" X's. "Way back" pictures were not linked/stored the same, and even worse, you might remember that old RC threads were deleted to save space, hence the "tag for archive" option to save the good stuff. Thankfully, all the good embarrassing stuff is still buried behind lock and key only to be pulled out to remind folks exactly what they posted after some rant, binge, etc. ;>) Oldest in public I have seen with semi functional links is here...check out the staff back then, who is that ctenowhatsitfella?! http://web.archive.org/web/20001026153823/...m/bio/staff.htm Early sponsor, avatar, server, news, etc.: http://web.archive.org/web/20001026233319/...om/sitenews.htm fwiw: Pretty sure it was Horge that did the editing of Larry M's 125 breakage pick, file name(megavac) if that helps...but I have not found any active links left online :(

Dug up an old link that should serve you well: http://www.seahorses.com/AquariumAndFi*@...nes/1AQ_MAG.HTM Jim and Shirley had a few specific issues I was looking for awhile back, the issues arrived in top shape. Cheers.

I have definitely have some Aquarium Frontiers from 96-97 timeframe(rare clown data in them ;>) ), prob have some others in 00-03.

Been a long time my friend. I hope all is well with you. Neat new project

None taken :>) Lucky for me, I was offline most of the last couple of months and even missed the whole event I suppose I did my time with the Hurricane Charlie outage ;>) As an ancient RC user, you dont happen to have a copy of LarryM pushing the RC Shopvac? Nobody can find the dang thing anymore! Threads are still out there, but pictures have always been a problem on the old bboard software at RC has been using. Be interesting to watch the 10 year mark roll past, hopefully on the new version of code and with many of the features we have been working toward for the last few years. Cheers.

I have not kept a Zebra since the 80's, but that one preferred to eat in dim light without alot of activity around the tank. It was fairly shy but would eat clam, crayfish, fresh shrimp(shells and all), silversides, and most other seafood eventually. It also would take a break for a week or two for reasons I can not explain.

What kind of eel? Over the years, some of mine have taken weeks off from eating. One particular Melatremus I have now will disappear for 3-4 weeks at a time, then show up, eat a few lancefish....disappear again for a few weeks, rinse and repeat. fwiw: lower temps and higher specific gravity have contributed to reduced feedings with mine.

Figure I'll provoke a discussion over there, but the photo is terrible without knowing about flash use, multiple angles, point of collection, etc.

See what I mean http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...80#post14797680

I would refine your intended concept of "best" before tailoring the answers :>) Best means lots of things to lots of different people, hence, you won't really know what your results indicate

[quote name='Mich

Physically, yes. Coloration is not always a high percentage guide between available A. percula and A. ocellaris. Only at the extremes does it add value. Ocellaris is more commonly imported in an orange coloration with limited dark banding, wholesale, shipping costs more then the fish itself. Percula out of PNG and SI tend to to be orange and have increased black coloration, even toward levels folks call "onyx". These guys are frequently called "true" perculas. You can find ocellaris with lots of black, Darwin Australian origin, and you can find percula with little black throughout their range. Compare an similar color pattern percula and ocellaris and 99% of the folks wont have a clue. Then spine counting, eye rings, size, etc., come into play when making an ID.

[quote name='Mich

I am not aware of any confirmed Oman's in the US. There are rumors of some collected from nearby waters outside the control of the Sultan. I have not seen these rumored specimens available to the US either. History of illegally collected and early captive bred MCC's would seem to indicate you'll have to go to Tokyo to buy the "Unobtainium" level specimens.

I did have a few maroon pairs over the year and two of them are in the hands of locals somewhere, my only disappointment with them is the tendency for them to lose the stripes as they age over the years. If the females kept those beautiful stripes, they would be 10

Owned species in most, if not all clown complexes over the years, tough question. My favorites fall into the difficult to obtain range though, A. nigripes and A. chrysogaster. Nigripes is a durable "small" species once fully conditioned. It is available in a bright orange variant which tends to lose its shy nature as it matures. Nigripes is quite aggressive so it will hold its own defending its anemone and tank space. Yes, these little guys draw blood as well. Unfortunately, they tend to be horrible shippers :( Don't think any of the skunks are personality replacements for Nigripes. Chrysogaster is in the Clarkii complex, get quite large, but tend to be fairly mellow. Never had any of mine become aggressive with other fish outside of other clowns. They have wiped out many decorative shrimp though ;>) They also call all sorts of anemones home, spend time watching you watching them, very nice overall. Allardi would be my more commonly available alternative to Gasters.

Just make sure you track the progress, changes, and a few of the recommendations made in the thread. There are a few I would make based on past projects.

A properly constructed tank and stand will easily last the 10years. With that in mind, 1yr, 2yr, is fine by me, but I prefer solid construction over the minimums/standard. fwiw: my vote went into thicker + 10yr.

I tend to add more then one tile in the area at a slight angle. One where they tend to lay eggs and one on the other side of the anemone. Many clowns will skip at least a cycle when you "mess" with the area. IME Black ocellaris are more prone to such interruptions. Temperature has a significant impact on time to hatch. If you are going to move tiles, before day 5 would be my initial target. Tupperware or bucket with a bait bucket style aerator for the drive will be fine if you are just tile swapping. Host anemones touching eggs will not be a problem.

Not to mention, Randy averages over 23 answers/posts per day on Reef Cental alone! His contributions to the hobby over the years are incalculable.

Randy is an amazing reef chemist, the archives contain a wealth of his easy to understand descriptions: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/show...threadid=102605 Cheers.

btw: 70w DE bulb is 12cm, 150wt is 13.5cm if I remember correctly.

70w to 150w requires a new or an adjustable socket. Some reflectors, i.e. PFO mini compacts have additional holes in the reflectors to allow both the 70w or 150w to be used by removing and repositioning 4 screws. I have no experience with the vipers.

Congrats on both accounts