WishNewFish

Anyone used one hook and hanged both wires from one hooks? I know it is better for redundancy just it case one hook gives up, other will be able to hold the light, but any other disadvantages with adjusting etc?

Hi, I got arctic revive T247 (older model) from another reefer which does't have the stand provision, it only comes with the hanging kit. The length of the hanging wires doesn't seem to be long enough to hang from my ceiling, I know a lot of reefers use these lights, how do you hang these lights? Any tips/tricks or specific steps/tools you use?

Without nitrogen cycle (Ammonia, nitrates, nitrites) and dissolved organic matter, the Corals wouldn't thrive. If you don't want to feed fish food, you can buy the nitrogen dosing kits (used by advanced aquarists). If you have any shrimp, crabs or snails (some variety of crabs & snails) can start damaging your corals if they don't find any food. This info is what I have understood based on different articles and research (not my own experience)

thanks for ID. He is saved now

I bought some frags recently from a vendor and I saw something like a small snail on the coral. It has some kind of a soft shell and can widen its shell and has two antennas popping out of it. It doesn't seem like a flat worm or a nudibranch. Anyone encountered something like this? Is it a pest?

My 1 cent advice on QT cycling, I used 1-2 rocks from the DT sump when I start my QT tank. Trying to cycle the QT tank to handle the nitrogen cycle may not work well be cause you add/change too many things in QT once you put fish. You tend to over feed to make sure the fish eats, dose different medicine and dips which all has a huge impact on the nitrogen cycle and nitrifying bacteria. Although I use couple of porous rock from my DT in my QT, I assume that they will only act delay the ammonia/nitrate spikes. I change 50% water every other day (5 gallons) and siphon off uneaten food and wastes 1 hr after feeding. and of course add few drops of prime every night just in case. Unless you see your fish gills red, most likely its not ammonia which killed your fish. especially if you are testing your water and has the ammonia alert badge. (Although the badge hasn't worked so great for me.) Water changes are the best friend in QT , As long as salinity and temperate are close. Also I noticed that you are keeping you salinity at 1.024 , the most common advise in QT is to keep you salinity lower like at 1.019 or even lower depending on type of fish you are QT. As a general rule, fish feel less stressed and have higher oxygen availability etc if salinity is lower.

In my experience, Cardinals are similar to Mandrins, very finicky eaters and I never saw them eating frozen on pellets. When I QT'ed them- they ended up dying. They see food dropping beside them (mysis, pellets, bloodworms). don't even try eating. Even when I created turbulence to trick them to believing its alive- the spit the mysis out. And I feed them heavy and leave the food for 1 hr and do a water change. If you feed them tisbe pods they will be excited and hunt them out quickly. I hear some people say that cardinals eat anything but I never had success training them in QT. I get tired and put them in display and they survive. IMO, Cardinals and Mandarins will die if we QT due to starvation. Same goes to most type of anthias, I don't know how the LFS keep them for weeks without killing them. I bought couple of purple queen anthias, amazing fish to look at but starved themselves in 1 week. On that note if anyone can train my mandarin to eat pellets or sell their pellet eating mandarin I will be grateful.LOL

Also check this disease: Uronema Marinum is a saltwater parasite that can prove fatal for marine fish. The parasites behind the disease are ciliated protozoa that live freely in marine environments. This disease will as most other diseases only infect already weakened fish and the best way to prevent this disease is therefore to keep a clean aquarium with healthy and well fed fish and avoid overcrowding. You should also make sure to keep new fish in a quarantine tank where you nurture them into good health before letting them into your general population. Uronema Marinum usually feeds on bacteria but will attack weak fish as well, eating at its internal organs and muscles. Uronema Marinum is often misdiagnosed as it shares symptoms with a number of other bacterial and parasitical diseases. It is however important to diagnose the disease correctly as it is fatal for many types of marine fish. The symptoms of Uronema Marinum includes rapid breathing, flashing and loss of color (the fish becomes pale) as well as weight loss and dehydration. One less disease to keep track of http://fishmedsonline.com/uronema-marinum/

I am planning to build an aquarium controller which will be internet connected (web interface) - {future expansion into mobile interface and ability to control with SmartHub/Alexa} anything with {} is future capabilities Inputs to the controller - Feed switch - which will keep just the lights on and everything will be turned off Temperature probe Ph probe Multiple float switches in my sump and in my saltwater mixing container. {Leak detector} {Cameras} - to show the tank and sump for remote monitoring. {Salinity probes in sump and in saltwater mixer} - heard these probes are not accurate and require a lot of maintenance Output controls - 2x 8 port power sockets - modified two surge protectors to connect to the controller which should control all my equipment. {control DC motors and other equipment which are controlled by DC power voltage} Small speaker for alarm. {LCD screen} - which I don't plan to use, since I want to control everything from my phone/web interface. Current equipment I run: Return pump ATO pump LED lights Refugium light Skimmer Gyre Heater Saltwater mixer powerhead New saltwater inlet pump Old saltwater outlet pump -> to drain {Auto feeder} {Reactor(s)} {Doser(s)} Any suggestions on additional inputs I'm missing to controller? Any failsafe measures or logic I should implement? The controller is a device which has GPIO ports and lots of other LCD, UART etc capabilities which I wouldn't be using. It runs on linux and has bluetooth/Wifi, webcam, USB interfaces and is powered by USB cable and has a small battery which acts as backup power. Currently I am able to connect float switches, feed switch and control my power ports based on what ever logic I want. Ex: To do a water change, 1. Make sure the float switch in my saltwater container is closed (container is full) 2. Turn off all devices except lights and gyre 3. Turn on Drain pump in my sump till the bottom float switch is triggered to open 4. Shut off drain pump and turn on new saltwater pump in my saltwater container till the bottom float switch in my container is trigger to open and/or top float switch in my sump is closed (meaning sump reach its max safe limit) Note: I am doing a dry run and the above setup in not running on my aquarium yet until I am sure everything is running fine.

Use this website in the future to run down the symptoms you see, if you are not sure what disease it is. http://www.nationalfishpharm.com

Fin rot could be a sign of bacterial infection. I talked to reefescape on their qt treatment and they do hyposalinity and later copper. Not sure if they do Prazipro. I had similar experience with multiple fish I bought from different sources and they died with same symptoms. Wasting away/not eating/heavy breathing and no visible signs of fluke/velvet or ich or redness/slime around gills. It could still be some other internal parasites which may not be affected by prazipro or bacterial/viral infection. Prazipro treats mostly worms, fluke and others parasites which are wormy. At this stage it may be too late to save the fish and you shouldn't put it in DT. from now on, my regiment for QT will be to feed my fish with hex shield pellets along with prazipro and ich shield pellets when I do my CP treatment just to be extra sure all parasites are treated for. It is a good idea to feed these pellets to fish once every few months or if you suspect if there is any parasite symptoms showing up. By the time the fish starts showing Ich or other sickness symptoms its usually too late. These pellets are safe in reef tank as long as your don't over feed the fish.

Hi, I got your box of Instant Ocean salt in the Raffle at fragfest yesterday. Thanks again for your give away! -Vish

Yes, I need to cut it to fit in the tunze pump.

I also used this under sink attachment so my waste RODI water goes to drain along with old saltwater from my tank, found this attachment to be very useful. I am using another mj1200 to pump out old saltwater using this attachment. https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Tech-DLA-D-Reverse-Osmosis-Universal/dp/B01N0EAAM8/ I am using a flow restrictor/siphon preventer and zip tied the pipes above the drain level to prevent mishaps. Will try to automate water changes using controller in the future using float switches.

Yes, these are food grade/BPA free and for drinking water storage.

Hi, I bought these containers for ATO and fresh saltwater mixing. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Desert-Patrol-6-Gal-Water-Jug/16537207 It fits perfectly into my aquarium stand without occupying much space. I cut the mouth/sprout off to make wider opening, installed the float valve switch for my RODI with auto shut off for my fresh water ATO and put the tunze osmolator pump inside the container. For saltwater mixing container I was able to drop of two mj1200 one as a pump and other as a powerhead to mix water along with Float valve switch for rodi water. Saves a ton of space in my stand and cheap compared to the 50-$100 ATO containers.

Thanks for this link. I returned mine which is very huge and 96w and ordered this one, it works great!!

Do any LFS give return on credit for a dead fish? Specifically for Fintastic there is no credit for a dead or sick fish once you buy it. The prices are so cheap that you should take up those risk/costs and cost of QT'ing. Not to compare vendors or vouch for any but I have recently been to reef escape and seeing their 2 week QT process, its very solid and nothing gets sold before it goes through their cycle. I know Marco's protocols are also set in stone.

Yes, I have been to the store and they have great collection of Fish and super cheap prices on everything including accessories, filter socks, frozen food etc. Only thing I want to mention though (which is universal) is that the fish are coming directly from the wild with little holding/QT so make sure you do a very good QT process and the fish may not be used to eating prepared food.

Thanks for sharing your experience and this article.

I just ordered this one on eBay: http://m.ebay.com/itm/90W-LED-Grow-Light-Panel-Red-Blue-For-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Plant-Grow-/181943641638?hash=item2a5cafa626%3Ag%3ABesAAOSw5UZY-Zym&_trkparms=pageci%253A433722f7-65a7-11e7-a72f-74dbd18079d9%257Cparentrq%253A2e020a3415d0ac8034bafb05fffb0394%257Ciid%253A4 Look at the brstv review on fugelights: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/brstv-investigates-what-is-the-best-refugium-light-and-what-is-coming-next/

thats unbelievably amazing.

Looks like its shorting the circuit by the melted solder. Its should be a simple fix with the right tools. Not sure if its will fix the Apex but worth a shot. What you got to loose? Let me know if you need some soldering tools, I bought the tools recently to kick start a project to build my own aquarium controller. Planning to connect 8 power sockets based on programming/timer logic which can be controller from web/mobile interface and a feed button. Pretty basic but plan to add PH, Temp and water flooding sensor soon.

will come tomorrow, hope some of them last.