traveller7

Not any longer, only the Nigripes left in the 288. The B&W ocellaris and Chyrsogasters are in dedicated tanks. 288 comes down this weekend.

If you are referring to mine, every pair of clowns that has gone through the 288 has laid eggs ;>) The list above are only the pairs which were aggressive with other pairs in the tank. The perculas and black ocellaris were stay at home parents and did not wander far from the breeding location. Most of my pairs have found their way to WAMAS members or full time breeders. Currently down to 3 prs. Exception: the Chryopterus was a single which I was trying to pair with an orange skunk, never bonded well.

If you are interested in long term harmony, stick with one pair of clowns per tank. My 288gal(bowfront 88"Lx28"Wx32"D) has not been enough space for more then one pair of Chrysopterus, Clarkii, Maroons, Nigripes, or Skunks. Fine for a few weeks, months, or even a year leads to a beat up pair at some point. Feel free to experiment, but be prepared to remove fish at the most inconvenient time :>)

This time add in a 4wt night light or LED to indicate pump(or other device condition) visually :>)

Yes. Temporary housing without an established filter is quite a balancing act. Not one I would recommend.

Stichodactyla is is a group of anemones which include the mini/maxi's. One of the most documented captive fish eaters is Stichodactyla haddoni. Although a hosting anemone, they have also been known to eat clownfish. Lost a few naso type tangs and small angels to a Haddoni carpet myself. fwiw: I have had maxi's for many years, have yet to: lose a fish, have one divide naturally, or grow beyond 7". I would not put a fish catch out of the realm of possibility.

Going to need a bit more data to assist if you are not working on a return of the goods. Model numbers, pictures, etc., would be a great start. Good luck.

fwiw: I have yet to see machine polished edges on GlassCages tank, possibly contributing to so many posted quality issues.

Not likely. If water conditions were to go completely trash possibly, but I have not had mine escape from a tank. I have had them climb out of netbreeders that were at the water surface.

Think of brook like little bugs feeding only on fish, remove the fish and the bugs will eventually starve. Some fish will build immunity to the bugs over time, hence the reason a tank of 20 fish will have some survive only to have new additions quickly get sick. I believe your suggestion is the best option for a display tank in a area difficult to support AT/Hospital tanks, etc.

Yes. 6 weeks tends to be enough. The alternative is to let the strong survive, if any, and avoid adding new fish for quite some time. Thinking 4-6 months if the strong survive path is followed, even though not a recommended strategy.

Yes. Yes. If you have seen posts, My other fish are fine but, "why can't I keep clowns?" and "my clowns keep dying!"; it is an example of what you describe above. In my opinion, either treat, let the strong survive, leave the tank fishless for 6ish weeks, etc; but assume there are some really nasty little bugs swimming around in that tank.

Brooklynella, aka Brook, is the bane of clownfish keepers :( http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j...ooklynella.html Some fish will weather it seemingly building up an immunity(1-20% of fish maybe so don't plan on it), most will check out very quickly(days or less). It is an obligate fish parasite, corals and inverts have nothing to fear from Brook. Lowered salinity will not kill the parasite. Copper does not appear effective without killing the patient. IME formalin is effective, but very tricky.

Clowns? They are extremely susceptible to brook, even if other fish show no signs. Link to some comparion photos: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...681#post7581681 fwiw: some of mine have exhibited trailing strings from the fins, which are not shown in the above pictures.

Such a film appears with Brook and some bacterial diseases.

288gals is not enough for my little Nigripes pair and little Ocellaris pair. 1pr of clowns per tank is a much better rule to live by.....Some of my pairs have been fine for months or even a year before deciding to wipe out all interlopers. I know they are cute and you will always hear tales of "success" but far too often you wake up to disaster.

I'd cut back on the lighting a bit, make sure the pH stays above 8.3(dosing kalk?), make sure the flow stays high, and treat it like a new cycle. Sad to hear the news. fwiw: It will take more then a disaster to take out that BTA once it has settled in

Pretty sure DT's changed the formula awhile back and it is not a great starter culture anymore... I have used disks, pastes, etc from aquaculture supply joints.

I have used acrylic sheet in most instances, but have put rock on glass as well.

1. Double ended is a bulb format relating to the socket type(70wt, 150wt, 250wt, and 400wt all use a diff socket lengths). HQI is a legacy designation more indicative of a ballast type, specifically impacting "start up" requirements. Most if not all hobby DE bulbs require a "HQI" type of starter circuit(HXPF etc) or the use of an electronic MH ballast. 2. Single ended typically allow a single reflector to be used for 175/250/400 mogul based bulbs, unfortunately such flexibility comes at the cost of reflector optimization. Mogul bulb+Ballast+reflector combinations tend to be cheaper then DE, but the bulbs themselves tend to be a wash in cost. DE ballasts tend to be more expensive, but a moot value if you are using electronic ballasts. IMHO mogul is more flexible to reconfiguration but DE tends to be more efficient in PAR to coral. Hit the stickies in the Lighting forum on RC for more information then you would ever want to know O.o Choose your poison

Measurements of pH and ammonia?

Big issue for me Bob, as a Mod on RC, my PM inbox can't fill up and my PMs always go through, even if the receiver

No kidding, post a BTA, some gear, and blammo....PM box is full :( Should be some space for a few hours :D

Yes, the tank depicted is one of my old ones. Anemone is S. haddoni. In small spaces, the colony effect tends to break down within a year or so....although you could likely pull it off in your 300gal if you are very choosy

Tim, I suspect yours will lose the yellow as they get older. Dave, I suspect the one you posted is an actual A. sebae, melanistic variant.