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so apparently i forgot about 24 hour time in the off statement… 1pm is 13:00. oops Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Recently had my second AFS auto feeder die and refused to buy another, so decided to get the Avast Plank feeder this time. Aside from being massive, it seems like a much better solution to feed a precise amount, and it is silent! (unlike the AFS) Now to the problem… the plank is just on/off, and to get a timer down to seconds with apex you must use the OSC command. But my comprehension of OSC command sucks. I intended to have it feed 1 time at noon for 10 seconds. Since it is silent, I did not notice for several days that it was feeding at additional times. So perhaps the neptune AFS obnoxious noise is actually a beneficial feature lol. My nutrients under normal circumstances are on the high side at about .2 Po4 20 nitrate… now i’m up to .35 Po4 30 nitrate. Here’s the command I used, anybody know the proper command to turn on for 10 seconds at noon? Do I need a “Set Off” statement? Fallback OFF OSC 000:00/000:10/059:50 Then ON If Time 01:00 to 11:59 Then OFF

The nem incident and reduced lighting almost certainly brought demand wayyy down. I think the answer is as simple as that. Just monitor and correct… but don’t over correct! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

oof that sucks, so sorry:( But nems are pretty resilient, so it might be ok. You may want to turkey baste all around the tank to make sure you get any remaining pieces. Hopefully all will be well.

yep that’s the colony it came from. how’s your frag looking?

I got the new version of the Orphek orange filter, which are larger and fit over the lenses well. The photos are with the orange filter but no other post correction. I still need to play with the phone more to see how raw mode works.

Just got my new iphone 13 pro max, so of course I have to test out the camera…

Around the 1 year mark I had horrible algae and dino. The key to beating it was increasing biodiversity of bacteria/microfauna. I used microbacter7 and MB clean, added pods, micro brittle stars, dosed phyto, and maintained sufficient nutrients to support the beneficial competitors

My canopy is framed with 1.5x1.5” (i think they are “furring strip boards”), 1/2” plywood panels, and moulding and trim work. The inside is painted with white appliance epoxy, and the outside is black satin enamel. The front lifts up with the support of a gas strut. I’m certainly not a carpenter… but I’m very happy with how it turned out.

Thanks! I’ve been debating doing a major overhaul

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The tank just turned 4 years old… so not exactly a “build” thread. But I’ll document and share the past, present, and future of the tank. Here’s a rundown of the current setup/equipment… The tank is an SCA 120 gallon 48x24x24”, on SCA solid wood stand, with SCA sump. After about 2 years I replaced the stock canopy with a diy canopy, to allow better light mounting height. Lighting: 48” Reefbreeders photon v2 4 bulb T5 retrofit (3 blue+ 1 coral+) Orphek blue plus led bar Flow: 2 Neptune Wavs 1 Icecap gyre 4k 1 Tunze 6095 Return Pump: Eheim 1262 Skimmer: Reef Octopus classic 150int (upgraded with varios dc pump) recirculating co2 scrubber Other equipment: Clarisea 5k tunze osmolator topoff BRS 1.1ml dosing pumps Apex Trident Dos AFS Breakout box Dosing: BRS 2 part, with Tropic Marin trace and partC Salt: Fritz blue box

Try frozen PE mysis. I also recently got a longnose from reefescape. He was super picky at first and wouldn’t eat other frozen foods, but loved plain old mysis. Super healthy and eats everything now!

saltwateraquarium.com recently started selling clean up crew. In-house fishless systems. I haven’t ordered anything yet, but seems like a good option. And looks like they have captive bred peppermint shrimp in stock. https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/peppermint-shrimp-small-tank-raised-lysmata-boggessi-ora/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i’ve had my icecap 4k for about a year, super quiet and pushes a ton of water. The setup in the app isn’t the most intuitive, but works fine. I also went with icecap because it has 0-10v control for apex included in the controller… and it’s cheaper

I actually think this is great news. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lots of great advice already given above. I also had some spring time sps issues. I lost a nice pink lemonade colony and my strawberry shortcake lost a lot of color (thankfully starting to look better now). Everything else seemed fine. My ph range drops about .1-.15 when a/c starts running, and i strongly believe that is enough to be the tipping point for anything that may already be stressed. I did icp, but didn’t show anything concerning. My suspects on what my other stressors may have been… 1)Flow. my pumps were definitely overdue for cleaning, and noticed detritus settling within some colonies. Cleaned pumps, and more frequent turkey basting of colonies. 2)Bacterial imbalance. Probably secondary issue to the settling detritus issue, but perhaps there is some funkyness that happens in spring that drives bacteria (pollen in the air?). Bacterial issues can snowball quickly. I started dosing microbacter7 and dr tim’s eco balance. 3)Stray voltage. I found a koralia in the sump for dosing lines was leaking voltage pretty significantly. I never got shocked though. I don’t know if i can blame it as a primary cause of issues, but it can’t be good. Replaced with a tunze. 4)Low calcium. I normally run calcium on the lower end at around 400, and it had dropped to 380ish. Probably not a major contributor, but it was noted and corrected. 5)Contaminated source water. In the spring Fairfax Water flushes the mains and switches from combined chlorine to free chlorine. My water out of the tap smelled like a swimming pool. I run dual carbon blocks for chloramines and dual di, but perhaps carbon blocks exhausted faster with the high chlorine and something was getting through. Changed carbon blocks and di. But if this was the primary cause i would think more corals to have been effected, so idk. 6)Salinity. I dose a ton of 2 part, so salinity rises a bit between water changes. I primarily correct it with weekly water changes of slightly lower salinity. It’s not a very significant swing, but something i’m aware of. My advice… increase water changes and dose bacteria like microbacter7 or eco balance to get things under control. Check flow and all equipment is functioning properly.

what’s your typical ph range? Don’t think i’ve seen it mentioned yet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

my clown goby managed to jump out of that hole RIP:( you can turn the lid around so the hole is over the rear chamber, just slightly annoying for feeding Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk