traveller7

Are you sure, it will look nice next to mine

yikes...I guess that frag will be with me longer then we planned O.o :D

It depends on the species. Purple Tip could be a common name for at least 3 common species. At this stage, if it is semi healthy, it should move on it's own. Has it eaten any brine/mysis/etc? Since it is on rock, I'll wager a guess it is an Atlantic Condylactis species. Purple tips, whitish long tentacles, orange reddish column? If so, it may need some time to adjust to the lighting, does it open at night? They tend to be fairly hardy, but they are harshly shipped. If it is a white tentacled specimen, yellowish white column, short tentacles, it could be a very upset H. crispa. Best bet, post a picture Good luck.

With some species of hermits, anemone decorative fare is quite intentional: link to image: http://www.reefimages.com/cgi-reefimages/p...mp;slide=42.jpg link to a write up: http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cl...;articleid=2106 link to a better write up: http://adc.aims.gov.au/nwhicreefs/cruise/c...ture/index.html and for a target anemone species http://www.whitney.ufl.edu/species/tri-colo.htm

Extremely high probability it is a shrimp, picture is not quite clear enough to conclusively say mantis vs. a few others. For now, treat it as such, grow it out and keep snapping the pictures EDIT: played with the picture a bit, do you have an uncompressed version which allows you to zoom in and see: Eyes, whether the front appendages are folded, etc.? Eyes, and appendages immediately ID or discard mantis. While I cant find the eyes, the appendages in vertical alignment almost guarantee a mantis in my experience.

IME: They certainly make it tougher to remove detritus which settles out.

Best of luck to all of you with finals

Supposedly, that is the EDTA or lack of EDTA effect. Most salts have it, some don't. Crystal Sea Marine Mix is one that supposedly does not have EDTAs, use caution when switching over.

That sounds very mantis like..... Dawn and dusk with little to no activity(vibrations, movements) are best for eyeballing for the little guy. Not to mention a little dose of thawed mysis in front of it's hole. Almost all the mantis species that hitch hike successfully are diurnal, instead of nocturnal.

A spearer is not likely to be working over the snails or hermits at the size described. Small smasher mantis can break snail shells, but there is typically plenty of other fare in a reef tank. When they get just shy of 2" they can wipe out the cleaner crew pretty quickly O.o It is not unusual for them to have more then one places to park in a tank throughout the day, hopefully you snagged it while it was in it's main lair. Lots of good information in the RC Mantis Forum and of course Lurkers: http://www.blueboard.com/mantis/ Either way, good luck

It is a rare time I don't have one somewhere...I find them quite interesting. Have had one specimen for about 5 years now. Pretty green little female that lives with a sea horse. If you know he is in the rock, move it to isolation. Sump should be fine. Quite a few folks like them and will provide them a home in a nano. How old is the rock, source of rock, and have you been able to guage its size?

13w seems to have a greater selection of color temps and specialty colors but use the same sockets. Typically in the same price neighborhood.

Move the whole rock to which the anemone is attached.

My experience, leans far more toward Dave's and Inna's: Clowns hosting in a single anemone is net negative impact, for as many that are good feeders, there are more specimens that are quite abusive, bite off tentacles, and steal food from the anemones. After an anemone reaches 3x the size of the clown, the combination has a much greater chance of success, because the anemone has greater reserves to tolerate abuse; not because the clowns are better for them. If you have a stressed anemone, clowns all too often "love" it to death. One clown benefit, some clowns keep predators away from the anemone, i.e. shrimp, fish, etc. Unfortunately, when you have a clown locking down it's territory, you have new trouble

Definitely try something fish based, cut silversides or lancefish. If it is stressed out, no larger then 1cmX1cm pieces. As Dave said, they may have trouble eating while in decline. You may need to hold the food against the oral disk (by the mouth) for a few minutes and look for signs of its mouth opening and turning slightly inside out as an eating signal. Once the anemone wraps around the meal it should be good to go....again this process may take a few minutes in stressed specimens. Shrinking tentacles are typically the result of a few things: starvation, predation, or water quality. Smaller and bleached specimens really need to be target fed, larger BTA may catch food added to the tank, have enough symbiotic algae to sustain them selves. If you look at the TOTM page, the large specimens in my tank do not get target fed, the small 3"ers do. Predation is typically caused by a clown, shrimp, cowries, Eunice worms, and butterflies. Have any? Are some tentacles still long, some short? On the water quality side, these little bags of water do not like being near the kalk/Calcium dosing points, do not appreciate pH or SG swings, and IMHO appreciate a bit of Nitrates in the water. Bottom line: If it is stressed out and the key point can't be immediately identified, it would likely be best to put it in a fuge environment, feed it small fish based meals frequently, and provide mild lighting. Good luck.

If only that were true. There have been nightmares shipped by more then one major and respected brand name. Nightmares, means fire hazard, shock hazard, hardware failures, etc. IMHO, if you are going to buy a high powered lighting system, make sure it has been in the market for at least 1yr and then search RC, Reefs, Reef Frontiers, Reefland, etc., to cover the broadest user community for issues. Thankfully, bad news seems to travel fast. Good luck.

Time to market is a serious consideration for any business. IMHO focus on one that covers the most product line and tuning around it is a good plan. Cost/Margin impact is a bummer, but the return from faster product development needs to be in the equation. Cheers :>)

Lancefish and whatever mysis they can catch. Some of the less reef friendly parameters: measureable nitrates always available, moderate flow, well adapted to metal halide lighting, and gentle clowns.

Some softies excrete protective chemicals, BTAs may sting anything that has the right make up to discharge a nematocyst. 4" from a BTA? Mine would grow to fill that space in approx 60 days. Not to mention, as lighting degrades, BTAs tend to extend greater distances. A softball sized BTA can easily extend a column 6-8" from a rocky cave.

I discount the results from the lab based on the apparent impact of the described treatment. The possibility remains open, that brook and another killer were involved, the weak died, the tolerant fish remain. It would be a risk to rule out the diagnosis completely even though the treatments performed are documented as less then effective against brook. IMHO, perform a known effective brook treatment prior to returning fish to the display tank. Lets grab a cup of coffee and talk about treating discuss, altums, reptiles, etc., with chocolately flavored erliworm dog wormer a few days back O.o I hear that loud and clear. I am a fan of Malachite use in freshwater. As time goes on, we are going to lose a few more tools in the tool box :( While I really don't want to bring sick fish into my house, I am going to run the hydrogen peroxide gamut against the next bout of water borne bugs. Figure I better get it down to science before we lose all the tools.

I am not discounting malachite green, Noga, Levy, etc., are discounting malachite green as an effective treatment for Brook. My experience simply supports their conclusions.

That is a different target Chip If we accept Brook as at least 1 confirmed bug, there has been no treatment performed to outright kill it. I have had fish recover, build "immunity/tolerance", and had Brook apparently cycle itself from small populations; but it is a known risk of returning as soon as new fish are added to the existing population. If we do not accept the Brook diagnosis, skip formalin. I can't think of any reason to have Formalin in my house other then Brook. The larger question you bring up, if we have fish in QT, suspect residual bacterial/fungal agents, would malachite green be the first choice? IMHO, no. There are more fish friendly and broad spectrum treatments available for such maladies.

If brook remains, and I am not convinced it does, malachite green and hypo are ineffective.

Brook linkies I gots, good advice, well....linkies I gots

I sure hope you remembered the 12 jars of GenX under the 300 I am not going to need for awhile