F&Fmgr

I have the TLF KW300 and its been working well on a 180...don't know how the JBJ sensor works(air or magnet?) this might make a difference b/c if there is too much to top off from on to off, then there is a high risk of OD. just get a ball valve to regulate the flow into the reactor. the "spinner" doesn't need much pressure to spin and fluidize the kalk. hope that helps Sean

Move to Ashburn, VA and buy everything here!! just a couple things 1. id think about removing the bioballs, can cause more problems than good 2. get ro/di 3. get refractometer 4. drip acclimate your fish and inverts(corals should be fine since healthy params don't very too much) 5. Cut out the stress zyme junk, even good bacteria supps. can bloom and suck out the oxygen... 6. until you see steady trends, or find that routine dosing will suffice, in your alkalinity/dkH test it at lest 2x a week.

didnt see the post about tapwater, can you get a chlorine test kit? Also maybe other chemicals like chloramine?

alk, temp, and salinity are quickest killers also check for nitrite as that can poison the fish by depriving it of O2. Also, out of curiousity what is your acclimation procedure, i know you said proper...but what do you do and for how long?

the little white spec @ 6oclock on the eye could possibly be an ectoparasite, prazi should be fine for that. If that spec is nothing than erythromycin or amoxy would solve it.

no TOm, i don't think personal stuff should ever slow down production, I mean really, I have to WAIT for an ozone reactor b/c Justin and Dan have a LIFE... shame on them, I dont have a life. PS this was an attempt at humor

Sam, If you want to organize a group buy for some quality sand LMK Sean

worldwide imports The #0 is fine grain, its what I have in my coral flats. Here is the web link 1 2 The aragonite #0 is also fine grain and an nice DSB sand...the crushed coral is cheaper I believe and also it comes in 40lb bags where the aragonite does not.

WWI crushed coral sand #1 40# bags gor for less than $25

No i couldn't get any good ones Sean

Nice LTA

Done with the weeklong treatment and i have none off the algae that I had when I started!! Also all the corals are thriving and all levels are normal. Added a few inverts to prevent grow back Sean

well for me, I have tried leaving the lights off for 3-5 days twice on this one out break with no success...plus how long can a store continue to have its lights off? not many people buy corals in the dark!!

Hasn't wiped out 100% of the algae yet, im still on day 6, but every day is an improvement. Ive been feeding tthe same, skimming the same, and i even doubled the dose yesterday and today...no ill effects, other than rapidly clearing the water up... light cycle has stayed the same 11-8

I get kilos of prazi at a time, the powder form should be sequestered with grain vodka as its not water soluble...the stuff from the vet is already sequestered so is prazipro. id offer to order some if anyone would like some, but it would be kinda shady measuring grams of a white powder in my store

yeah, just submerge the macro your growing(just a piece of it) in a gallon with .2mL peroxide, then leave it overnight. Want to be more thorough, dose the gallon every day with the same amount/or more of peroxide. i mean you triple or quadruple or even ten fold the dose on the sample macro just to see how it reacts.

dilute .2mL 3% peroxide in a gallon of seawater and drop some chaeto in it overnight

I wouldn't know...but i'd guess no. Just because I can't see that lil amount of peroxide kkilling macros. if the peroxide has similiar properties to ozone.... then it might benefit the macro?? I read some literature years ago that said O3 use allowed macroalgae tto grow better....don't know how accurate that is tho.

Tom, Ive used it on my fish systems just for water clarity with much higher doses. the general trend i saw with ORP was that it lowered and then came back up. I do have a milwaukee ORP controller, not sure how accurate it is as its been out of service for a couple months... i will check the nitrates now, when the treatment is done, and maybe a week or two after. Thanks for the input! Sean

So i came in this morning and my LPS/softy system which had the bryopsis and dinos in it, is 90% free of the pest algaes... I will keep an eye to see if the lights regenerate any of the algae. The SPS system has NO dinos(started with only a lil bit) but the diatoms are still there. All corals look great, some of the zoas are closed up but I cant tell if its coincidence(ie hermit crawling over them) or not, but I'm going to do another dose this morning. Happy reefing, Sean

ok so i dosed 40 mL in a 450 gallon system with lps/softies @ 3-4p today, and now the bryopsis and some of the dinos are fading in color, some is floating off into the socks, and the skimmer is a bit more reactive... i guess thats because of the extra oxygen molecule being so ready to oxidize? In a 300 gallon sps with some diatom growth, and a hint of dinos I dosed 30mL, no noticed effect yet... From what that guy was saying in that link, it really started working day 2 & 3, so we'll see

Both. you can find dosages out there for the dips... don't know the dosage for dips, but i've heard it fizzles the algae off

So today, I started dosing 1mL per 10 gallons. we will see how it goes. particularly Dino's and Bryopsis. I will post before pics and then after pics when the treatment is done. Here is a link that a friend referred me to LMK if you guys have any experience with it Sean