F&Fmgr

I used/ use them. I had a few problems with the regulator losing pressure. I think in hind sight it was because my pH controller wasn't turning them off..in other words, a really good CO2 check valve will make sure there is not too much back pressure on the unit. Other than that they are worth the money.

LATEX

Oh, i gotcha...ice to eskimos

WT(ef)

i want it

try an tweak your CaCo3 reactor to run a higher dKh that will really help. I have also found, that in a high demand system where a reactor and kalk are being used that adding neomag(which is a pure(er) form of mag carb than dolomite, will be very beneficial Sean PS i am sure, that regardless of your Mag levels, that your Alk levels were low or fluctuating, keep dosing until you re-tune youre reactor.

Hows your mag levels? maybe its lacking from the addition of kalk. Try and bring your mag levels up, b/c with a kalk reactor and calcium reactor your alk should be higher than that at 24/7 operation. Longterm, to keep magnesium levels higher you can add neomag to your calcium reactor

They can come back for sure, leaving the tank empty of fish, if possible, is a very good idea.

I believe they could be Benedenia, but the ones I see are usually larger. About 2000 microns it says in Noga's book, which i think is about 1/16". Is that what youre seeing? it says that most species reproduce by eggs, a few of the type we are seeing( capsalids) lay eggs in gill tissue, the rest lay eggs that settle til the larval stage. The viviparous type of monogeneans are life bearers. I don't know if any capsalids are viviparous. Sean PS if you want to see the book, you can always visit and have a looksee.

are you dosing 2part or 3 part? sometimes maintaining it low allows it to swing a bit low in between dosing. also when do you test before or after your dosing. I like to keep it higher just in case there is an unexpected drop in alk, which will allow the pH to swing.

Low alk? if your test says its fine, then use another test to be sure Sean

I have a a disease book by Edward Noga, scoured it a couldn't find em. I have only been seeing these things come in on fish w/i the last 2 years so i don't know how much lit is out there on them.

If it is what I call a flatworm, i wonder how they reproduce?

Ive been told by alot of Fish suppliers that fish coming out of indo-pacific can have a type of flatworm on them. I've seen them before... a FW dip explodes their cells, prazi also works. They almost look like scales that fell off, right? under a scope they look like argulus(fish lice). Freshwater dipping works great on these lil buggers, I usuaklly dip the fish for 45sec- 1 min. They are releatively harmless unless a secondary infection sets in.

YOU KNOW WHERE THE SCRAPER IS TOO! The main reason is that overdriving the actinics shortens the T5's lifespan, just looking to be more economical in the long run.

thanks I was actually considering >80 degrees. the lights are about 14" above the tanks and the corals are only 8" max deeper than that. Sean

So I'm hoping some of the people who know alot about these lamps will chime in. My SPS tray is 8' x 3' x 16". I have 4 400 watt MHs spread evenly across the tank. In between each halide I have 4x24" VHO T5 on icecap 660s. Looks like this: ----MH--T5--MH--T5--MH--T5--MH--- hope you get the idea. anyways I'm trying to replace the T5s with leds, but b/c im only looking for actinic supplementation i cant figure out which way to go. I know i want a decent amount of spread and enough power to make an impact even while the halides are on. Any suggestions? TIA Sean

stay at full dosage if the dose was tolerated

looks like turf algae, not bryopsis. Definately dinos too. When i did the H2O2 dosing it wiped out the dinos and turf( red and green)... just be thankful that its not bryopsis as I am dealing with it now and its a PITA. Sam, try the peroxide at half the dose for 3-5 days to see if it makes a diffference. I bet it will

so my kimmer pump failed and I couldn't get a new one so I am upping the ante... I have only bryopsis now, yesterday and today I dosed 200 ml in a ~400 gallon system, no ill effects yet except for the initial closing of the zoas, but all is happy and well...even the sun corals and neptheas seem fine... I will take pics this time I dont know how this will factor in but i have set up a NPX reactor as well. Sean

thats sweet i want one

Nice pictures MIke

get a room

The BRS stuff tends to take longer to fluidize and the Brightwell media...don't know of any difference other than that. Took me about 4-5 weeks, then I noticed what the biopellets were doing. +1 on low nutrients and alkalinity. I wouldn't use biopellets with ozone and/or UV on a small system(<250 gallons). Once the biopellets cycle through the po4 and no3 you should(this is based on my use and my experience with LNS) supplement with reef booster, zoecon, selcon, anything that will quickly turn into food for the bacteria w/o leaving alot of DOC in the water. When you get to this stage(where i am at right now), you should be able to maintain a higher alk and still maintain excellent polyps extension(b/c of the bacterioplankton now in your water column) and growth at the same time.

It should be, as long as there isn't alot of head pressure...i use an mj1200 and have it dialed down to a trickle, just enough to spin