newbie2014

It shows how much you care about your fish. Shrimps and squids are as far as I go. No clams. I just can't accept that my fish are eating better than I am.

Wow, and I thought I was overfeeding my fish.............I have five small-medium sized fish, and I feed them one cube of PE mysis or a chunk of Reef Frenzy a day. I rarely feed pellets and never flakes. Very healthy lunch for (obviously) very healthy fish.

According to BRS, if the membranes are hooked up in series, expect to the same amount of waste but double RODI product. However, the membranes may need to be replaced more often, if the tap TDS is too high.

I don't have coraline on glass, only calcium deposit. When did a WC a few days ago, I drained 50% of the water. Then I tried to scrub it out with a clean pot-and-pan scrubber dipped in mild vinegar. I was successful only if I scrubbed it really hard . Using the Flipper with blade attached, I can see sheets of the white deposits coming off with one pass. But it sure gave my forearm a workout from just moving it around. It's certainly worth the $40 I spent......just like the Tunze ATO.

I have a 40B, and the regular Flipper magnetic strength is almost too much for it. Coraline algae would stand no chance.............It's a bit easier to move if I use the pad size. I think the nano size only comes with one blade. Not sure if it's plastic or stainless steel.........

+1 I’ve used a magfloat for the past 3-4 years. Recently I got some calcium deposits on the glass, and the magfloat was not up to the job. So I decided to upgrade to the one with a blade. I got the regular size Flipper, and it does a fantastic job of scrapping off the deposits. Maybe I’m just a weakling, but the magnet is strong enough that sometimes I have to use both hands to move it around. They also come in nano size too

Never heard of them before. Now, I really need to find someone local from whom I can buy a culture. I've only been feeding my tank mysis shrimp and occasional pellets. I need to mix things up. As always, thank you for your insights.

I always thought that the meter needed a full 3 minutes for measurement. That's why they tell you to insert the well mixed bottle, before pressing and holding the button to start the timer. I'll double check on my next WC to see if the results are comparable. Thank you for the tips.

Mine is the same way. Per instruction, I insert the well mixed bottle, then press and hold for the 3 minutes countdown to start. Or maybe Tom is saying that we can press and hold for the three minutes count down to start, put the reagent in the bottle and mix for 90-120 seconds, then (before the 3 minutes runs out) insert the bottle and close the lid for the measurement to occur????

Interesting. I didn't know this. I just set my iphone for 3 minutes (for mixing and adding reagent). So you're saying if you press and hold the button after the first measurement (blanking), you'll get a 2:00 minutes countdown? Then, you put the tube (with reagent) back in and push and hold the button again for the 3:00 minutes countdown (incubation period)?

I do that too. Even after lightly tapping on the package, I can still see dusting of reagent/powder attached to the inside of the package. Maybe I can use a tiny stainless steel scrapper to get the last bits out. No big deal.

One thing I noted from the video; for the Hanna alkalinity test, they used a different bottle to "blank" the meter. I thought we're supposed to use the same bottle for better accuracy.

I bit the bullet and got the Hanna Ultra low phosphorous (HI736). I'd like it better if 1. it uses liquid reagent, and 2. the standby time is longer, say +5 minutes before turning itself off. My next step is to get the Hanna for Alkalinity (dkh). I'm using Salifert right now, but don't like the pesky/confusing syringe measurement method. Those are the only things I check besides salinity.

Sadly, but true. Once the lawyers get involved, you have to do things by the book. Real life doesn't matter anymore..................Only a matter of time when a soldier can sue the Army for not providing three square meals a day on the battlefield. Thank you for your service, Paul.

I’m using a 20g brute for my 10g water changes. Any left over can be used next time

+1 Vinegar, tap water rinse X3, RODI rinse X3, then fill with RODI and store.

I dont have a sump, so I can’t offer my experiences.... But theres a guy on reefcentral who uses an empty sump solely to increase water volume and gas exchange. He uses no other mechanical nor chemical filter. He maintains his tanks by doing 10% weekly water changes for for the last 20+ years. Based on that, I’d say even an empty sump ( with a heater of course) can be very useful.

Another important thing; pickup location. Unless I missed it..........

I really love your sense of humor, Paul........best reply so far.

A nitrate of 160 would definitely give most of us a heart attack. Your location and accessibility to the sources lend a hand in making your tank as close to the natural habitat as possible. When I was just a kid living in Southeast Asia, I could breed and raise fighting betta like no one's business without filter, heater or light. Except the container, everything that I needed I got from the pond 300 yds away from my house for free, even the fish. Just the other day I stumbled on a thread created by Timfish on Reefcentral.com. It's about how his reef tank has been skimmerless, filterless, reactor-less, no additives, and no PH/wave makers for the last 20+ years. He keeps his system going with just 7-10% weekly water change. He uses an empty sump to increase the water volume and better gas exchange. I'm gonna try to emulate that with my puny 40+ gallon system, and see if it's doable.

I've always enjoy and appreciate your write ups, Paul. It's refreshing to learn how to keep reef tank the natural way; and to know that this hobby doesn't have to be overly complicated, time consuming, and expensive. Your tank maybe not the best looking one, but I bet it probably has the most healthiest environment of them all. Perhaps, that's what we should thrive for; to have the healthiest tank for the fish, and not necessarily the best looking one for us. Please, keep us informed.

Wonder what kind of light they're using? LED, T5 or combo with what kind of bulbs?

Do you have to cut the spout off to put in tunze ATO pump? I prefer to cap my ATO reservoir.

Nice find. I could use one of them. But are they food graded, and won't leach into the water?